Author Topic: Is there one place to go for all the drilling info? (Read 29381 times)

mumzie · « **on:** December 21, 2003, 05:39:48 AM »

I get soooo confused - pin in or out cg in, or kicked. PAP, 4x8, etc.

Is there one place to go that would have all the info?

Pin in means blah. Causes the ball to do this...
Pin out means blah blah. Causes the ball to do that.
CG in means...
CG out means...
How to measure PAP?
Where to put a weight hole for different effects

And so on.
I can figure out that one layout does something different than another (duh), but when someone asks me how I want a ball laid out, I don't have a clue where to start.
When would I ask for a pin in ball? pin out? more top weight? less?

You get the idea.

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #16 on:** December 26, 2003, 04:08:47 PM »

OK, I'm going to sort of go a section at a time!

I think the first place to start is with weight blocks.
Note pictures don't tell all the story but they can tell a lot.
The hidden factors can be the density statistics particularly of the flip blocks.

Anyway lets start with a few core blocks.
OH, my plan is to go in this order.

1.Core blocks, 2.drillings for a certain reaction, 3.differences of right vs left balls. 4. Weightholes what I've found that works for me!

A picture can tell a story!

Here's two weightblocks at the extremes of reaction.

http://www.columbia300.com/gear/balls.cfm?bid=84

Yep the reaction rip, a king of high rg, skid flip, long down the lane big backend reaction.

http://www.bowlingballreviews.com/ball.asp?ballid=293

Yep, the Storm Tour Power, the ultimate benchmark ball, very low rg, virtually no flip block(same density flip block), moderate differential. You can try to drill this ball to go long and flip and it ain't gonna happen. It can't go long and it can't flip!

The two balls above are polar opposites.

The Rip has a tall skinny weight block with sharp edges, dense flip blocks on the top and bottom. Conceptually I think of these balls as very tall book stands. Tall with books on the top shelf, these balls are very unstable and want to tip and tip hard toward the pocket. If you've seen this ball on the alleys that's how it acts. Not much early rev, very little midlane and then a sharp strong move to the hole.

The Tour Power on the other hand has rounded edges, a flip block that is no more dense than center of the core and even when drilled stacked there is only one word to describe this weightblock movement is smooth. Not a jerk in site and you can't make one. This ball can be drilled straight up, just decide how many boards you want to cover and it will arc on anything and will love oiled heads and strong running backends. On carrydown it's going to probably wishing that you could carry the corners. You can't!

Another even more extreme weightblock is the weightblock from the Columbia Scout Reactive.

http://www.columbia300.com/gear/balls.cfm?bid=97

This ball has an even higher rg than the RIP and gets another few feet down the lanes and then flips like a banshee if dry to be found! This ball to get to roll early FUGHET ABOUT it!

Another in the LOW RG area but with some POP is for instance the Vortex 2 Particle.

http://www.bowlingballreviews.com/ball.asp?ballid=1411

This ball has every facet in a bowling ball to make it strong in every phase of the lane, very low rg, dense flip blocks, some sharp edges, some good strong differential, and a lot of coverstock bite.
This ball has it in every phase of the lane, heads mids and backend is strong and powerful in every phase of the lane.

One last one is sort of a medium ball.
Or should I say medium Core.

http://www.ballreviews.com/Reviews/Reviews.asp?ManufacterID=2&BallID=252

This is the core for the Raging Red Fuze. This ball has almost all the same attributes of a strong core as the Vortex Particle above. The only difference is that this ball has a higher rg. It revs just a little less in the heads than the Vortex II. Note these fuze cores were very similar all thru the Fuze line Fuze Detonator, this Fuze, Fuze Ignitor, Fuze Eliminator. The only difference between these cores were some densitie differences.
These core are classic medium low rg cores, with strong midlanes, sharp edges on the weightblock and strong backend.

Or as I call them, Churn em, burn em, turn em cores that will work on many of your wetter conditions particularly on synthetic lanes.

These are really the sets of cores to be familiar with.

OUR Extreme cores.
Super high RG:
--------------
1.Reaction Rip, high rg= little rev in heads, skinny body = very little
.....midlane, dense flip blocks = lots of flip to the hole.

2.Columbia Scout R , super rg = all skid in heads, no body = almost no midlane a straight line to the breakpoint really, and good diff and dense flip blocks = tons of flip. Your goal with this ball is to control break point, will it be soon enought to hit!

SUPER LOW RG:
-------------
3. Vortex Particle, super low rg = all rev in the heads, round body = tons of midlane, dense flip blocks and good differential = lots of strong angular movement at the back. This ball is strong in EVERY phase of ball movement.

4. Tour Power, super low rg = all rev in the heads, round body = tons of midlane, NO dense flip blocks and moderately low differential = only backend that the lane gives it. To summ this ball up, strong heads, strong midlane, SMMMMOOOOOOOOTHH backend. Try to find a way to drill to creat anything else with this ball!

