Polish it and see what happens first.

Post your video on any hosting site (U-tube, for example), then post a link to it here.

3 1/2" pin to PAP should flare more than 5 1/2" unless you've added a flare increasing balance hole, I can't explain why yours flares more.

First try a higher grit surface, up to 4000, then try polish on top of that.  If neither works try a flare reducing hole.  Measure from the left side of your thumb hole 6 3/4" to the VAL.  Before drilling the hole stack 2 or 3 pieces of tape and throw the ball to be sure you're not going to flare into it.  Start with a small hole , say 5/8" x 2 1/2 - 3" deep, being sure to keep the static weights legal.  Increase the hole size in small increments until you get the flare you want.  --  JohnP

Thanks John.  My PSO drilled my pin down Hy Road and included a balance hole.  I'm not sure if it's a flair increasing, decreasing, or neutral.  I just know the pin up Hy Road gets farther down the lane and snaps a lot more than the pin down. Getting farther down the lane is what I need on game 3 when pin down doesn't make it across the lane to the breakpoint because it is breaking to early and rolling into the nose.  The pin up will make it all the way down to the breakpoint and then snap too hard into the nose.  Like I said I'm average speed around 16-17 mph.  Maybe I don't have enough power/speed for that ball in game 3.  But I ain't gonna try to increase speed and muscle it the way that ball is now.  Even worse results happen when I try to do that.

My PSO is a great bowler, coach, and driller so I trust the guy.  But I only get to see him on Friday's and this problem is bugging the hell out of me. So I had to join the forum and ask for help.  Just couldn't wait till Friday, lol.  Doesn't hurt to get a second opinion either.  When I see him on Friday I'll ask him what to do and compare notes with what your said. 

Getting accross the middle and farther down the lane in game 3 is why I suggested polish.  But  those adjustments don't cost anything.  I'll take the surface from 1k all the way up to 3k and even 4k before adding polish to find something that might work.  And then polish as a last resort.  And if all else fails get a weaker ball. 

Why is the universal response on this site to "add polish"? Hit with 3000 pad and keep going down until the ball slows down enough.

Stop making sense.

Thanks Jon, that simple explanation taught me something new.  If I would have known that I wouldn't have asked my PSO to drill it up that way because that isn't the reaction I was looking for when I bought this extra HyRoad. 

The pin down Hy Road works awesome for me.  As long as I throw it at least 80% correct it slams the pocket, plenty of forgiveness and plenty of carry.  I figured another HyRoad with a pin up drilling change would give me the option I was looking for.

I'll keep playing with the surface and probably a flair reducing hole to try and make it work.  If it doesn't I'll save it for another house with a different pattern.

Thanks Jon, that simple explanation taught me something new.  If I would have known that I wouldn't have asked my PSO to drill it up that way because that isn't the reaction I was looking for when I bought this extra HyRoad. 

The pin down Hy Road works awesome for me.  As long as I throw it at least 80% correct it slams the pocket, plenty of forgiveness and plenty of carry.  I figured another HyRoad with a pin up drilling change would give me the option I was looking for.

I'll keep playing with the surface and probably a flair reducing hole to try and make it work.  If it doesn't I'll save it for another house with a different pattern.

Before adding any weight hole (a drastic change), try a 4000 grit surface, then  3000 grit surface and see if that puts some control on the backend. Surfaces more easily be changed back to original, while a weight hole needs to be replugged.

Because of the difference that pin-up drillings have (smaller VAL angle) vs pin-down drillings (larger VAL angle), you have to be very careful about the pin-PAP distance you use for the pin up drilling.

5 1/2" pin-PAP is already a reduced differential and thus, a reduced flare drilling. I'm not sure how much more a reduced-flare weight hole can reduce the amount of flare in your case. The fact, that you said it flares a lot, makes me wonder if the pin-PAP distance is truly 5 1/2"

Move your feet left with the pin up hyroad and you'll be good