After getting numurous balls drilled by my former driller I recently realized that his ball drilling was holding me back to some degree. He drilled basically everything the exact same. If I asked him how I should get something drilled he would just put the same drilling on it as every other ball unless I specifically asked for a different drilling.

Well the last ball I got drilled by him was a gamebreaker, which I asked for a label drilling just because I wanted something different. So when he drilled it up for some reason he put zero side weight on it. Which it seems he did on everything he drilled for me.

Now my question. It seems like the gamebreaker goes too long, even on a medium pattern. I am wondering if I plug the side weight hole which apparently was put in for no reason, will this cause the ball to start up earlier? If so, how much? I just seem to leave corner pins from getting behind the head pin.

I have also condsidered going to 600 grit or something as well but I would rather be able to get more versitility out of it for medium oil and be able to go to 4000 or even add polish when needed rather than be stuck at 1000 grit or lower.

I guess I will try adding a little surface to the ball then. I like that it is a tame drilling. That is actually what I wanted out of the ball but I just want it to check up like a foot earlier or so.

The thing i like with this drilling really kills any over/under issues. In the one house I bowl in this is my go to ball. It gives me more room due to it not wanting to be too jumpy off the dry but still getting a nice reaction through the oil. I just tend to get behind the head pin a fair amount with because it starts up a little late some nights.

Maybe I should take an abralon pad with me and add some surface during practice if it isn't checking up early enough. I just don't like sanding by hand, I feel like I might mess the ball up somehow.

The biggest influence on ball reaction is going to be the finish of the surface.  If the ball isn't starting up early enough, adjust the cover.  At 1000 grit abralon or even 500 grit abralon, the ball definitely should move.  

Has your Proshop ever measured your axis point?  This is an essential piece of knowledge, since no two people throw the ball exactly alike (a label layout for you will/should react differently that a label layout for me).  If not, I would look into finding a new shop.  The pin position relative to your axis point (not your grip) is the second largest influence on ball reaction.  As a side note, static weights (side, finger/thumb, top/bottom) essentially have no effect on ball reaction (and if your shop operator is telling you that they do, you should look for a new shop).

So definitely try to adjust the surface first... if that still doesn't work out, your next best bet would be to try a little earlier/stronger layout.

S^2
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Caught these from fast-forwarding through TIVO of MNF:

Describing the Adrian Peterson injury:
"He was coming through the line to make a move and got blindsided by Al . . . Wil- . . . Al . . . Jackson over there on the tackle"
and
"Alex Smith is learning three different offenses every year."
- Emmitt Smith 11/12/07
-Not only is he a poor commentator, but he fails to show basic knowledge of the English language- fire him!