Medium RG:

ALL Fuze balls except the Purple.

These balls have medium low rg, medium high differential, and angular edges. These balls churn in the medium heavy oil heads, start to burn in to the lane in the midlane, and good turn. Not in the top of the scale in any of these categories but on the stronger side of medium in every area.

One more example and this in the latest weightblock technology going.

http://www.ballreviews.com/Reviews/Reviews.asp?ManufacterID=11&BallID=394

Yep the X factor Deuce.

These balls have medium low rg, medium angularity in the core shape, and extremely high rg and medium mass bias due to the different density vertical pucks lieing next to each other.

These balls have good rev on medium heavy oil, good strong midlanes and backends that are out of this world and can generate a tremendous move even on carrydown on synthetic lanes. In general drillings on this ball will be normal and then a solution will have to be come up with to balance the backend potential to the bowlers style and plan of attack!

That's all for now!

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS take a look at the pictures and read the densities and look at the flip blocks and see if some of this makes sense to all.
PPS I note many of you will be right with me on this and maybe way ahead of me!

Edited on 12/26/2003 5:09 PM

baiki · « **Reply #17 on:** December 26, 2003, 05:26:32 PM »

LuckyLefty,

Interesting read. Thanks for taking the time and effort.

The "Columbia reaction rip"s core looks very much like Dynothane's bell core in their "Special EFX" and "Maximum Risk".

What have you found in the shape of the cores? What I meant is that some cores are so similiar in general outlinewise and the difference is only a few ripples in them.

Thanks again.

--------------------
baiki

"Faulty mechanics makes all balls bad." Bill Hall, BTM Dec. '98

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #18 on:** December 27, 2003, 12:36:14 PM »

Just took a quick cursory look at the information there and it looks voluminous!

I will get to it.

Anyway I've probably bored most to tears. Mine won't be that long, four or five total posts.

Oh, where did my information come from.
1. Revolutions 2
2. Mo Pinel See if, Feel it, Do It.
3. MoRich drill sheets.
4. Brunswick drilling sheets and Seven Popular drill layouts.
5. Gravity Balance system from Lane#1
6. Ebonite technical posts including weight hole item.
7. Core descriptions from www.bowlingballreviews.com
8. Denny Torgenson materials both purchased and read.
9. Mario of Rollrite UK, who uses a lot of Denny Torgenson concepts
10. Synthesis of all above by my pea brain.
11. Experiments on the lane and a very detailed sports eye.

Before I go any further I want to state I agree with much of what is in Revolutions 2 but I think that one must realize that at the time written Chip Zielke had primarily been with Brunswick and it is primarily an excellant compilation of Brunswick positions on drilling and theory.

What is below is my compilation of what I have found works and effects ball roll for me and from watching many other bowlers and their drillings.

Oh the question, why all that core stuff above!? Well I think it is important for a bowler to know if you have an extreme core, and if you do at one end of the spectrum are you? Or do you have a middle of the road type of core.

It is going to be important for one to understand that if they are at an extreme end of the spectrum. Which drillings and why are probably going to be good or bad for that ball.

For example The Vortex 2 particle above. This is an extreme ball.
Strongest coverstock, lowest rg, strong high differential with dense sharp edged flip blocks all leads to strength in all parts of the lane.
To place and early roll drilling and then add more flip with a weightblock may lead us to create a ball that can only be used once every two to three years!

The same with the opposite end of the spectrum Reaction Rip. To take this ball and drill it to go super long and flip might overemphasize the properties of this ball and get a skid flip reaction that always looks exciting but maybe might not match up very often to most lane conditions.

So onward to drilling configurations.

The most important spec in drilling is pin to pap distance!
The chart contained both in Revolutions 2 and in Mo Pinel's material is the following.
Pin to Pap distance.
0 no flare extremely early roll, lowest rg drilling
1 1/8 inch = 1/3 flare potential of the core early roll drilling
2 1/4 inch = 2/3 flare potential of the core EARLY roll drilling
3 3/8 inch = 100% of the core flare potentila, flare early mids and late.
4 1/2 inch = 2/3 flare potential of the core later on the lane than the 3 3/8.
5 5/8 inch = 1/3 flare potential of the core later on the lane than the 4 1/2.
6 3/4 inch = 0 flare potential but pin is in the initial track, this is the highest rg drilling.

To elaborate a little on the extremes above. Chip Zielke in Revolutions 2 gives a great example of a weight block being like a rolling pin.
a pin on pap drilling or a 0 pin to pap distance is much like taking your rolling pin(weight block) laying it completely on its side and rolling it accross the floor(or lane in this case). The ball rolls much easier as whatever the low rg of the ball is the statistic you are now using.

