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Author Topic: girard layout  (Read 2864 times)

LotsaBalls

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girard layout
« on: October 12, 2009, 04:12:26 PM »
Does anyone have a link to this any help would be appreciated.

 

JustRico

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Re: girard layout
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2009, 06:13:41 AM »
The pin is approx an 1 1/2-2" below the thumb and 5 1/2-6" from the NAP.
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headwest

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LotsaBalls

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Re: girard layout
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2009, 11:08:45 AM »
How do you find the NAP, and thank you for the link.

JohnP

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Re: girard layout
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2009, 11:16:51 AM »
The NAP is directly on the other side of the ball from the PAP.  Set one of your quarter scale's 6 3/4" ends on the PAP.  The NAP will be at the other 6 3/4" end.  --  JohnP

LotsaBalls

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Re: girard layout
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2009, 11:41:25 AM »
from the pap through the center of grip

LuckyLefty

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Re: girard layout
« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2009, 11:42:51 AM »
Purpose of drilling?

I remember discussion forget purpose!

REgards,

Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

kidlost2000

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Re: girard layout
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2009, 03:37:30 PM »
I had a Brunswick Sapphire Zone drilled on this pattern. It was called The USA Pattern or Team USA Pattern back then. Rolled great for a longtime till I started to get around the side of the ball more then it began to flare the thumb hole. If I stayed behind the ball it rolled great.

It had a 3"-4" pin or so and you had to drill the thumb deep because of the cg location. My brother also had one drilled on a modified version of that pattern. It had a shorter pin so the cg was kicked right of the thumb some to distribute the weight and had a weight hole in the P3 P4  area of the ball. Just right of the thumb about 2 inches. Rolled great as well.
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JessN16

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Re: girard layout
« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2009, 05:47:13 PM »
quote:
Purpose of drilling?

I remember discussion forget purpose!

REgards,

Luckylefty
--------------------
Open the door...see what''s possible...and just walk right on through...that''s how easy success feels..


Great for people that can go straight through the front part of the lane. If I''m taking my tournament arsenal (7 balls), at least two will have this layout. For me, what it does depends greatly on the surface of the ball. I have three in my possession and they''re very different:

1) Columbia Reaction Roll -- Heavy particle load ball. Very good for when I run into heavy oil in the heads and/or when I want to play straight inside the oil line without the ball hitting flat.

2) AMF Nkryption Code (with heavy polish) -- Ball is great for a broken-down league shot where the track area is starting to make my other stuff check up too early. Whereas other balls are starting to hit flat, this ball doesn''t bleed off too much energy, therefore it is strong at the breakpoint.

3) AMF Bull Whip -- This ball is very mild anyway due to the older (and medium-mild) coverstock for its day. This is my ball-of-last-resort before going to plastic. Once the lanes are totally fried, I can go straight up 5 or even outside 5 with this ball.

The common thread here is that the ball is mostly ignoring the heads. How much it ignores depends on the surface. What the drilling does is make the ball flare "in reverse." By doing so, you take away some of the overall hook potential of the ball (which is not always a bad thing -- but also means you shouldn''t try to swing it as much, hence why you''ll see it most often for guys who go straight up front), but the trade-off for that is that you don''t have to try to swing the whole lane when they start breaking down. It''s a good pattern to mix in with your normal-drilled stuff, but I wouldn''t make an entire arsenal out of it.

The other thing it does -- as explained in the link someone provided above -- is change the way the ball rolls through the pins. For me, it elongates the hook phase and delays the roll phase. If you''re having problems carrying for whatever reason, this could be very beneficial to you. It will at least change your look.

You''ll need a ball with a long pin (3-4 inches is sometimes not enough) and I prefer ones with lower tops because otherwise, you might have to drill a crater weight hole, and given the big issue with this pattern is flare over the thumb hole, anytime you mess around with holes you could end up increasing the flare. I''ve also found the drilling instructions for this pattern to underestimate the amount of space below the thumb hole you''ll need to place the pin (in other words, I now add about a half-inch of extra distance between the thumb hole and pin to cut down on the flare-over risk).

Jess

Edited on 10/15/2009 5:49 PM

LuckyLefty

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Re: girard layout
« Reply #9 on: October 16, 2009, 06:44:45 AM »
Jess,

Thankyou for the detailed description and analysis on the different balls.

Very appreciated!

REgards,

Luckylefty
--------------------
Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana