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Author Topic: Straight as an arrow  (Read 6339 times)

alloutsmith3

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Straight as an arrow
« on: June 28, 2010, 05:49:59 AM »
If you were going to drill an entry level reactive ball for yourself to go as straight as possible how would you drill it. Would putting the pin on your axis or in your track be best or is there a better location. I'm talking about trying to make the ball go as straight as an arrow. I know this is generalized but I'm just looking for a generalized answer and opinions. Thanks
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Jason Smith
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laufaye

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Re: Straight as an arrow
« Reply #16 on: June 30, 2010, 10:02:33 PM »
To try to eliminate the influence of the core I would put the Pin 6 3/4 away from the PAP.

To eliminate the hook or change of direction totally, throw the ball with zero axis rotation.

The cover is the part touching the lane, the only friction point, least friction is plastic, zero axis rotation even with friction still not going to change direction.

So to answer your question, I'll suggest Pin on track.....but I don't think just that will do what you want.
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Neil Lau
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notsohotshot

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Re: Straight as an arrow
« Reply #17 on: July 01, 2010, 12:19:13 AM »
I found the Dry R to be a great ball to use for my spare ball and the ball will hook if the backends are dry enough or the whole lanes are torched. And right now since they have been discontinued rhey are as cheap as plastic with more hit at the pins. I have a few 15# ers left for sale I think if the poster is interested. Yhe ball has worked great for me for yrs now.
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alloutsmith3

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Re: Straight as an arrow
« Reply #18 on: July 01, 2010, 07:35:48 PM »
quote:
quote:
quote:
I drilled a Dry R label with side weight as close to zero as possible without placing a hole and it goes straight unless I crank on it or the lanes are extremely dry. This sounds like what the poster is looking for,to kill 2 birds with one ball. It works for me and I have been using the ball for close to 3 yrs now and have 1 in reserve.


This is exactly what I'm trying to do. Just looking for ideas on the best way to take the core out of play as much as possible.

It won't be a waste of a ball because I bowl on many different conditions and will be able to use it.
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Jason Smith


But Jason, do you know what the Dry/R ball was? The Power Groove Dry/R.
It had one of the weakest coverstocks ever put on a ball. For 99% of the people, it would go dead straight if you drilled it full leverage!!!
Not every ball will do that. Heck, not many balls will do that. DOuble heck, hardly any ball will do that!

Why test an old used ball and check it out first, before wasting money on a new ball???
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."


Yeah, I had a Dry/R for awhile drilled with a 4.5"-5" PTP and it made a great spare ball as well as a dry lane ball. Except for the major hook monsters I don't have too much of a problem getting a ball to go pretty straight. As well as I can hook just about anything. I've never drilled anything with such a weak drill and was curious how much hook potential could be taken out. Also thought about taking the surface to 2000 or 4000 plus polish. I appreciate the input and I think you had a good idea in getting a ball off the used forsale rack to play around with.
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Jason Smith
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