Your rolling pin looks like this.

xxxxxxxxxxx|---------------------------|
xxxxxxxxxxx|..................................|
xxxxxxx|.............................................|
xxxxxxxxxxx|..................................|
xxxxxxxxxxx|---------------------------|

Laying straight on its side. In the example of the Vortex 2 particle above if drilled like this the ball has an RG of 2.46 right now. It is using it's low RG or what is called it's X or horizontal coordinate. To measure the ability of the ball to roll. Also since the pin is completely stable there is no tendancy of the pin to migrate to a stable position therefore the flare is 0.

If we drill the Reaction Rip like this the ball will have an rg of 2.584.
Also with no flare potential.

Now lets say we stand both these cores, weight blocks, or rolling pins vertical balls up and place the pin 6 3/4 from the PAP. Now the weightblock is standing straight up. Vertical. The y coordinate or height now takes over. This ball will resist rolling compared to the other one with the rolling pin on its side.
After all the weight block is standing straight up.

The rolling pin looks like this.

....|
.|......|
.|......|
.|......|
.|......|
.|......|
.|......|
.|......|
.|......|
....|

In the examples given above The Vortex II particle is now rolling with an RG of
2.46 +.046 (differential,more on this later)= 2.506 rg. This is the highest rg drilling for this ball. Or the most resistant to rolling drilling for this ball.

For the reaction Rip this drilling will be 2.584. + .057 = 2.641.
This ball will resist rolling in comparison to it's low rg drilling of 2.584, it will also resist rolling quite a bit in relation to even the high rg drilling of the Vortex II particle.

As far as ability to roll the reaction rip when drilled staight up in the track, will have about the same rg as a scout reactive when drilled 0 pin to pap. In other words. A scout reactive when drilled 0 pin to pap will have an RG of 2.635 the Reaction Rip when drilled 6 3/4 will have an rg of 2.641.

One with the weightblock sideways, the other with the weightblock straight up!
Neither ball will flare! As there is no imbalance.

Now how do we create imbalance!

Well the easiest way is to create maximum imbalance!!! Let's put the pin about 1/2 of the way in between both stable positions.

3 3/8 from the PAP. This is 1/2 of the distance from stable on the PAP or 1/2 of the distance from stable in the track!

This ball when drilled like this is going to want to attempt to migrate towards stability!

(To be continued soon).

Lucky

Anyway

Edited on 12/27/2003 1:38 PM

Edited on 12/27/2003 1:39 PM

Edited on 12/27/2003 1:40 PM

Edited on 12/27/2003 1:41 PM

Edited on 12/27/2003 1:42 PM

Shifter · « **Reply #19 on:** December 27, 2003, 07:44:33 PM »

Cool!!!

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #20 on:** December 31, 2003, 06:39:17 AM »

So,

Now we've covered two aspects.

1.Cores, and what are the extremes of cores.

2. Weight blocks and possible pin positions. and two extreme pin positions both with no flare, pin on pap(earliest roll and lowest rg) and pin on track(latest roll and highest rg).

NOW common drilling techniques.

First move always is to select your pin position.

3 3/8 from the PAP is the strongest position for every ball and maximizes flare all the way down the lane. Because energy is being used in the early part of the lane this drilling may hook the most, but often doesn't appear it to the naked eye because the hook is ALL the way down the lane.

The MOST common pin position seen in most league conditions is either 4 or 4 1/2 inches from the PAP. This pin position works on most league conditons and is exciting to watch for most bowlers because it tends to give 2/3 of the flare potential of the ball but to preserve energy and flare to the later part of the lane!

So first I choose how many boards I want to cover. As a moderate handed person(about 15 revs and slower speed) it is rare that I use a 3 3/8 pin position.
It usually just covers too many boards and forces me to swing a lot of boards when often there is an easier way to play the lane, straighter up boards.
If I see most of the good players at a center only playing small swings at particular house I will usually go at least 3 3/4 or out to 4 1/2.
If I were a cranker I would use a different set of parameters say 4 1/4 out more to 5 3/4 for the typical house shot. If I were weaker handed these 3 3/8 drillings can work!

I'll come back to other pin positions in the next section but let's now talk about core orientation in relation to pin position.

Maximizing the weight block potential!
--------------------------------------

When a weightblock is straight up or stacked in relation to one's pap. This maximizes the movement potential of the core. In other words a 4 X 4 drilling for me, a 5 X 5 a 3 3/4 X 3 3/4 are going to give me all the motion a weightblock can give at the break point. A concept I use in my mind is that I have a bookcase. If the bookcase is straight up. And let's say it has a lot of differential or potential instability. Maybe I've made it tall with a very narrow base. Maybe I've added a loaded with books top shelf(flip block).
AN example above that fit's this description was the reaction rip weight block.

Tall, (high rg y axis(or height), small base(much lower low rg(or x axis), and a high differential(tall and thin base) with a loaded top shelf(dense flip block), what do I get just like a tall thin book case with books only in the top shelf I create a situation where the bookcase(weightblock) is very instable(wants to tip), and can fall a long way(tall and thin remember), and will(we've loaded only the top shelf. What one gets in this Reaction Rip, ball is a dramatic sharp and late movement at the breakpoint if we place the book shelf straight up! Take a moment and go look at the picture referenced above!

