The other thing you have to worry about pin-down balls is whether it brings the track too close to your finger holes.
Before I started experimenting throwing with different axis tilts, I played as a high-track player almost exclusively. Now I can play anywhere from low-mid to very high.
When I'm high-tracking it, there are a couple of balls in my arsenal I can't throw (a L/L Yeah Baby and a Roto Grip Winning Streak) because of pin position. The Winning Streak in particular has a low pin to make it stand up and go into a roll earlier. If I'm not careful about how I throw that one, I'll track right across the the middle finger.
By comparison, pin over the ring allows me to do more things. My Cure has a pin about an inch over and an inch to the right of the ring, and I can almost lay that ball on its side. The ball also has more of a hockey-stick look to it.
Just by coincidence, I have an AMF Velocity that has the pin drilled out of the ring. We did that because we were trying to get the ball to go long/hook late, and were trying to do it on a short-pinned ball. Pin-to-pap distance dictated the location of the finger holes, which just happened to go through the pin. The problem I found with that particular ball is that I'm almost exclusively limited to a low-track release axis, because when I release any other way, the weight block pushes the ball through the breakpoint. It's drastically different in the reactions I get, therefore I've got to be careful about how I turn it loose. Lots of over-under if I'm not careful. Even putting a weight hole in the thumb quadrant didn't help much, although it did help the ball stand up a little sooner. But when I do hit it right, the ball is a tank on wheels.
In summary, simply saying "I want to drill out my pin" does nothing for you; it's all about where the pin is in relation to the other measurements and what you're wanting the ball to do.
Jess