roger,
given your profile(lack of tilt) and depending on the ball chosen (i would stick with stronger asymmetrical's personally) and the lane surface...
i would say that a variation of the "flip richard" would certainly play well on longer patterns for you. i would keep the drilling angle larger than the val angle to encourage the ball to retain axis tilt longer and i would use pin placements closer to leverage. use balls will longer than normal pin to cg distances and keep the balance holes (if used) inside the val and south of your pap (p3 & p4 holes for those versed in gradient line theory).
(ll & dan)
i disagree with "hi pins go long". holes remove mass. removing mass increases the rg on the axis that the hole is drilled. if you remove mass from the top of the core (by drilling "lo pins"), you raise the rgs in the area where rgs are lowest, which decreases rg differential. less diff generally equals less track migration (flare). less flare equals less friction, yes? less friction equals a ball that skids farther before slowing down enough to change direction.
conversely, drilling with the pins up above the fingers raise the average rgs in areas of the core where the rgs are already higher, which increases diff. for a speed dominant player with low to average rotation, i'd take all the rg differential i can get. in rogers case, shading everthing else in the layout to encourage continuation once the ball slows down combined with the proper ball selection and surface prep, should give him a nice "driver" for the bag.
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good luck and good bowling.