If on the other hand I take a lower and wider book case. Say the Tour Power from above and stack it. And let's say we load all the shelfs, this book case is much more balanced, much more stable and evenly loaded. This book shelf does not have a tendancy to tip, and when it does it is not as tall and will fall more gradually and not as dramatically. Even if we stack it, take advantage of all of it's potential it will only fall or turn very smoothly and evenly.

Therefore, weightblocks positioned in a 12 oclock orientation or as Denny Torgenson calls it 75 degrees(pap to pin and pin to cg(mass bias) angle.
These will give one the maximum reaction at the break point from any given weightblock. Other weightblocks to check out to see that will NOT give dramatic reactions at the breakpoint even when stacked are the Columbia Pulse's, note the thicker middle and lack of dense flip blocks.

http://www.bowlingballreviews.com/ballreview.asp?r=3934

Or the Dynothane Remedy(stronger than the pulse but more midlane than backend.
http://www.bowlingballreviews.com/ball.asp?ballid=39

Again see how weightblock shape determines shape on the lane.
Both of the above blocks are thick in the middle with not so prominent flip blocks. Both ball when drilled will have strongish midlanes and weaker backends, the Pulse even less than the Dynothane Remedy.

So anyway drilling a weightblock straight up give one all of the balls potential to what one would say come around the corner!!!! This means carry even from inside angles!

So a weightblock drilled straight up gives us all the ability of the ball to come around the corner or carry from inside!

WEightblock oriented like this.
12 Oclock

/ |
|
|
|
|
|
|

Now everything depends on the balls potential, in the examples given above it is easy to see how the Ability to come around the corner would be rated like this:
MOst to least:

Reaction Rip
Vortex II Particle
Dynothane Remedy (not a lot)
Tour Power(almost none)
Pulse(Virtually none except for the heaviest handed on flying backends).

None of this means a ball is BAD. It only means that one ball is a driver and another ball is a wedge. Each tool has it's place!

CORE POSITION # 2.
10:30.

10:30 12:00

a|a-a--a---a----a-----a------a----
This core position decreases the potential of the ball.

typical notation for this layout is something like 4 X 3, 4 X 2 1/2, 5 X 3 1/2.
First notation in a 4 X 3 say 4 is pin to pap distance, second say 3 is cg to PAP.

Having trouble illustrating 10:30 weightblock, to be continued!!!

Edited on 12/31/2003 7:39 AM

Edited on 12/31/2003 7:41 AM

Edited on 12/31/2003 7:43 AM

Edited on 12/31/2003 7:44 AM

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #21 on:** December 31, 2003, 10:52:27 AM »

I'm heading to all that, don't steal my punch lines yet!

It's taking me a little time but I'm getting there!

REgards,

Luckylefty

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #22 on:** January 07, 2004, 06:15:43 AM »

OK, Been crazy lately and have a little more time to put a little more here.

10:30 drilling For drawings coming later I designate this to be a CG towards PAP drilling.

Well don't seem to be able to easily dry a picture but this is a drilling where the cg is kicked out towards one's pap. In relation to the pin. Or a line from the bottom of the weightblock towards the pin points to 10:30 on a clock.

For the more elegant stylist amongst us(lefties) this drilling is called a 1:30.

The effect of all these drilling is to reduce potential! I like to think of it again with the bookcase example above as the bookcase is starting out already partially fallen. It it was a 6 shelf bookcase it now is only a 4shelf bookcase and cannot fall as far. In addition the weightblock instead of being straight up is laying on its side and is approaching being perpindicular to ones' track. NATURALLY this drilling will roll earlier than a stacked(even if pin position is the same pin to pap distance).

Therefore, two drillings with the same pin to pap say 4 1/4 and both on the same ball, the 10:30 drilling will rev sooner(weightblock is laying sideways), and move earlier and actually look like it rounds the corner earlier(it does), but then when it makes it final move it will just roll to the hole. The move is less angular to the hole than the stacked drilling. Called hook set!

This drilling is fantastic for lefties(heavier head oil with stronger backends often), fresh conditions(heavy head oil with strongish backends) and spinners and low trackers(to get the ball rolling earlier) not so skiddy which their action tends to cause. It is also good for bowlers with strong axis rotation if backends are strong enough. Another name for this drilling is hook set!

This type of drilling is usually garbage for up the back type players(rolls too early) and high trackers without a lot of axis rotation. Too much energy burn!

The problem with this drilling is carry or getting enough reaction.

Often one will be able to tell very quickly with this drilling whether it is going to carry or if it is going to leave weak corner pin leaves right away.
See that pin in the channel in front of your 10 pins righies? OR see the 4 pin in front of the 7 pin lefties. If you've got this ball, and you throw a couple of these in practice put this ball in the bag quick! You need a drilling that is going to get you higher on the head pin. You see the nature of the drilling because of the rolly backend or hook set action is to bring one in a little lighter on the headpin.

