BallReviews
General Category => Drilling & Layouts => Topic started by: robert mushtare on October 15, 2004, 07:30:36 AM
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I was wanting some advice and info on setting up a plastic ball for a strike ball. I was thinking about shifting the static weights around to try and give it some pop or drive on the back when my other plastic ball is pinging corner pins. I have orange plastic ball with 3-1/4 oz of top weight that I am wanting to try this on. Any ideas on how to shift the lable and weight around to achieve this. I dont want to buy another xxxl buzzsaw neither so dont suggest it. Let me know what you guys think.
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every girl has it, some just flaunt it. Smelly cleavage
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lol I have been striking it up with my maxim for a week now buy a slate blue gargoyle

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Faster than a bullet
Terrifying scream
Enraged and full of anger
He's half man and half machine
Rides the metal monster
Breathing smoke and fire
Closing in with vengeance soaring high
www.JudasPriest.com
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put the cg under your ring finger half way to the center of your grip,..drill a 6" hole on the grip center line if the side weight exceeds 1 oz,.. back to legal. let 'er rip..
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www.dynothane.com
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Thanks jim. 6" over from grip line on midline and cg on line below ring finger half way between midline and finger. Is this correct?
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every girl has it, some just flaunt it. Smelly cleavage
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Also I guess I am trying to achieve 1x1 positive weights. finger and side. Do you think its possible that I may flair over x hole. I guess I could throw it and see how far i flair and see if I would hit the x hole or not.
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every girl has it, some just flaunt it. Smelly cleavage
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For a 2-piece like ball reaction, drill it leverage. End with 1/2 side and 3/4 bottom. Drill the fingers and thumb down deep to help remove top weight.
After drilling the grip, weigh the ball to determine where the extra hole needs to be to achieve the ending weights I've recommended. =:^D
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No matter what you do it is not going to be dynamic it only has a top weight puck. The most that could be done would place the label 3 3/8 from PAP but it still won't be dynamic. Ball dynamics cause flare and a standard pucked plastic is never going to flare.
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STORMIN1
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If you currently have an xxxl drilled strong, another plastic ball will not match it in reaction.
To get more action out of the orange plastic, I would shift the heavy spot (cg)about an inch+ to the right and up about half and inch from the center of the grip. (Assuming you are righthanded.) This would give you close to maximum side weight and some finger weight. This should give you some backend reaction. Moving the heavy spot hight may give you more backend. However, you hit oil it may keep on sliding and not move at all.
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I saw Ritchie Allen a few years back at the T-of-C throwing a severly dulled Spare Storm up 5 to win his match. I talked with the Storm Rep about it and I believe he hit it with a Red Scotch Brite pad!
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-Chris: DJ's Pro Shop : Auburn, MA
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quote:
No matter what you do it is not going to be dynamic it only has a top weight puck. The most that could be done would place the label 3 3/8 from PAP but it still won't be dynamic. Ball dynamics cause flare and a standard pucked plastic is never going to flare.
stormin,
This is not true. I have an 18 year old ebonite firebolt black that placed the final and ending cg at leverage. It only flares 3 1/2" to 4" depending on the friction available from the lane surface.
Ending cg and block placement can and will affect loss of axis tilt to affect shot shape in pancake blocks. It is what all us old timers did before the advent of 9 pound cores.
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two of nine
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And before you gripe that my flaring example is a 'pucked urethane ball, I have done similar things with Caramel white dots and yellow dots from back in the day.
3 Summers ago in a Sport trio my main set-up was a flaring '79 bleeder (2 1/2"-3" flare) and an axis balanced '81 wannabe bleeder (pencil thin track when I executed).
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two of nine
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quote:
quote:
No matter what you do it is not going to be dynamic it only has a top weight puck. The most that could be done would place the label 3 3/8 from PAP but it still won't be dynamic. Ball dynamics cause flare and a standard pucked plastic is never going to flare.
stormin,
This is not true. I have an 18 year old ebonite firebolt black that placed the final and ending cg at leverage. It only flares 3 1/2" to 4" depending on the friction available from the lane surface.
Ending cg and block placement can and will affect loss of axis tilt to affect shot shape in pancake blocks. It is what all us old timers did before the advent of 9 pound cores.
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two of nine
same here. I have a Black Angle Plus that i drilled leverage. It flares about 3".
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Rev-O
AKA "the MOD SQUAD" BR.com Moderator
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correct.
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www.dynothane.com
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Well I layed the ball out like MR.Ensminger advised and what a difference it made compared to my other ball. This ball had the dynamic flip that I was wanting. The first ball I threw with it blew the rack out and left a blower 9 pin and ended up shooting 275 -733 series the first night with it. This house shot is short with squeaky clean backends and little to no buff. This ball will help free up a spot in the bag.
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every girl has it, some just flaunt it. Smelly cleavage
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cc,..watch that MR. stuff,..people will think I'm old. Nice bowling..
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www.dynothane.com