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Author Topic: Drilling with no thumbhole  (Read 2157 times)

sprocket

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Drilling with no thumbhole
« on: September 25, 2004, 03:42:25 PM »
I throw no thumb and bought a used Reaction Arc which I had redrilled.  The ball has the pin 1 1/2" from the CG so it's a pin-in ball.  It ended up flaring over the finger holes.  I'm considering having it redrilled with no thumbhole.  The idea is that it will allow the pin to be moved up into a more safe zone where the track won't flare over the finger holes, but because it has no thumbhole it will not have excessive finger weight.
I read the rules on no thumb drilling and it says the ball cannot have more than 1 oz top weight with no thumbhole, and the center of the bridge is considered the center of the grip.
I'm not sure of the top weight in this ball but it is probably more than 3 oz.
So I have a few questions:
If the fingers are drilled directly through the CG and very deep will it still have too much topweight?  Should I consider having a third fingerhole added?

Can you have a balance hole with no thumbhole and if so where would you put it?  Right below the fingerholes???  Is the balance hole considered a thumbhole and therefore your part of your hand must cover it?

Would I be better off having a thumbhole put in?  If I do, how far can I move the pin on this ball without ending up with too much finger weight?

Thanks in advance for any responses,
sprocket

 

LuckyLefty

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Re: Drilling with no thumbhole
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2004, 03:20:52 AM »
The fingers can definitely be drilled deep enough to remove excess top weight.

9 to 10 inches deep should work!

REgards,

Luckylefty
It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

sprocket

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Re: Drilling with no thumbhole
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2004, 10:28:55 PM »
The reason is that because it is a pin-in ball there may be more drilling options for pin placement without a thumbhole.  With a thumbhole the pin can only be moved up so far because the CG is moving with it.  Move it too far and it has excess finger weight.  Don't move it enough and the ball rolls over the finger holes.
I think it should be drilled with the pin right and slightly above the ring finger with the finger holes drilled through the CG or slightly left of the CG.
The question remains:  Can the fingerholes be drilled deep enough to remove the excess topweight?

T-GOD

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Re: Drilling with no thumbhole
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2004, 04:15:35 PM »
You can drill the holes deep, but I think 3 oz. top is a bit too much, because you'll be drilling out much of the top of the core.

I would go the route of adding a "fake" thumb hole. Drill the ball, fingers first, so that the pin is above or even with the fingers to avoid flaring.

Now you can drill a thumbhole in the ball, but it doesn't have to be very deep (an inch should do) or down very far like a normal span ball. All that has to happen is you palm must cover it. You should now be legal with your finger weight.

You can add a weight hole also if necessary or for leverage drillings and such.

You can have a balance hole with no thumbhole. In this case, you'll be using the center of your bridge for weighing up the ball. =:^D

sprocket

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Re: Drilling with no thumbhole
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2004, 03:50:17 PM »
The ball was drilled with the CG just right of the fingerholes and the pin about straight up from there.  The pin is around 4 1/2" from my PAP.  I must have been wrong about the top weight, it was actually pretty low.  It ended up with I think 3/4 oz top and some finger and side.  The holes weren't drilled very deep and no balance hole.  Of course no thumb either.
I'm not happy with the way it rolls.  It picks up a roll early and doesn't snap at all.  Unless I really play the oil it is a flat ten leaving machine.  I think it needs the surface shined up even more, like to 2000.
Thanks for all the suggestions.

sprocket

Strider

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Re: Drilling with no thumbhole
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2004, 09:37:04 PM »
No offense, but we are talking about a Reaction Arc.  The ball is made to roll early and even on heavy oil.  Sanding (Scotch Brite) much finer and a coat or two of your favorite polish may help.  Wanting an Arc to go long and flip is going against it's nature.
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