This is a drilling that has worked fantastic for me.

How to tell if it is going to win, er work!
--------------------------------------------

This ball setup I actually used in a great moment for me. Situation, big tournament, on the lanes with some of the biggest winners in our area. All with recent 800s and multitournament wins to boot. Condition wet heads and big fresh stripped backends.

All start hitting the pocket easy, I notice other bowlers getting either tremendous carry and then followed by a split, like a 4 9. Each has to move quickly even in practice and also throw hard to mute reaction at the back.

Grab this hook set ball and spend all day creaping up low on the head pin with tremendous mix. Light will carry all day when the backends are flying like this! Surrounding greats all bowl well but average about two splits a game using stacked and label drillings. Which are getting higher on the head pin.

SUMMARY on the 10:30 or 45 degree drilling.
-------------------------------------------

This drilling will go earlier and finish less than one's stacked drilling. It will finish lower on the head pin and the first sign of it taking out too much of the energy of your core is weak corner pin pinging. One can actually take and use this drilling all day and hit the pocket and never really carry and say, "What happened, I couldn't miss!".

VARIATIONS on a theme
---------------------

In general players with under 30 degrees axis rotation will not have much use for these drillings, they use up enough energy in the heads on their own and just usually can't carry with these drillings hardly at all!
The variation above called a 45degree driling. The more the cg out the less the degree. ie a cg out about 2 inches from stacked is called a 30 degree drilling then a 25 degree drilling then finally cg on the pin to pap drilling is called a 0 degeree drilling or axis leverage drilling. Each reduction in degree from stacked or what is called a 75 degree drilling is anincrease in the hook set effect. Making the ball roll and set earlier and finish with less less and less!

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS more to come.

Edited on 1/13/2004 7:58 AM

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #23 on:** January 09, 2004, 10:52:52 PM »

OK last basic drilling.

THE 1:30. Another term for this is the 90 degree or 105 degree drilling.
Also the 3 3/8 X 5 or label leverage. The cg to pin line for a righty points towards 1:30!. For a lefty this drilling is called the 10:30. Another term I will use in drawings is cg towards grip! That is in relation to a stacked drilling.

This drillings no 1 property is that it goes long before it makes it move.
The weightblock after all is almost parallel to the track or the bottom of it in a 105 is just about touching the track. Angles are measured pap to pin and pin to cg. The angle in between these two lines.

Again like the 10:30 the bookcase(er weightblock) has already partially fallen.
Thus having less potential to generate flare and potential reaction at the breakpoint in relation to the stacked drilling! But not much less! Just more length.

This drilling can be used by those with axis rotations less than 40 degrees a lot! And they are. Up the backers I know end up almost always using these drillings on most of their stuff! Frankly in Brunswick Drill sheets most of their drillings recommend(7 common drillings) placing the cg so that after drilling the ball will have 3/4 side weight and set the pin where one wants it to control flare. Voila some sort of label drilling! Then brunswick says
add a weighthole if reaction is not perfect that either increases or decreases reaction(or track flare in their lingo). More on weightholes coming up!

So anyway if you follow brunswick drill sheets a lot of your stuff will end up 1:30 or 90 or 105 degree drillings! Great! If that look works for you!

Now Brunswick has done a test with their prostaff where the cg area was covered with

Something and balls were thrown with the same pin position and the cg was stacked, 1:30'd(kicked towards the grip) and 10:30'd (kicked toward the pap away from the grip). Suppossedly the staff could see no difference and could not pick up the different cg positions and say "Oh yeah that is the 10:30".

Great if you want to believe this fine, drill all your stuff with the cg kicked towards your grip and if you are an up the backer you may do just fine!
But if you don't believe it! You may be able to tell (I don't). And a lot of other companies don't either.

Here is what my eyes see.
Below let's say is a Fuze Detonator(medium low rg, and medium high diff core)
with a pin to pap of 3 3/8 and three different cg positions.

-----------------------/
-------------------/ CG towards grip, 1:30 drilling for righty
---------------/ 10:30 for lefty
------------/
----------/
--------/
-------/.........../ 12:00 drilling or stacked drilling for both sides
------|........../
------|......../
------|....../
------|..../
------|../
------|/
------|............./ CG towards pap, 10:30 drilling for right, 1:30 for lefty
------|........./
------|...../
------|.../
------|./
------|./
------|/
------|
------|

Note each of these reactions are drawn to show only the place on the lane where the ball makes it's move. Note 10:30 the earliest, then 12:00 then 1:30 the latest. Notice there is a lot of total hook with this 3 3/8 pin to pap position and this moderately strong cored ball! Depending on oil conditions It seems to me that these breakpoints can vary by close to 3 feet.

