Author Topic: Dry tournament conditions (Read 4913 times)

dmonroe814 · « **on:** January 24, 2012, 02:40:47 AM »

My ball speed is about 14-15 mph. Revs about 350 (quite a bit of hand). The house we bowl in has the most oil of any of the other houses around. Most of the time in local leagues, I start with a polished Storm Nano. In tournaments in other houses, I have to start with a mid-performance (C-300 Outburst Polished) and go to a Brunswick avalanche pearl (uerathane). For the past few years, I have been going to a tournament in PA that is a very low volume, short oil pattern.

I am looking for some advise on a ball to handle those conditions. Should I go to a plastic with a strong core (Hammer Taboo Spare) or with a polished reactive with a weak core like the Columbia 300 Scout Reactive or the Storm Tropical Storm Yellow/Purple.

Will the Plastic carry as well as the reactive?

Will the Reactive over react on dry lanes?

nmbr1sun99 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 24, 2012, 11:14:41 AM »

I have usually gone to a ball that has the pin up or below the middle finger. This has worked for me on dry tournament conditions. For example, I have a SR2 with the pin up above the middle and a Sigma Tour with the pin below the middle. Both balls give me great length with a nice controllable move to the pocket.

300's - 8
800's - 2 (820, 834)
High Avg - 238
PBA Member
MOTIV Staff Member
In my bags (strongest to weakest):

- Motiv Raptor

- Motiv Cruel LE (C51)

- Motiv TR2 (Pin in palm)

- Motiv Primal Impulse

- Motiv Sigma Tour

- Motiv QZ2 Backdraft

- Motiv Sigma Tour (Negative Drill)

- Motiv QZ2
- Motiv TZ3
- Motiv RX1 (Recon - Orange)
- Motiv RX1 (Recon - Silver)

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spmcgivern · « **Reply #2 on:** January 24, 2012, 11:33:31 AM »

Depending on the shot, plastic may cause some issues with carry down, but if you move lanes, it may not matter. There is a difference between dry lanes at the beginning and dry lanes as the tournament progresses. I will always feel changing the hand position and having a weaker reactive/urethane is still better than plastic on most dry lanes. Perhaps something like the Storm Tropical Breeze instead of the Tropical Storm. More control at the breakpoint. Keep the pin far (5+ inches) from your PAP a high drilling angle will help get the ball down the lane (with proper surface of course).

But those with more knowledge of drilling balls should give you better information.

I am not a pro-bowler, but I do play one on BallReviews.com

Mr Straight Ball · « **Reply #3 on:** January 24, 2012, 11:54:28 AM »

Thankfully your rev rate is not high so that should help you with controlling a drier shot. What center in PA is giving you the blues by the way?

.

Maybe you could share with us your arsenal to give us a better look at the gap in your arsenal. From the three balls you suggested, the two reactive balls are going to be skid-flippish. If you're looking at a Storm ball, you're better off looking at a Tropical Breeze if you want a good piece for when the lanes break down

dmonroe814 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 24, 2012, 11:57:32 AM »

Thanks for your input. The conditions I am referring to are starting low volume and short.

The first benchmark ball I throw at my strike mark usually hits the 4 or 7 pin.

State tournament starts medium and is usually burnt by the end of the first set. (Only oiled once a day).

If we don't get the first squad, I really struggle. When I get left the 20-25 board, I have trouble carrying the corner.

The real problem is, I don't get much practice on short-light oil or burnt lanes.

From your comments, I gather you generally feel that a weaker reactive is better than strong plastic.

Am I correct?

spmcgivern wrote on 1/24/2012 12:33 PM:
Depending on the shot, plastic may cause some issues with carry down, but if you move lanes, it may not matter. There is a difference between dry lanes at the beginning and dry lanes as the tournament progresses. I will always feel changing the hand position and having a weaker reactive/urethane is still better than plastic on most dry lanes. Perhaps something like the Storm Tropical Breeze instead of the Tropical Storm. More control at the breakpoint. Keep the pin far (5+ inches) from your PAP a high drilling angle will help get the ball down the lane (with proper surface of course).

