win a ball from Bowling.com
« previous next »
Pages: [1]

Author Topic: Would a "0" degree drilling work for me?  (Read 1769 times)

Juggernaut

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6498
  • Former good bowler, now 3 games a week house hack.
Would a "0" degree drilling work for me?
« on: January 30, 2009, 12:34:22 AM »
I have been having a lot of problems lately with balls over reacting to the dry areas. If I'm too close to the track the ball hooks early, but when I move in, it gets very skid/flip and is hard to control. By the time I get deep enough to hold the reaction, the ball hits weakly from a bad angle and doesn't carry for squat.

  What I was hoping for was being able to get a ball into the skid/flip area and have it skid/roll instead, that way I could belly it out into the drier track area and not get that harsh over reaction that I have been.
--------------------
Norm Duke was right

Good transactions list in my profile

My Bowl.com member page

Logged
Learn to laugh, and love, and smile, cause we’re only here for a little while.

 

JustRico

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2652
Re: Would a "0" degree drilling work for me?
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2009, 08:44:41 AM »
The only reason why I would suggest doing something more like a 20-30 degree PSA or mass bias alignment, as opposed to a 0 degree, would be taking a risk of not being precise and having the ball flare backwards or invert. It's like trying to place a pin in the PAP. If the PSA/mass bias or pin is within 1 to 1 1/2", it will suffice.

I would suggest going with a solid coverstock ball, depending on rev rate, drilling the pin 5 1/4-3/4" from PAP and going with a PSA/mass bias closer to your PAP. This will allow the ball to be cleaner through the fronts, so that surface can be used to play closer to the oil and away from the early burn and with the lower RG PSA/mass bias alignment will allow the ball to be smoother off the spot.

If a weight hole is needed, try and either place in the PAP to make legal or smooth out front to back or in the PSA/mass bias to make slightly stronger.
--------------------
Formerly BrunsRico
Logged
Co-author of BowlTec's END GAMES ~ A Bowler's COMPLETE Guide to Bowling; Head Games ~ the MENTAL approach to bowling (and sports) & (r)eVolve
...where knowledge creates striking results...
BowlTEc on facebook...www.iBowlTec.com

Juggernaut

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6498
  • Former good bowler, now 3 games a week house hack.
Re: Would a "0" degree drilling work for me?
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2009, 08:55:14 AM »
quote:
The only reason why I would suggest doing something more like a 20-30 degree PSA or mass bias alignment, as opposed to a 0 degree, would be taking a risk of not being precise and having the ball flare backwards or invert. It's like trying to place a pin in the PAP. If the PSA/mass bias or pin is within 1 to 1 1/2", it will suffice.

I would suggest going with a solid coverstock ball, depending on rev rate, drilling the pin 5 1/4-3/4" from PAP and going with a PSA/mass bias closer to your PAP. This will allow the ball to be cleaner through the fronts, so that surface can be used to play closer to the oil and away from the early burn and with the lower RG PSA/mass bias alignment will allow the ball to be smoother off the spot.

If a weight hole is needed, try and either place in the PAP to make legal or smooth out front to back or in the PSA/mass bias to make slightly stronger.
--------------------
Formerly BrunsRico


  Would you sugggest that I use a symmetric ball or an asymmetric ball to do this with?

  Also, if I used an asymetrical ball, what would be the influence of putting the pin closer to my pap ( 2 in. ) with the cg on the pap  and having the mb way past my val? ( using a shorter pin ball of 2 in. or less, with lower topweight, making it easier to drill out the excess sideweight )
--------------------
Norm Duke was right

Good transactions list in my profile

My Bowl.com member page



Edited on 1/30/2009 9:55 AM
Logged
Learn to laugh, and love, and smile, cause we’re only here for a little while.

JustRico

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2652
Re: Would a "0" degree drilling work for me?
« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2009, 09:24:16 AM »
For the first lay out I would use an asymmetric core. For a pin closer to the PAP, 2" or closer, I suggest a symmetrical core. When I use a pin close to the PAP, I generally use a weight hole similar distance on the opposite if the PAP. When using an asymmetrical core ball, placement of the weight hole might be dictated the CG instead of controlling or adjusting back reaction.
--------------------
Formerly BrunsRico
Logged
Co-author of BowlTec's END GAMES ~ A Bowler's COMPLETE Guide to Bowling; Head Games ~ the MENTAL approach to bowling (and sports) & (r)eVolve
...where knowledge creates striking results...
BowlTEc on facebook...www.iBowlTec.com

tenpinspro

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4161
Re: Would a "0" degree drilling work for me?
« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2009, 10:59:56 AM »
Hey Juggernaut,

FWIW, I helped a user here (Lanebed) a few years back in regards to a length and controlled layout as well.   His driller Kenny Hall in NY helped with his input and we came up with what he named the Leong-Hall layout.  This started out with Del Warren and then we picked up on the idea and ran with it.

On an aysm piece, we place the pin 1-2 inches from pap and we place it only one inch above mid line.  Then we also place the mb on the y-axis or centerline regardless of where it may end up per bowler's span.

This layout rolls very true and smooth and helped offset the wet/dry conditions pretty well.  Just thought I'd share...
--------------------
Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Tag Team Coaching - Co-Founder
"El" Presidente of the Legion

Logged
Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Co-Founder - Tag Team Coaching
"El" Presidente of the Legion
Pages: [1]
« previous next »