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Author Topic: Problems with drilling...  (Read 3917 times)

John D Davis

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Problems with drilling...
« on: January 18, 2007, 09:56:24 PM »
I need some help with this ball guys...I purchased a total inferno and have only had 2 balls in the past drilled like this that seem to work well....My last ball was the vapor zone and it worked great on it. Anyways what I mean by this is I had my pin put close to my track, I will try and give an example.

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 If this didnt come out right then the pin was up and to the left of my middle finger...Its possible maybe 3 inches from finger. and the CG is about an 1-1/2" from my fingers possible having some finger weight in it. My span is 4 and 1/8 and I have yet to weigh this ball but wanted some thoughts on why this ball wont flip over...


I am not sure how my finger weight and such it has in it but I am thinking that it might not have to much. Anyways I was wondering most of all can I put a weight hole in this layout and make it flip more and if so where...????
 I need everyones help on this cause I just spend 180$ and it wont do anything!
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Raven829

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2007, 06:01:33 AM »
If you are RH, then that is an incredibly weak pin position.  Your ball isn't flipping because it is not flaring enough.  A weight hole will probably not make much difference.  I won't say anything more because I don't know any of your stats such as PAP, rev rate, etc.  

Don
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John D Davis

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2007, 06:10:56 AM »
Raven that was the point of my first few tries with this layout... to decrease my flare and just see what the ball would do. My first ball was a black elite p43... It seem to get way down the lane and produce a nice amount of hook. Turned out to be sorta a benchmark ball if u would say. Anyways, this ball came out so good I thought I would dril my vapor zone like this. Needless to say, the vapor zone came out perfect!!! It would go farther down the lane than my other balls and turn circles around them as well. When I got on an easy shot, I could really get inside and wheel this thing. It picks up revs going down the lane and when it hits the dry it bounces hard!! So these 2 balls worked great like this and then this ball all of a sudden wont flip at all....
I think it might just have to do with the real aggressive coverstock. I feel like I might should have drilled a pearl ball like this instead of a solid...Any other suggestions would be greatly appriciated!
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John D Davis

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2007, 08:03:58 AM »
any other ideas???
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the pooh

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2007, 08:34:23 AM »
Just a note:The Total is pearl.
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the pooh
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YeahHossNV

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2007, 10:40:36 AM »
I would drill the middle finger deeper to give you some positive die weight and then put a weighthole on your axis and drill to about 3/4 negative side weight.

P.S. what surface is it at?
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Edited on 1/19/2007 11:40 AM
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John D Davis

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2007, 11:04:33 AM »
I might agree maybe making middle finger deeper... but putting hole in Pap? Not sure if thats a good idea or not. I thought weight holes in ur Pap made the ball roll more even, anyways, I def. dont want that... Any other suggestions that might help would be great, Thx
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YeahHossNV

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2007, 11:14:23 AM »
Here's the rule of thumb.

Pin Down with weight hole on axis = earlier and tamer

Pin up with weighthole on axis  = stronger backend with more continuation.

About how far apart are the flare rings?
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Strapper_Squared

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2007, 01:05:08 PM »
quote:
Just a note:The Total is pearl.
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the pooh


And the P43 was blue...


If the pin is in or close to your track, the you have a very long pin to PAP distance...maybe 6" to 6.5" or so...  Also with the pin way above your fingers, you are putting the core in the highest RG position possible.  This would be about as weak as you could possibly drill the ball...  with that being said, the cover is still the biggest influence on reaction.  From the factory the TI is rough buff which is ~ 1000 grit or 1500 grit equivalent???  Unless you have very clean/strong backends, you may need to use a little more surface to turn the corner.. or find a shorter/lighter oil shot to throw the ball on...

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Precision_fit

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2007, 12:18:39 AM »
I drilled 5 of these balls so far with 3 of them with roughly the same layout as described above (pins at 5,5, and 5 1/4 form their pap with the cg in their palm). Those three guys can through each others equipment. 2 of the balls were like duds, meaning they wouldnt hook even on the broken down patterns we bowl on(house shots) and the finger and side wieghts are all drilled to be zero (yes they are weak drilling but they have had weaker equipment drilled the same way and had the exact results they wanted). When I plugged the 2 and move the pin to a more aggressive position they hooked like the one that was not the dud. I tell ya, I dont know about these new Infernos from down south. They call it pearl but if doesnt look like any pearl I have drilled before, maybe I am wrong but arent pearl balls always shiny.
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Mike Austin

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2007, 12:43:49 AM »
quote:
I drilled 5 of these balls so far with 3 of them with roughly the same layout as described above (pins at 5,5, and 5 1/4 form their pap with the cg in their palm). Those three guys can through each others equipment. 2 of the balls were like duds, meaning they wouldnt hook even on the broken down patterns we bowl on(house shots) and the finger and side wieghts are all drilled to be zero (yes they are weak drilling but they have had weaker equipment drilled the same way and had the exact results they wanted). When I plugged the 2 and move the pin to a more aggressive position they hooked like the one that was not the dud. I tell ya, I dont know about these new Infernos from down south. They call it pearl but if doesnt look like any pearl I have drilled before, maybe I am wrong but arent pearl balls always shiny.


No, pearl balls are not always super shiny.  Brunswick is leaving the Total Inferno and some other balls with a slightly dullish surface because many bowlers/pro shop operators will eagerly shine a dull ball.  But, these same people will rarely dull or knock the shine off a shiny ball.  Brunswick would like people to see the wide range of ball reactions that you can get from one ball by just adjusting the surface.  This is true of any ball, not just Brunswick's.  The Total has some pearl added to it, and it feels like they have some particle in it too.  The ball will shine up, but you have to work it a little.  I buffed mine with a "dirty towel" from rough buffing other balls.  Gave it a "used" look, nice length, decent back end, but not really alot.  Hits really good.  I will try to do a review when I have thrown it more than 2-3 games.

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Precision_fit

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2007, 04:29:29 AM »
I stand corrected on the pearl issue, thank you Mr. Mike.
But can you tell me what the difference is between the Big Time and the Big Time Pearl. Is the Original Big Time a Pearl also, or a solid ball. An Ebonite rep told me to polish it and you have a pearl and if your dull the pearl you have a solid. Same ball same coverstock and core. Just a question I would like to have you elaborate on please.
Thank you,
Rick Justice
Precision Fit Pro Shop
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Precision_fit

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2007, 04:30:11 AM »
Precisionfitps2aol.com
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Precision_fit

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #13 on: January 22, 2007, 04:30:45 AM »
Oops  Precisionfitps@aol.com
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John D Davis

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Re: Problems with drilling...
« Reply #14 on: January 22, 2007, 07:11:11 AM »
Thanks for all your suggestion... I did however shine this ball up and it brought some life into this ball. I think it might hasve been burning up int the backend and was the reason for not hooking. I also used this ball on synthetics and it seemed to work much better. I think I will leave it the same and just use it when they seem to break down... you are right though it does take alot of work to get this ball real shiny. I think I might need to start with about 500, then 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and then 200 grit.... and then we would be talking!!!!

On that note with the side weight weiging zero, mine come out with about 1/4 oz. negative in it... I wonder if I could drill the middle finger deeper and it bring some positive weight to this ball???
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