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Author Topic: dual angle questions  (Read 7437 times)

militant02

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dual angle questions
« on: January 24, 2010, 09:06:35 AM »
i have a basic understanding about how to use the dual angle method to lay out a ball but i would like some opinions comments on how you view it.

1. i understand that smaller drill angles make a ball roll sooner and transition faster but is what angle do you see a hook/set reaction versus a continual reaction? i've used an angle as low as 35* for the first angle and it seems as though when i drilled a ball like that it got into a roll pretty quickly, made a move but would lay off on the backend. has anyone else had a similar experience?

2. the large the angle to the val gives a later, sharper reaction but what angle seems to work best for you and do you tend to have the pin under your fingers?

3. if i use ebonite's layout method 45* is the drilling that you use for a strong rolling ball while 75* is for a strong and angular reaction. does ebonite's guide seem to agree with the dual angle method? using the dual angle method a 70* angle is for a smoother rolling ball but that's ebonite's strongest reaction which seems contradictory to me. can anyone explain why ebonite's 75* angle react stronger?

 

DougS

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Re: dual angle questions
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2010, 05:35:07 PM »
On a league shot I prefer a 55 drilling angle by 4-1/2 with 40 val angle.  The pin placement is above the ring finger.  My ball speed is 15 on the cubica with a low rev rate.  I don't get as much backend with higher drilling angles and higher val numbers such as drillings with the pin below the fingers.  Most weight holes placement for league shots for me are on the axis and some balls with no weight hole. If you are setting up a ball for a sport shot then you need different considerations.

bowler001

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Re: dual angle questions
« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2010, 06:15:11 PM »
1. Not quite understanding your question here, but you are right that smaller drill angles create faster (i.e. earlier) transition. Your 35 degree drill angle is relatively low, so you WILL see the ball rev up sooner. As for the backend reaction, a large portion of that is based off of your VAL angle.

2. This is incorrect. A large angle to the VAL, will result in slower transition from hook to roll, therefore a much mellower backend. A smaller angle to the VAL will result in quicker transition on the back part of the lane, creating a more angular backend reaction. This is very easy to see in pin location. Small VAL angles will raise the pin higher, as big angles will push the pin down towards, and possibly below, your fingers.

3. I think you are simply getting drill angles and val angles confused here. I will not speak about Ebonites information, as I am not looking right at it and my answer would simply be an assumption. A 70 degree DRILL angle will create decent length, while a 70 degree VAL angle will provide a smoother reaction downlane.

Another factor not mentioned, but equally, if not more, important is pin to pap distance. This will determine the overall flare potential.

militant02

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Re: dual angle questions
« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2010, 06:46:26 PM »
bowler001, that''s why i was confused with question  #2. if you look at morich''s web site the sentence above his conclusion says that you will get a sharper reaction with a larger val angle but i remember most old timers saying that putting the pin under the fingers would smooth out the reaction at the breakpoint. if i understand correctly the difference between drill angles and val angles a drill angle are from your pap to the pin to the mass bias if your ball has one. val angles are from the pin to your pap to the distance that you place the pin from your pap. this is what confuses me about ebonite''s website because i don''t know if what they call a drill angle is the same thing that morich calls a drill angle.

here''s why i asked these questions. i have a virtual energy drilled 35*4*30 and while it does roll early sometimes it seems to hook set. i also have a one pearl drilled 50*4 1/2* 40 which works on most league shots but sometimes has a little trouble turning the corner enough to kick out the ten pin. like doug-s my ball speed is in the 15-16 mph on cubica but my rev rate it in the 325-340 range. i''m trying to figure out the smallest and largest that most people use successfully so that i can guesstimate what my range might be. i''m thinking that using a 60*4 1/2*40 for my drill angle might work better for league shots but i don''t want to go too far and make the reaction uncontrollable.

Edited on 1/25/2010 7:49 PM

bowler001

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Re: dual angle questions
« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2010, 09:06:22 PM »
As for what his website says...

"Larger drilling angles in relation to the angle to the VAL will create later, sharper breakpoints (more backend).
Smaller drilling angles in relation to the angle to the VAL will create a sooner, heavier roll (more midlane)."

Larger driling angles will allow the ball to retain more energy for downlane reaction. This is where the val angle comes into play, and the faster transitioning angles (aka the smaller angles) will take more advantage of that energy. But you can also pair these larger angles with medium to higher angles for a mellower backend.

stroked298

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Re: dual angle questions
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2010, 09:13:49 PM »
This is my problem with the dual angle layout. Its really simple and very east to use and to the common person it makes perfect sense.

Now i drilled 2 of the exact same balls. top weights were close and pin distance was exactly the same. First one was a 45 x 4 x 70, which to me would set up mid lane and be controlled on the back end. Second one was a 60 x 4.5 x 60. this would be said to have more length and a more angular back end, compared to the other. Well this is all true except only the second ball sets up sooner and is ten times stronger overall. This really is not the problem, problem lies in one of brunswicks books they say for maximum hook to drill ball at 45 x 4.5 x 70 so tell me how is that possible to be stronger than lets say a 30 x 4 x 30. they say it is morich says its not.

One more problem and this is my personal experience is all balls a drill with a total lower numbers i see more length, and higher numbers give me an earlier roll with the control on the backend. So for me the drill angle is backwords and the val angle is right. Plus some of my other customers are the same way and others are working jus like morich says it will.

So how is this how is it for some people the angles work like they say they should and for others its backwords. And yes im using it the correct way, i know how to use these tools so dont try to go there.

But take this for instance. Use the old pin by pap layout typically pin is 1.5 to 2.5 away from pap. using dual angle it ends up being around a 140 for the drill angle and a 75 for val. according to morichs system this should go long and be slower off the break point. Here is the thing this layout its weak of course but its more of an earlier hook it doesnt go long.

And here is another just like the classic label leverage layout, which is an earlier roll with a smoother backend. try it drill angle will be 90+ and val angle ill be close to 30. now you tell me how can a 90 degree drill angle set up in the midlane and how can a 30 degree val angle be a smoother transition.

Someone please explain this to me, and tell me how am i getting more hook out of high angle sums compared to lower ones.
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Doug Sterner

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Re: dual angle questions
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2010, 09:38:10 PM »
For the most part I see Mo's explanations holding true for mass bias balls. I do see some variation in them with symmetrical cored balls.

Also let's not forget the following:

The initial drilling angle determines how far down the lane the ball will hook (basically)...smaller angles rev up early, large angles rev up late.

Once that angle is chosen the amount of flare (pin to PAP) is chosen.

Now the VAL angle is completely relative to the other 2 components. If you want to see the difference in reaction based on VAL angle you need the initial drill angle and the pin to PAP to be IDENTICAL.

Let's not forget too that the placement and size of the balance hole will also matter.

On a different note....I have received the new layout information from Lane 1 and some of it seems to contradict Mo's findings.

We need an independent 3rd party to evaluate the contradictions using both company's equipment and report their findings.


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stroked298

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Re: dual angle questions
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2010, 10:04:30 PM »
i got the thing from lane 1. and lane 1's sheet lost me its way too much to have on one sheet, but yes from what they say and from what brunswick says its all backwords. Now i did have a guy who told me that you have to find your own number like a 95 use different angles that add up to a 95. that to me makes sense, i just really want a layout method that will work for everyone. It seems to me that things were alot less complicated when we were swinging arcs using pin buffers.
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bowler001

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Re: dual angle questions
« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2010, 12:58:40 PM »

Bluff

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Re: dual angle questions
« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2010, 09:18:04 PM »
Layout is Over rated like CG lol
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