Now I can see this. Many of the other companies agree with the above chart also!

Now how about a 5 inch pin to pap drilling? What's it look like on this same ball.

----------------/ CG towards grip, 1:30 drilling for right, 10:30 for lefty
-------------/
-----------/
----------/
---------/...../ Stacked or 12:00 for both
--------|...../
--------|.../
--------|../
--------|../
--------|/
--------|....../ CG towards pap, or 10:30 for righty, 1:30 for lefty
--------|..../
--------|../
--------|./
--------|/

The above chart shows almost the same thing. The 10:30 moves first,the 12:00 next and then the 1:30 is last. But what is different here is the total boards covered in the back. With a flare potential 2/3 of what they weightblock can produce we see a reduction in total boards covered in the back. Also there would usually be later start of the flare(see table above on pin positions)of these 5 inch pin to pap balls than with a 3 3/8 positioned pin to pap.

Note the 10:30 drilling because it starts earlier in lane will almost always look more rounded in its movement because it started earlier in the midlane!
The 12:00 looks earlier than the 1:30 but later than the 10:30.

As a result the 1:30 drilling can look real angular depending on HOW far it gets down the lane!

Now who can use these different drillings.

1:30 Up the backers(less than 40 degee, Perfect semi roller40 to 60 degrees.
12:00 all groups.
10:30 Perfect Semi roller, and the strong axis rotation player, 60 degrees plus!

Just a quick note. Low axis rotation 30 degrees and less players tend to get the ball rolling real quick. The end over end roll generated, makes the ball grab earlier in the heads. These players often minimize ball reaction.
Therefore if one went to a ball reaction chart. Ebonite's ball selector is the best I think, one would see if one enters for little side roll, often the solutions on the Ebontite site would be for their highest differential balls.
These can safely be purchased by the "Up the backer" bowler and high reaction drillings that go late can easily be used. Stacked and label leverage or the 1:30 as we call it for the righty!

High Axis rotation players 60 degrees axis rotation and up, lots of side roll.
These players often have a sharp breakpoint and a lot of skid! (I'm one of them). These players especially if slow(they often are) are ball reaction maximizers. Players with these specs and go to some of the ball reaction sites.
Say Ebonite. If one puts in 90 degree side roll the solution will often be there lower differential balls. This can work or balls where the driller slightly mutes the reaction.

Perfect 45 degree rollers, these players can make just about anytype of ball work and just about every drilling works too! Within the medium range of course.

Edited on 1/10/2004 0:10 AM

Tobe continued

Edited on 1/10/2004 0:13 AM

Edited on 1/13/2004 7:56 AM

R-Zitro · « **Reply #24 on:** January 10, 2004, 08:25:35 AM »

Hi Lefty I was reading your reply to mumzie,on a savage flip put a 45 deg drilling on it wet straight down 8 hook and set just like you showed and my low game last night was 235(I am right handed and w/ flat wrist cocked my hand to the left last night).I have that 1:30 pattern that you showed but I purchased a ball for heavy oil(Killer Instinct Sanded) since I come up the back and have a high track how could I drill this ball to play deeper 20-10, 20-15 I am a tweener so I know am limited have no idea how to drill it could you offer me some suggestion.

Borincano · « **Reply #25 on:** January 10, 2004, 02:34:38 PM »

LuckyLefty,

I have to give a high five to you. I am just into bowling for 10 months and have learned more about core and ball behavior in the writings that you have put in this topic. CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!

You manage to put it all in simple laymans terms so that any body can understand. These are things that a good coach should have and be a must in their coaching. This really decides what kind of bowling ball and layout the beginner must have.

One more item or topic that I will you, if can please write about, is finger and thumb pitches.

Once again THANKS!!!

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #26 on:** January 10, 2004, 05:35:25 PM »

Thanks for the nice comments. More to come! Just recharging my batteries.
I'm sure the slowness of the posting is not lending itself to reading.

I've written a lot about finger and thumb pitches right here in the drilling section. I'm trying to think of the best Search to find them.

Anyone remember or read any of that stuff?

REgards,

Luckylefty

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #27 on:** January 11, 2004, 01:12:43 AM »

OK,

A couple more basic concepts and then I'm going to sort of do a quick summary of where we are.

PIN IN. These balls with less than two inches of distance between the pin and the cg are just not very exciting! BORING! For whatever reason(in my mind I call the reason leverage) they just don't supply a lot of ooomph to the ball in the back! As a result they are more even in there moves and basically a little earlier in their move and shape than the same ball with a pin out of 3 inches or more!

Also they often don't supply the horsepower at the back on todays synthetic carrydown conditions to carry! Where they do Work great is often on fresher conditions where you want the ball to start up early and then hook SMOOTHLY on the back particularly where the backends are really fresh, dry and flying.

Many old time smart guys use these balls stacked instead of a 10:30 drilling to throw as what they call their benchmark ball on early leagues and other flying backend conditions.

