I have been doing the pro shop work for the local bowling center for about a year now after retiring from a career in laboratory management.  I have also been a hobbyist woodworker for 20+ years.  I have developed several shop techniques (which others may or may not be using), and would like to share with other operators by opening this  thread for sharing tips.  I will kick it off with the following tip, and will share others if you are willing to share yours.

SMALL QUANTITIES OF PLUG MATERIAL:

Plug material comes as a two part epoxy with calibrated pumps.  The brand I use requires one pump of each, which the label on the bottle states to be 1 oz of resin to 1/3 oz of hardener.  That's great if you always need 1 1/3 oz of the final mixed plug material, but I find that often I need either a very small quantity to fix a gouge or crack (yes, I've tried the "quick-fix" materials, but have not had real good results) or need slightly more than 1 1/3 oz for a thumb hole or finger holes.  The important factor in mixing odd quantities is to use a ratio of 3 volumes of resin to 1 volume of hardener.  Go to WalMart and buy a set of metal measuring spoons for about $1 (or steal one from your wife's kitchen if you have the nerve).  There will be several spoons, ranging in size from 1/4 tsp to 1 tbs.  If you need a very small quantity, use three 1/4 tsp volumes of resin to one 1/4 tsp volume of hardener.  Mix carefully, because it is easy to get air entrainment with this small a quantity, and use as you would use any plug material.  For preparing quantities of mix between one pump of each and two pumps of each, use one pump of the resin, add three extra quantities (example, three 1 tsp quantities) of resin, then add your colors as usual.  When you add the hardener, use one pump plus one extra quantity (for our example, 1 tsp), then mix and use as always.  Wipe the measuring spoon clean with a paper towel before storing.

At the cost of the plug materials, this is a good money saver.  --  JohnP

I'm not sure if this counts as a tip or not, but here it goes anyways. whenever you just sell a ball (especially a plastic one cause they are most likely to be beginners) always ask if they need shoes or a bag, and if that doesn't work on them say that there's a discount if they do buy them since they are buying more. If you want to give them a discount on it, that is.  but don't say discount, say special, sounds better. and oh yes, if you can get the ball drilled quick, like in 8 mins or less. let them know because that encourages them from leaving the shop just to stay and wait for the ball to be drilled and it gives them more confidence in the pro shop's abilities. hmmmmm......... I'll think of some more tricks later. Don't let this die folks.

Don't you hate it when your drill bits get dull?  Sending them out, waiting on the job to be done and doing without them until they come back (unless you have invested in a spare set).  And the sharpener grinds so much off the bit that you can only get a few sharpenings before you have to replace the bit.  Try this:

HAND SHARPENING CARBIDE TIPPED DRILL BITS:

A regular sharpening stone will not sharpen carbide bits, so you have to use a diamond stone.  You can buy a Gerber pocket diamond sharpener at WalMart (about 3/8 inch of sharpening surface, they are with the knife display in sporting goods, but you may have to ask for them) for about $15 to try this tip, but a better investment is a two sided (coarse and fine, 1 inch x 4 inch sharpening surface or larger) tool.  Most woodworking web sites carry these, a link to the one I bought for about $30 delivered follows:  

http://www.woodessence.com/abrasivesdefault.html

To sharpen:  Examination of the tip of the bit reveals two cutting edges, one on each side of the center of the bit, that are formed by angled surfaces.  These are the edges to be sharpened.  DO NOT WHET THE SIDES OF THE BIT, THAT WILL CHANGE THE DIAMETER OF THE HOLE DRILLED.  Use your sharpener to whet the angled surface of the bit, then deburr by rubbing the flat back of the bit surface with the sharpener.  For a very dull bit, first use the coarse side, then follow with the fine side.  If you run your finger over the drill bit edge before you sharpen and occasionally as you sharpen, you will feel it getting sharper.  This procedure will not get a bit as sharp as sending it out to be ground, but it does get it plenty sharp to use and only takes about 10 minutes to sharpen a bit.  Be sure to maintain the angle that was ground into the bit at manufacture and try to whet about the same amount on both edges of the bit.  If you do this as soon as you notice your bit dulling, you can just use the fine side of the sharpener and it will only take about 5 minutes.  If you have any doubts about how to go about the sharpening procedure, find a bowler that is also a woodworker, show him this procedure and ask him to demonstrate for you.  Give him a discount on his next purchase for his trouble, or work out a deal for a permanent discount if he sharpens your bits for you.  --  JohnP