Old school urethanes either have a pancake, or if they have a core like the Blue Hammer, it is pretty mild by today's standards.

As xxxrevs describes, a label layout was 1st choice (CG in palm or 1/2" moved towards PAP for some side weight, pin - on the Faball Hammers these have the same color as the surface, beware - at 45° towards PAP from there), and an axis setup (with a balance hole) something for a more arcing curve.
Since most balls were in the 0-2" pin range, options were and are limited, too, and you will probably hardly see much effect of an exotic layout, since most of the balls movement actually comes from the surface prep and its friction on the lane.

I'd go for a strong label setup.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany

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I have found that a strong layout (3½" pin to pap with the CG out to create enough side weight to allow for a big balance hole) with a flare increasing x-holes is a good option when drilling old urethanes. I have an old Nitro set up this way and I get roughly 2" of flare. I have drilled 12 original Black Hammers with strong pins and flare increasing holes within the last 6 months. All costumers are very happy with the reaction they get. For most players even with low oil volumes by todays standards the old balls have a hard time reading the midlane properly if they don't flare. Should the ball hook too much just apply some polish.

Today's drilling theories work on the old urethane balls, the cores were just weak (low RG diff) and usually the pin and cg were very close.  And as has already been mentioned the pins match the ball so well that they can be hard to find.  As long as you can make the static weights legal you can use any of today's layouts.  --  JohnP

I got my Enforcer drilled up tonight! What a GEM purchased from pro shop guy. Check out the 1st 3 pics in the link below:

http://s318.photobucket.com/albums/mm427/thunder835/Track%20Equipment/
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Track PBA Regional Staff

http://s318.photobucket.com/albums/mm427/thunder835/Track%20Equipment/

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