But those with more knowledge of drilling balls should give you better information.

I am not a pro-bowler, but I do play one on BallReviews.com

Old Man Still Learning

300's - 3

800's - 3

Hi Avg 218

Cur Ave 214

Former Stroker (Plastic and uerathane)

Tweener-Cranker (Reactive)

spmcgivern · « **Reply #5 on:** January 24, 2012, 12:10:18 PM »

My experience is plastic can save more energy than urethane, but can make the shot change more as the day progresses. Those are your typical options for dry conditions.

For me, if the shot is dry and short, you need to adjust your attack compared to THS conditions. You will usually have to move outside more and come up the back of the ball more. This will control the reaction of the ball as it leaves the oil and enters the drier portion of the lane. If the ball is too strong or you come around the ball too much, it will hook too much. This does take practice, but you can practice playing outside 1st arrow at any time as long as you don't keep score.

If the shot is dry as the tournament progresses, most people have success moving deep inside and playing that part of the lane. In this case, a ball that is considered somewhat flippy can be useful. Just realize you don't have to get the ball to the gutter to have success. This can lead to balls rolling out before it gets back to the pocket or reacting too soon. Sometimes the ball just needs to get to the right of the headpin before entering the pocket. This will save more of the energy of the ball.

As for particular balls, consult your pro-shop for recommendations for your style. They would have a better idea of what would work for you.

I am not a pro-bowler, but I do play one on BallReviews.com

dmonroe814 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 24, 2012, 12:57:43 PM »

Arsenal: c300 Blue dot, Brunswick Avalanche Perl, C300-Game Reactive Pearl, C300-Outburst Polished, C300 World Beater sanded 1000, Storm VG Nano 4000 Polished.

Problem Houses - Dutchman Boloney D/S 42 Ft 17.68ml oil. Really have to speed up the ball to get it down the lane. Had some success (250+) throwing Polished C300 Burst at 18mph. Couldn't keep up the speed and lost accuracy. Lots of pins sliding off spot. Like from the 6 to the 8 pin space without falling. Acts like a lot of oil on the Deck even though house says they clean the deck every night. Balls really start up early. I didn't have the avalanche last year. Plastic didn't carry very well, and I am afraid I will have the same problem with tthe avalanche.

Team House - Clearview Lanes. Unknown oil pattern. 30ft synthetic front end with 30 ft of wood back end. Ball immediately begins to turn left when it leaves the synthetic part of the lane. Had some success 1 game (230+) standing left gutter and throwing the ball at the 6 pin. Again, no real target to throw at, so no consistency.

Hoping the pearl Avalanche will fill the gap this year.

Mr Straight Ball wrote on 1/24/2012 12:54 PM:
Thankfully your rev rate is not high so that should help you with controlling a drier shot. What center in PA is giving you the blues by the way?

.

Maybe you could share with us your arsenal to give us a better look at the gap in your arsenal. From the three balls you suggested, the two reactive balls are going to be skid-flippish. If you're looking at a Storm ball, you're better off looking at a Tropical Breeze if you want a good piece for when the lanes break down

Old Man Still Learning

300's - 3

800's - 3

Hi Avg 218

Cur Ave 214

Former Stroker (Plastic and uerathane)

Tweener-Cranker (Reactive)

dmonroe814 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 24, 2012, 01:03:33 PM »

MrStraightBall recommended the Tropical Breeeze over the Tropical Storm. Ball reivews perfect score shows the Tropical Breeze at about 120 or the same as my Avalanche Pearl. The Tropical Storm is rated at 82 or the same as the Hammer taboo spare. Should I go with a reactive with the same potential as my uerathane or with a reactive with the same as a strong core plastic?

dmonroe814 wrote on 1/24/2012 1:57 PM:

Arsenal: c300 Blue dot, Brunswick Avalanche Perl, C300-Game Reactive Pearl, C300-Outburst Polished, C300 World Beater sanded 1000, Storm VG Nano 4000 Polished.