PIN OUT

Now here's some excitement!. These balls with over 3 inches of pin to cg distance. When purchased in the same ball will often ratchet up the reaction at the back of the lane dramatically.

These balls are so exciting that they frequently can lead to bad scoring but very exciting looking reactions at the back.

Again the idea is just leverage! An example of this was a year or so ago!
A friend of mine purchased a Demolition Zone. Like me he is also a person that usually gets quite a bit of reaction out of bowling balls.
I told him that my Demolition Zone was a monster. His on the other hand for him was a complete dud he said. Just very even.

I looked and saw he had purchased one with a 1/2 inch pin out. Mine was a 3 inch pin out. Both drilled nearly the same except for this one factor.
Mine a monster his a Dud (for what he bought it for).
NOw truth be known under most circumstances I would never let someone sell me a 1/2 inch pin out ball but fact be known he didn't worry about stuff like this.

Pin in Pin out summary
Pin in balls of the same ball supply more control and less ability to turn the corner at the back. Pin out balls supply less control and more ability to turn the corner at the back!

NOW A QUICK SUMMARY to this point

Core shape Tall and Thin with dense flip blocks either at the bottom of core or both bottom and top supply built in instability, not much midlane and lots of sharp reaction at the breakpoint. Often these cores should be drilled to smooth reaction slightly. Example Reaction Rip.

Core shaper Thick and Round, these core shapes supply even heavy roll and smooth reaction all the way down the lane, to drill them to smooth reaction is a waste of time! They are already smooth. Examples are Tour Power and Columbia Pulse.

Core Shape Thick and Round but with very dense flip blocks on bottom or bottom and top! These balls start early, have lots of midlane but also lots of flip for a short barrel chested weightblock. Best example of this is the V2 Particle, sanded, and Pearl weight blocks. Others in this class are the Reaction Rev, and the Reaction Roll from Columbia. Lots of others in this class.

Drilling these weightblocks to start earlier, and to have lots of midlane is usually a waste of time, They already have it, and instead often makes these balls unusable on all but the most extreme oilly conditions. Often any drilling that emphasizes these properties is going to make a ball mostly unusable and often make these suckers just roll out somewhere between 30 to 45 feet unless you can find extreme oil in the heads and midlane. These conditions can be found and it's nice to know how to apply an extreme drilling on one of these extreme balls if you really need it! Needed about once every three years otherwise! A combo of extreme drilling and an extreme ball like this!

Flare control= pin to pap position
After one knows his weightblock and the surface the ball comes with ie, low hardness particle solid vs high hardness pearl reactive or plastic. Or somewhere in between.

One can decide what he is expecting from a ball! For example the Tour Power above. This ball is NOT going to flip. You can drill it for length and flip all day. As President Bush the 1st would so eloquently say, "NOT Gonna Do it".
It just "Ain't gonna Happen".

The only decision really to make is how many boards do you want it to cover and what surface do you want to give it.
You also might as well just go ahead and drill it stacked. (It's not going to flip!)
You will again use this guide.
Pin to PAP
0 = no flare early
1 1/8 = 1/3 flare early
2 1/4 = 2/3 flare early
3 3/8 = 100% of flare potential all the way down the lane
4 1/2 = 2/3 flare late
5 5/8 = 1/3 flare late
6 3/4 = 0 flare late!

In general just so you understand. A specialty ball like the tour power drilled stacked is going to act a lot like a more standard ball medium ball,
Oh say like a Red Fuze, of Fuze detonator, or a Messenger Ti drilled 10:30.
The lack of powerful flip blocks on the tour power supplies the smoothness no matter what. The 10:30 drilling on the more powerful balls supplies the smoothness.

Just determine how many boards you want to cover and where and pick your pin position from above.

The cranker is going to be in most cases in the 4 1/2 pin to pap and greater with a lot of his stuff drilled in the 5 inch pin to pap and greater.
His revs supply more flare than the medium rev and low rev player.

The medium rev player is most often going to be in the 3 inch pin to pap and greater pin to pap position, he is looking for the ball to supply hook power to him. Many of his pin positions are going to be coagulated around the 4 1/4 pin to pap position with extremes being 2 1/4 and 5 3/4.

The straighter player with low revs is going to have a lot of balls
all drilled right near the max 3 3/8 pin to pap. Looking to the ball to supply as much power to him as possible most of the time.

Drilling types basic

12:00
Straight up, or as some would call it 75 degrees(pap to pin, pin to cg angle).
This drilling maximizes the core potential of your core. The core is standing just like a bookcase as tall as it can and the base is as narrow as it gets.
You've maximized the core potential of this ball.

10:30
Weight block laid down. Core approaching perpendicular to your track. Also called 45 degrees by some. This weightblock position reminds me of those ads for senior citizen's in need of rescue. "Help me I've fallen and I can't get up". Instead in this case it is "Help me I've partially fallen, and I can't fall as far as I could when I stood straight up!"

