Always depends on what you want the ball to do, and the innate ball design. I also had much of my equipment drilled strong - until I experimented with a ball pin above bridge as a special weapon for length and pop on dry or broken-down conditions.  For me (stroker, low speed, ~250 RPM, PAP 5"&1/8"^) this layout was stronger than expected, an nice and late angular hook from my Reaction Rip.
A friend of mine went even further and put on a Power Groove for a similar occasion the pin under(!) his middle finger - and on dry turf this ball is a beast!

I know that many professionals and semi-professionals put the pin in proximity to the bridge, and mostly it is for control reasons. A big hook from a leverage drilling will get you nowhere when you cannot control it, so these rather "mild" setups are, especially with people with a strong release and the strong balls/cores around, a must.

I guess you will need some strong layout due to your high speed, and that's why your SZ works pretty well on what I'd consider light conditions.
The Ambush will probably only move slightly with your style, maybe putting the pin at 4" right net to the ring finger and the CG in palm will give you a hook-set reaction that does not overhook but starts an early roll, so that this ball will overcome late lane conditions. The particle should be good for this purpose, too. The Scorchin is principally a stronger version of the SZ, but not much. Basically, I'd also set it up pin under ring and the CG at 45° from PAP for early roll - maybe you can have the pin closer to the bridge to delay its action, but I am not sure if this would fit with your high speed?

Just some ideas, hope it helps?
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DizzyFugu --- Reporting from Germany
Team "X": http://homepage.mac.com/timlinked/
"All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream..." - Edgar Allen Poe

pap 5 1/2 over and drilled pin under ring finger is probably 4 1/2 to pap area. So if you want it super strong flare wise go 3 3/8 or so, i tend to like 4 x 4 as my strongest stuff.I have one ball drilled at 3 3/8 just to see what it would do luckily the ball still goes pretty long for particle ball the dynothane pure energy.

JohnP is correct. MAny balls have an "innate" reaction setup. You will, for example, not have a solid medium+ load particle ball make a skid/flip reaction. It will probably always arc, no matter how you drill it.

I think best way of thinking about drilling is just what you want the ball to do on which condition. It is about how the ball depletes its energy, and this should fit the lane condition and the type of coverstock and core design. That's for example why I bought a Reaction Rip: it is a peral reactive with an (by today's standards) not overly aggressive coverstock, and with a tall core with a high RG and a medium differential. This ball is supposed to go rather long and snap on light conditions, saving more energy for the back end than a low RG ball. The drilling enhances these innate properties, and this is IMHO the best way to exploit a ball's potential the best way. That makes knowing equipment and what it is designed for important, as well as redaing the lanes and pulloing out an effective tool to conquer the current sitaution.

Just buying a ball, "drlling it strong" and hope for the best is... ineffective?

Good luck with your new balls!
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DizzyFugu --- Reporting from Germany
Team "X": http://homepage.mac.com/timlinked/
"All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream..." - Edgar Allen Poe