Author Topic: When cutting down a plug... (Read 4116 times)

novawagonmaster · « **on:** January 05, 2007, 12:31:44 PM »

Working on my first ball plug job (luckily it's my own!). Fingers and thumb were plugged a few days ago. I have a gil-mac with the large plug cutter bit. I cut the thumb down just fine. For the fingers, the area to be removed is larger than the plug cutter, so I figured I'd do half at a time. I did the right 1/2 first with no problem. I began to cut the left side, then it took a chunk out (the chunk was part ball plug and part ball!). Fortunately, it is a smallish chunk, so I can drill it out a little bit and re-plug. Before I try this again, what do you suppose happened? I was feeding the press down slowly by hand, so I know it's not a speed issue, and the cutter seems to be plenty sharp. Any ideas?

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Jon (in Ohio)
CHROME WON'T GET YOU HOME!
F.O.S. Proud Saw user...see profile.

backswing_aplenty · « **Reply #1 on:** January 05, 2007, 09:06:01 PM »

On an older jig I worked on, anytime you undid the clamp on the ball when you were cutting down plug you had to recheck that the plug cutter was zeroed. The clamp would makethe ball move a tiny little bit left to right so if you weren't careful you'd take a nice gouge out of the ball.

A more current jig that was well lubricated would vibrate and cause the pitch dial to move. The vibrations usually occurred when cutting down large finger plugs because you had to move the ball. So be careful when you move the ball, check and recheck that the plug cutter is zeroed when ever you undo your clamp.

*backswing
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To prove I'm real

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YeahHossNV · « **Reply #2 on:** January 05, 2007, 09:31:31 PM »

Backswing, he was saying that he was cutting the plug down and the plug chipped and took a chunk of the cover out, not that the pitch was off and he cut into the ball. But I do know what you mean about that jig and that one reason I absolutely loathe it.

Now to answer your question. There could be a bunch of things that caused this.

You tried to cut to quickly

The plu cutter wasn't perfectly centered over the plug.

The second half of the plug could have been too small and the stress caused by the plug cutter hitting it made it chip.

The ball was not fully secured and when the plug cutter hit the plug it caused the ball to move a little bit and when the it hit it again it tried to take too much plug in one cut.

It could also just be some variable in how the plug was mixed, cured or even how it bonded with the ball.
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"Brunswick fÃ¼r das Leben"
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Cute Bunny! copy bunny into sig to help him achieve world domination

novawagonmaster · « **Reply #3 on:** January 06, 2007, 06:19:57 PM »

Ok...based on what has been stated, I doubly screwed up!

Trimmed as much as I could on the first pass, which left a small piece to cut on the second pass.

Then, I am pretty sure the plug cutter was not centered over the small piece when I began cutting it down.

I'm not crazy about cutting plugs with this setup, as it IS difficult to tell when you are getting close to the ball's surface.

How much does a good router setup cost?
Since I already have a nice Porter Cable router, can I buy just the parts required to make it work on bowling balls?

Thanks for the help guys!
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Jon (in Ohio)
CHROME WON'T GET YOU HOME!
F.O.S. Proud Saw user...see profile.

BrunsNick · « **Reply #4 on:** January 06, 2007, 06:37:23 PM »

A good router setup would run about 100-200. We use a Craftsman router which was about 100-120, then the clear shield was about 50 more.

Router is so much less of a headache when setup correctly, just wear ear protection!
--------------------
Nick Smith ... A.K.A. Les Badderâ„¢
Brunswick -=- PBA 03-06
http://www.BrunsNick.com
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Â¡Viva la naciÃ³n de Brunswick!

Juggernaut · « **Reply #5 on:** January 06, 2007, 06:53:20 PM »

Do it like the old days. Before we got a router, we used a manual b a s t a r d rasp to work it almost all the way down, being careful not to hit the actual ball surface.

Then took a large file and finely worked it all the way down and finished it off with sandpaper and polish.

Lots of manual labor but very effective if you don't have the bucks for a router set-up.

P.S. We tried one of those plug cutters and NEVER DID get it to work right. Messed up about 5-6 balls and finally just gave up on the dang thing.
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"TOO SOON THE POWER, TOO LATE THE WISDOM"

sunsetlefty · « **Reply #6 on:** January 06, 2007, 07:03:59 PM »

novawagonmaster, I also use a Porter Cable router with a cup attachment for bowling balls. You can find them at www.Innovativebowling.com. These guys are great. You could e-mail or call them with your Porter Cable router model number, and verify that the cup attachment will fit OK.

If you want to see a picture of my Porter Cable router, PM me and I'll send it to you.

I hope that you like the Brunswick Custom-matic ball fitter......Gary

J_Mac · « **Reply #7 on:** January 06, 2007, 07:06:59 PM »

quote:
Do it like the old days. Before we got a router, we used a manual b a s t a r d rasp to work it almost all the way down, being careful not to hit the actual ball surface.

Then took a large file and finely worked it all the way down and finished it off with sandpaper and polish.

Lots of manual labor but very effective if you don't have the bucks for a router set-up.

Old days hmm? I fixed a few balls in my stay at a local alley and we finished the plugs with files even after cutting them down with the router.
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"A word to the wise ain't necessary -- it's the stupid ones that need the advice." Bill Cosby
"Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience."

Moon57 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 07, 2007, 06:55:41 AM »

Hi. The method I use is probably about as simple (cheap) as you can get. I put the spindle speed on my drill press as high as it will go. Chuck up a 4 flute 1/2" end mill bit, adjust the table so the the bit is about 1/16" away from the top of the ball. start the drill press and roll the ball around under the bit. I keep adding sheets of tablet paper ( .007 ) under the ball untill the bit is as close as I can get without touching the ball. I finish it off in the ball spinner. The plug comes out nice and smooth and the right radius. Plus the end mill works great for opening up cracked bridges.
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Dick
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So many questions, so little time but I'm having fun.

azguy · « **Reply #9 on:** January 07, 2007, 07:05:15 AM »

I started out with a cutter for the drill, never got the results I wanted, sold it. Use a router now and it's as easy as it gets, IMO. A couple passes and I'm done, just finish work on the spinner and it's ready to redrill/resurface or whatever the job was.

The one nice thing I like about the router, I change bits and work out any cut/gouge/crack on the ball to plug. No need for a bit size hole on a crack that is narrow or runs in a strange direction. It did take me a few "tests" to get it down to where I am satisfied with the work, but that's what that "POS" W/D is for, poor think looks like the moon with different colors on it.

As far as router shield fitting, one hole in mine was about 1/8" off, used a small hand bit to drill it out and it fits like a glove, no problems no cracks, easy to drill in, should that be needed.
--------------------
az guy aka: R & L Bowlers Pro
rlbowlerspro@cox.net
www.rlbowlerspro.com

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Author Topic: When cutting down a plug... (Read 4116 times)

novawagonmaster

When cutting down a plug...

backswing_aplenty

Re: When cutting down a plug...

YeahHossNV

Re: When cutting down a plug...

novawagonmaster

Re: When cutting down a plug...

BrunsNick

Re: When cutting down a plug...

Juggernaut

Re: When cutting down a plug...

sunsetlefty

Re: When cutting down a plug...

J_Mac

Re: When cutting down a plug...

Moon57

Re: When cutting down a plug...

azguy

Re: When cutting down a plug...