Post by: captainhook on April 22, 2006, 05:38:33 AM
and kicking out the cg slightly pin approx 3-4"
this was suggested to me what is the purpose of drilling out the pin ??
my ball speed 16 - 17 mph
high rev rate 400 ++
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Post by: Tweener92 on April 22, 2006, 01:55:47 PM
Tim
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Post by: Roto-Mat on April 22, 2006, 03:32:35 PM
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Post by: JohnP on April 22, 2006, 09:12:01 PM
Post by: captainhook on April 22, 2006, 09:50:34 PM
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"THE ONE AND ORIGINAL CAPTAIN HOOK" NO IMITATIONS !!!
2002 MICHIGAN SCRATCH SINGLES CHAMPION
Post by: Mike Austin on April 23, 2006, 02:00:27 AM
Quote
Having the pin drilled out of your middle finger will not change the ball reaction compared to not having the pin drilled out.
This is not necessarily true. There are number of guys that use this, pin in the ring finger, cg out slightly, no extra hole. Enables players that come around the ball to get a hook/set or hook/stop type motion.
It doesn't hit very good for me, but have seen a few regional players use this with some success.
I agree with what Matt said about hooking back ends and such. This is a control drill, smooths out the back end motion, made the ball roll out for me, when I did it with a Track KO Punch a few years ago. Hit like a rotten tomato, never tried it again for myself, LOL!!!
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Post by: Greg T on April 23, 2006, 08:55:54 AM
quote:
The question though was does the act of drilling the pin out change the reaction. For most bowler the pin in the ring will be about 4 and 1/2" from the PAP, and kicking the cg pretty far out will put the mass about 3 inches from the PAP. This drilling will tend to make the ball want to hook/stop a little. The fact that the ring is drilled out doesn't change anything.
The further above the midline you place the pin the more the ball will want to push down the lane before making its move. So putting it above the ring will make it go a little longer than putting it in the ring.
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this is the correct answer.
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Post by: TheDude on April 24, 2006, 02:01:28 AM
I often have the better part of my gear with pins on my midline or on the negative side of the ball for more stable reactions.
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Post by: da Shiv on April 24, 2006, 10:29:05 AM
quote:
The further above the midline you place the pin the more the ball will want to push down the lane before making its move. So putting it above the ring will make it go a little longer than putting it in the ring.
I agree with this assessment as well.
I have an interesting perspective on this because of where my PAP is. The "up" coordinate of my PAP is 1 1/8. Because of that, if you put a quarter scale on a ball, and lined it up so that you could make a line that went right through the center of both finger holes, my PAP is practically right on that line. As a result, putting the pin on a ball either directly above or directly below the ring finger hole is the same distance from my PAP--just about 4 inches. Putting the pin IN the ring finger hole places it only slightly closer to my PAP, so for all intents and purposes, all three of those drillings are the same distance from my PAP.
I notice a distinct tendency toward earlier reaction on the lane from a drilling with the pin below my ring finger. This is a favorite pin position of mine. Putting the pin above my ring finger tends to make a ball push a bit too much for me, even though it's the same distance from PAP as when it's below my ring finger. Occasionally, I'm afraid that placing a pin below my ring finger will make a ball want to react too soon, yet I'm afraid to put the pin above my ring finger because that position almost never works for me. On those occasions, I opt for putting the pin in the ring finger and get the desired result--a little more length than pin below, but a reaction I can control better than pin above. My Enriched Uranium has the pin in the ring finger. I notice no particular strangeness coming from having the pin in the ring finger hole. I imagine if you had a ball with a heavy flip block on top and you drilled the finger hole extra deep to take out a significant amount of core mass, you'd notice a difference, because you'd be lowering the RG of the core. I've never seen any particular reason to try something like that, so I'm guessing.
That's my story, anyway.
Shiv
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Post by: JessN16 on April 27, 2006, 01:27:56 AM
Before I started experimenting throwing with different axis tilts, I played as a high-track player almost exclusively. Now I can play anywhere from low-mid to very high.
When I'm high-tracking it, there are a couple of balls in my arsenal I can't throw (a L/L Yeah Baby and a Roto Grip Winning Streak) because of pin position. The Winning Streak in particular has a low pin to make it stand up and go into a roll earlier. If I'm not careful about how I throw that one, I'll track right across the the middle finger.
By comparison, pin over the ring allows me to do more things. My Cure has a pin about an inch over and an inch to the right of the ring, and I can almost lay that ball on its side. The ball also has more of a hockey-stick look to it.
Just by coincidence, I have an AMF Velocity that has the pin drilled out of the ring. We did that because we were trying to get the ball to go long/hook late, and were trying to do it on a short-pinned ball. Pin-to-pap distance dictated the location of the finger holes, which just happened to go through the pin. The problem I found with that particular ball is that I'm almost exclusively limited to a low-track release axis, because when I release any other way, the weight block pushes the ball through the breakpoint. It's drastically different in the reactions I get, therefore I've got to be careful about how I turn it loose. Lots of over-under if I'm not careful. Even putting a weight hole in the thumb quadrant didn't help much, although it did help the ball stand up a little sooner. But when I do hit it right, the ball is a tank on wheels.
In summary, simply saying "I want to drill out my pin" does nothing for you; it's all about where the pin is in relation to the other measurements and what you're wanting the ball to do.
Jess