You see the weight block is already partially down, and the base is now bigger meaning more stability, less jump at the back.
You've taken some of the potential out of the weightblock the manufacturer provided for you. This drilling is going to supply lots of midlane and less backend than using the weightblock straight up and all its built in potential.
Great! On some conditions. When you see weak 7 pins for the lefty or weak 10 pins for the righty. (4 pin or 6 pin in the channel in front of the corner pin) Put this pup away.
And it's friend the pin in ball who moves very similarly, put him away too. Not enough horsepower at the back! You are coming in light my friend!
These drillings can be super for world team challenge shots, pro tour shots, sport conditons any shot where the oil is definitely available in the front and one wants a muted reaction to the dry. You see many of these conditions designed to embarrass the league super star are only tough because there is little transition or buff at the back. The league superstar ball(often drilled straight up, or label) which is beautiful for league and has allowed him to shoot a few 800s this month. Now this ball on a protour or world team challenge shot jumps with all it's high testosterone power and results in some beautiful powerful looking high testosterone looking 160 and 170s. Every mistake is a split.

Whereas a not so super league superstar can walk in to these conditions, with a 10:30 drilled hook set ball and muted reaction himself to a few 220 t 230 games right with the pro tourists. How do I know, I've done it! Once bowled with a guy who had 845 the night before on one of his leagues. On a world team challenge shot and he had a 490 with the same ball! (Drilled label leverage). Hook set does the trick on these oily head flying backend conditions!

1:30 drillings.

These drillings lean the weightblock the other way.
"Help me I've fallen the other way partially and this means I can't fall as far as if I was standing straight up!"

Also theoretically a lessening of manufacturer supplied weight block potential.
But because this drilling put the weightblock just about dead parallel with the track. Length is great, and because length is great the reaction happening so late can be sharp. Especially for side release specialist who have 60 degree axis rotation and greater. These drillings can actually be longer and have quite extreme over under reactions with less midlane!

I'm one of these guys! Other more direct type throwers with axis rotations of 30 or 35 degrees and less can live on these drill patterns all day and all night! You see they need the length in order to have much reaction at all on the back. Perfect 45 degree throwers love these drillings also.

The 60 degree thrower typically only uses this drilling when the lane condition opens up and he wants to impress the woman he is with.!
He will often see ringing 7 pins, if lefty or ringing 10s if a righty from this drilling as he is getting down the lane too far before the break coming in with a wonderful high testosterone reaction that is just a little late to kick out the corner!

Oh lest me not forget the spinner or low track bowler. He has some of the similar properties of the higher axis rotation bowler. His ball gets too far down the lane often. What do you think often works for him! You got it 10:30 or any other drilling that starts the ball earlier!

OK I consider we are properly summarized to this point and will now start to pull it all together.

Sorry I'm not answering specific questions yet but I'm just sort of trying to get on a roll and finish this thing.

That's how my filing cabinent up top works!

REgards,

Luckylefty

Edited on 1/11/2004 2:49 AM

kalannar · « **Reply #28 on:** January 12, 2004, 11:53:03 AM »

Lucky,

I just checked some of my bookmarks for your stuff in the drilling section. I couldn't see half of it with my preferences set to 1 year. You may need to drag some of it back out again.

Kalannar

P.s. Thank you for all of the input you have on this site. I have to second that I have learned a lot from your posts. I am using what you have put up here in this section for thumb pitches and I am releasing the ball so much better with a lot tighter thumb hole. Thanks again.
--------------------
That which does not kill us strengthens us.

So do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons,
for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup!

T-GOD · « **Reply #29 on:** January 12, 2004, 12:34:14 PM »

Lucky, you've done a very good synopsys of bowling ball core and drillngs. My hats off to you..!! =:^D

p.s.

-----------------------/
-------------------/ 1:30 drilling (for right handers..?)
---------------/
------------/
----------/
--------/
-------/.........../ 12:00 drilling
------|........../
------|......../
------|....../
------|..../
------|../
------|/
------|............./ 10:30 drilling
------|........./
------|...../
------|.../
------|./
------|./
------|/
------|
------|

Is the 1:30 drilling a 10:30(pin out) drilling/reaction for a left hander shown to look like how it would be for a 1:30 drilling for a right hander. Or, is the 1:30 drilling a 1:30(CG out) drilling/reaction for a left hander..? =:^D

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #30 on:** January 12, 2004, 12:41:08 PM »

ooooooOOOOOOPPSSSSSS,

I was thinking elegant, left handed.

I keep forgetting there are more of you righties out there.

All diagrams were for lefties, and where I said 1:30 I meant cg back towards grip. Where I said 10:30 I meant cg out. And stacked!

Well then I drew left handed. That'll teach me to do stuff at 4:30 am.

I will redo pictures if some out there cannot "See" left handed!

REgards,

Luckylefty

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