Problem Houses - Dutchman Boloney D/S 42 Ft 17.68ml oil. Really have to speed up the ball to get it down the lane. Had some success (250+) throwing Polished C300 Burst at 18mph. Couldn't keep up the speed and lost accuracy. Lots of pins sliding off spot. Like from the 6 to the 8 pin space without falling. Acts like a lot of oil on the Deck even though house says they clean the deck every night. Balls really start up early. I didn't have the avalanche last year. Plastic didn't carry very well, and I am afraid I will have the same problem with tthe avalanche.

Team House - Clearview Lanes. Unknown oil pattern. 30ft synthetic front end with 30 ft of wood back end. Ball immediately begins to turn left when it leaves the synthetic part of the lane. Had some success 1 game (230+) standing left gutter and throwing the ball at the 6 pin. Again, no real target to throw at, so no consistency.

Hoping the pearl Avalanche will fill the gap this year.

Mr Straight Ball wrote on 1/24/2012 12:54 PM:

Thankfully your rev rate is not high so that should help you with controlling a drier shot. What center in PA is giving you the blues by the way?

.

Maybe you could share with us your arsenal to give us a better look at the gap in your arsenal. From the three balls you suggested, the two reactive balls are going to be skid-flippish. If you're looking at a Storm ball, you're better off looking at a Tropical Breeze if you want a good piece for when the lanes break down

Old Man Still Learning

300's - 3

800's - 3

Hi Avg 218

Cur Ave 214

Former Stroker (Plastic and uerathane)

Tweener-Cranker (Reactive)

Old Man Still Learning

300's - 3

800's - 3

Hi Avg 218

Cur Ave 214

Former Stroker (Plastic and uerathane)

Tweener-Cranker (Reactive)

spmcgivern · « **Reply #8 on:** January 24, 2012, 01:58:28 PM »

I can't say I am well versed in the "perfect score" numbers. The Breeze should be a bit more ball than your Avalanche. I have the Avalanche and I scuffed it up a little with a worn 2000 abralon pad. It works great for me but I need to play straighter angles with it and throw it into the dry. The Game may be along the same lines as the Avalanche in terms of hook but I have not seen one of those in a while.

Clearview sounds like just a really short shot. Here I would play near the gutter with the polished Outburst first. If that is too much, then try the Game then move to the Avalanche. The goal is to have the ball leave the synthetic part of the lane outside of first arrow. This should be a starting point. Remember to stay behind the ball, trying to roll the ball end-over-end and adjust your hand accordingly if you need more rotation. You don't want the ball to jump left and staying behind the ball can help with this.

As for Dutchman, I am not sure what to tell you. When lanes are tight downlane, I generally want to have to ball rolling earlier into the end of the pattern instead of trying to have the ball recover at the end of the pattern. This may mean trying the same shot as at Clearview, getting the ball into a roll earlier.

I would definitely try to practice these and any other recommended shots before the tournament if you can. Or watch to see how others are being successful at these houses. I think trying to control the rotation you put on the ball will be the easier thing to work on right now. Ultimately, increasing your ball speed, if possible, to match your rev rate would be ideal.

I am not a pro-bowler, but I do play one on BallReviews.com

spmcgivern · « **Reply #9 on:** January 24, 2012, 02:00:21 PM »

Also, the Breeze will be a little more ball than your Avalanche. If you are able to practice at the two houses, you may realize what you have is plenty. But you do have a big jump in ball strength between the Game/Avalanche and the Outburst.

I am not a pro-bowler, but I do play one on BallReviews.com

Author Topic: Dry tournament conditions (Read 4913 times)

dmonroe814

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Mr Straight Ball

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