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Author Topic: dry lanes  (Read 5901 times)

rizON300

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dry lanes
« on: July 09, 2006, 02:55:28 PM »
Can anyone give me some suggestions on a ball I can use on
dry lanes? (Or a certain drill pattern, or both ball and drill pattern) The house shot I bowl on is on short oil, and wood
lanes. The shot usually dries up after the first game, I
have a hard time getting the ball to the 1-3 pocket. I am
somewhat a high rev player, who does not generate a lot of ball speed
somewher around 14.5 to 15 mph.

any suggestions would be appriciated.
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dizzyfugu

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2006, 02:39:15 AM »
Brunswick Power Groove Dry/R, pin at least 4 1/2" from PAP, with lo speed and hi revs maybe up to 6"?
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dizzyfugu

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2006, 06:11:39 AM »
How's the surface on your Burgundy Pure Hammer? I have the older Black PH, polished, pin 1 1/2" above the bridge, but it hooks a lot for me on dry turf. Too much overall ball... I suppose it is the low RG in te core.
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chitown

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2006, 11:01:49 AM »
Hammer has a good dry lane ball in the vibe.  The desert heat is also a very good dry lane ball.  I have a desert heat.

I would just lay the ball out with your favorite layout.  I am from the camp that believes you could drill a 3 ball arsenal with the same layout and let the covers dictate the difference.
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Leftyhi-trak

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2006, 12:47:42 PM »
What do you use currently and how is it drilled? Two schools of thought on this some put long Pin to Pap's and drill the guts out or others drill a very short pin to pap letting it rev up early and ease on into the backend. Sometimes long pins still jump off the dry as thats when they read the pattern. Lots of good suggestions on balls but where your starting from equipment wise can make your decision much easier. Today there are soo many equipment choices to figure on.
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Re-Evolution

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2006, 04:05:46 PM »
quote:
Of course as we all know layouts are based on your PAP.  But typically a dry lane layout will have your pin above the bridge or just to the left of it.  If the pin is left of the bridge, it's usually a good idea to find your PAP so you make sure your pin is not more than 6 inches away from your PAP because that's the maximum legal distance you can have you pin away from the PAP.


Who told you that or where did you read it? There isn't a rule on pin placement, you can place it on your NAP if you so desire. Which is 13.5" from your PAP.
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JohnP

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2006, 04:07:03 PM »
quote:
it's usually a good idea to find your PAP so you make sure your pin is not more than 6 inches away from your PAP because that's the maximum legal distance you can have you pin away from the PAP.


There is no "maximum legal limit" on the distance your pin can be away from your PAP.  When you go beyond 6" you are nearing the point that your pin is in your track, but if that's what you want it's perfectly legal as long as the static weights are legal.  --  JohnP
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CG_Matters

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2006, 04:40:35 PM »
Desert Heat mapped at 4x3 (this puts the pin in the ring finger) has been the best dry lane combo I've had in years.
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TWOHAND834

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #8 on: July 11, 2006, 04:49:56 PM »
Slate Blue Gargoyle simply because it has a urethane cover to get down the lane alot easier than resin covers on short oil.  Plus, it has a good core for hitting power.  Perfect ball for the condition you are describing.
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El Capitán

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2006, 04:51:27 PM »
I second the Power Groove Dry/R. Very smooth ball - i used it for TOOOASTY lanes, and it was great.
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JohnP

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2006, 09:13:12 PM »
I have both the Slate Blue and the Dry/R.  I sanded the Slate Blue to 1500 grit and polished it with a 2000 grit polish.  The Dry/R is OOB.  The Slate Blue goes longer and breaks less than the Dry/R, if I'm lined up with the Slate Blue I have to move 3 boards left on the approach to line up with the Dry/R using the same target.  IMHO, the Slate Blue finishes stronger and hits harder.  Both are good balls, but the Slate Blue is my preference.  --  JohnP
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TWOHAND834

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2006, 09:20:20 PM »
Thanks for the clarification, John.  Granted there are some balls out there designed for drier conditions.  However....when a person says they are rev dominate (high revs with 15 mph ball speed), they need that extra help getting the ball down the lane.  With that combination of ball speed and revs, even a low end resin ball is going to want to hook quite a bit due to resin cover grabbing at the drier conditions.
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JohnP

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #12 on: July 12, 2006, 11:28:57 AM »
TWOHAND834 -- Isn't that what I said?  --  JohnP
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TWOHAND834

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2006, 08:58:05 PM »
Not with your style.  On short oil and you being rev dominate, the Slate Blue is going to give you the best look.  You need all the help you can find to get the ball down the lane.

Like JOHN P said....the Slate is the best choice.
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Jesse James

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Re: dry lanes
« Reply #14 on: July 16, 2006, 09:18:17 PM »
Man O' Man....what a plethora of options to choose from!!

I certainly hope the original poster is writing all this good info down. I also think it is rather difficult to give him really solid advice since he has no profile to look at.

Personally I like what LeftyHi-trak said. Use both. Some balls with long pin from PAPS, still hook quite a bit on dry lanes. That's when you pull out the shorter pin to PAP placement balls and let it soft arc into the pocket.
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