If you're going to take the core out of play by drilling pin axis, why not get a super cheap ball like an old Scout?  Would a more modern (true two piece) core still hit better?  I guess the core is still rolling with a pin axis (not tumbling with a normal drilling) so maybe it would do better than a 3 piece type core?  It's the reactive resin that jumps off the dry, not the core, so I would guess (as No Revs00300 suggested) that any resin is still going to be longer and have more back end than a urethane.

Have you tried plastic?  Maybe you'd be further right of the urethane, only having to move a little during the night staying out of the carry down?
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Penn State Proud

Ron Clifton's Bowling Tip Archive

you can drill a ball to reduce flare as much as you want, but it still comes down to the cover and how it will respond to friction. Drilling a pin axis ball will get you close to urethane motion but even the weakest resin cover will spark more in the dry.
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"USBC is concerned that technology has overtaken player skill in determining success in the sport of bowling"

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Well...

I don't think it is your solution for starters...

But I remember Richie of Lane1 was a big proponent of this on Plastic!

However he has a lot of hand(no thumber) AND he also added a variation ...that being a weighthole 9 inches from Grip center at a was it 4:30 direction?  I think.

This gave it a little pop at the end!

I'm surprised a urethane doesn't work....and the problem is too much carrydown to carry(not enough backend implied)....and yet if not enough speed...too much backend it sounds like.

Sort of confusing..description really.

Do you have a pearl urethane?...Also how about a pearl urethane with a reaction enhancing weight hole?  Sounds goods.  If the ball is moving too soon and yet has too little backend?  Maybe?

My son has a Red Hammer....that is a nice ball(but I can't think of any pearl urethanes these days).

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS somewhere I have I have a blue pearl urethane in storage...never used by me but by someone else.


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It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

Something e did here for a guy with the exact same thing going on, was go "old school".

 Back in the urethane days, he used to shoot lights out with a two piece ball with the pin "IN", drilled what was called "block weight" ( pin and cg three inches from grip center on midline, x-hole three inches past that, also on midline), so we got an older reactive (CRUSH/R) with the pin "IN" and drilled it up that way. The pin & cg ended up about 2 inches from his pap and the x-hole brought it back to 3/4oz positive side.

 He just started using it a few weeks ago, and hasn't shot anything BIG with it (does have a couple of 650's though), but was still playing with the surface. He had it at 1000ab this week, and the ball was VERY urethanish.

 Swung out into the dry, it NEVER snapped, just arced and rolled. When pulled just a touch, it held. Thing is, it did seem to have that reactive POP when it hit the pins. And, like in the old days, it was just a matter of where to hit the dry breakpoint. He even said it was like bowling in a time warp from the 1980's. He could actually use the dry outsides, swinging out to it to get the ball to set harder. The further into the dry he threw it, the harder it arced and rolled, but like I said earlier, NEVER snapped.
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