BallReviews
General Category => Drilling & Layouts => Topic started by: JessN16 on June 21, 2006, 09:30:13 AM
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I'm also posting this in the Storm forum...
've owned a couple of pro-pin balls in the past and had good luck with them, so when I had the opportunity to buy a NIB pro-pin Paradigm pretty cheap, I took it.
Here's what came today -- the pin, RAD and CG are all in a straight line, and they measure like this: The pin is 6.5 inches above the RAD, and 11.5 inches (!) above the CG. If you were to think about this as a clock face, the pin is 12 o'clock, the CG is at 6 o'clock, and the RAD is the axis around which the hands turn.
Here's another visual: Turn the ball 90 degrees and then look at it from the side; the pin is about 9:30 and the CG is about 2:30, with the RAD about 12:30.
My preferred drill, due to where I track, is to drill the pin straight over the bridge about 1-2 inches up, with the CG dead center in the palm on a straight line down from the pin. On most assyms, the MB ends up somewhere southeast of the thumb hole.
On this ball, if I drill the pin over the bridge 1-2 inches, the thumb is going to come in right above the RAD, and the CG is going the be about 5 inches below that.
What I want to do with this ball is to have it not roll early, but also not to be uncontrolable at the breakpoint. I don't even know where to start with this layout, and I'm not even sure I can make this ball legal.
Anyone have any ideas?
Jess
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quote:
How much top weight?
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Its all about the coconut.
www.rpsbowling.com - Get a Grip
2.78 oz.
Jess
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If you haven't already, confirm the cg location and the amount of top weight. You might just have a ball with a mismarked cg. -- JohnP
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quote:
If you haven't already, confirm the cg location and the amount of top weight. You might just have a ball with a mismarked cg. -- JohnP
Assuming it's marked correctly, where would I go from there?
Jess
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...back to whoever you bought it from LOL.
If the C.G. is marked right...good luck with that ball. Let us know the huge crater of a weighthole you'll need to get all of that thumb/bottom weight out.
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-DP3
Respect the Game
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got a pic, i can't seem to wrap my head around this. but no ball is undrillable.
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Timothy @Juniors Pro-Shop
Staff Writer 7-10 Split Magazine,EGO Communications
Montreal, Quebec.
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quote:
got a pic, i can't seem to wrap my head around this. but no ball is undrillable.
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Timothy @Juniors Pro-Shop
Staff Writer 7-10 Split Magazine,EGO Communications
Montreal, Quebec.
I wish I could, but I literally can't get all three things in the shot together -- and may not even be able to get two of them in there together.
Here's my best graphic representation of it. Every "|" equals 1 inch.
PIN
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MASS BIAS
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CG
All three elements are in a straight line with each other.
Jess
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Turn the ball over. Measure 13.5" from the pin through the MB/CG to get an anti-pin. The MB will still be 6 3/4" from the anti-pin only now you'll have a 2" anti-pin instead of an 11 1/2" pin. Use the anti-pin as you would the pin on a more normal ball.
SH
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Shelly is correct. Transpose the pin 13 1/2" from the current location. You'll end with a 2" pin. Then drill the ball as you would normally using the new transposed/anti pin.
This is very easy to do by placing the edge/point of the quarter scale(not a Turbo 2-n-1, but the clear kind) on the pin. The opposite point of the quarter scale is the new "transposed/anti pin". =:^D
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Ah ok now I finally understand, and yes the solution is as shelly and T- god explained. Flip the ball over use the opposite side of the pin.
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Timothy @Juniors Pro-Shop
Staff Writer 7-10 Split Magazine,EGO Communications
Montreal, Quebec.
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quote:
Before you do that, I would still have the CG and Topweight checked in your local pro shop,
Agreed. It almost seems more likely that it's mismarked than that long.
SH
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Update time...
We drilled the ball pin up and over the ring about 2", at about 1:00. The RAD is directly next to the thumb and down just a smidge (about 3:30). The CG is under the thumb three or four inches down. There's a lunar crater-sized weight hole between the RAD and my PAP.
What we got was a ball that had a very smooth, predictable roll, without any read in the heads or very much read in the backend, either. The strength of this ball is in the midlane -- big-time midlane read, and the ball is fairly axis tilt-specific.
In other words, it doesn't act like you'd think a skid/snap Paradigm should act, but more like the original X-Factor for me, but with a stronger overall move. Hits very nicely and carries well, so far. I'll be throwing it a lot over the next few weeks and will post a thorough review after that.
Jess