I am at wits end.  I would appreciate ANY help/suggestions on dealing with a large over/under house shot.  I practice regularly on tougher shots for scratch tournaments, and bowl once a week on a men's league with a typical 10-10 China Wall.  I am constantly getting crushed by the big crankers crossing 25 boards and the fluffers playing straight up outside the oil. (With dull particle stuff no less)

     I've been bowling leagues for 35 years, am a high track (27" track, 6 1/4 PAP) stroker/tweener.  Approximately 250-340 RPM depending on hand/wrist position and ball speed.

     My biggest problem is dealing with the over/under.  My hooking equipment (Icon 300, Storm XXX Factor) is to soft at the pocket unless dead on with speed/lift (10 pins, rip rack 7's).  My dry equipment (Blue tour boss, Dynothane Crisis Pearl) over-reacts outside won't finish inside, and I don't have enough hand to bring it back from a deep inside-to-outside shot.

     I've always done well on honest conditions (BTM, ABC Nats, PBA Regionals, Sport Leagues) and would like to be able to score on this one condition.  The condition is consistent week to week.  I'd really appreciate an equipment and layout recommendation.  If it works, I'd be more than happy to spot you a nice steak dinner!

Thanks in advance....

Thanks for the reply Gordo, took a look at it, and that seems to be more of a stand-left, throw right and turn the heck out of it type of ball...  

     I'm more than willing to give that a shot (going to order one and see what it does) but was looking for something that was more in line with a "down and in" shot that I could play outside the oil.

     Any thoughts on leveraged urethane?  I'm almost tempted to drag my Angle out of the garage, but it has problems with carry-down.

     Thanks again!
--------------------
Dang, another stone 5....

Diehard, 27"track?? Anyway I have bowled on the condition you are describing. I would recommend a solid resin ball with 1-2" pin & top weight less than 3 oz. Stack the pin & cg about 1" from your axis. This will give you an earlier roll & will stop any sharp jump off the dry. With this layout, you should be able to catch a little of the oil & slight swing into the dry & back to the pocket. It should help compensate for the wet dry area. Hope it helps.
--------------------
Wayne
FOS HARD CORE MEMBER
Bomb Squad & Diamond Cutter

Thanks Manu and Sawuser, I'll give the Vendetta Pearl or Black a shot, sounds like it will fit my game better, Also, really like the Dynothane equipment, I have a Crisis Pearl, and have done well on the fresh house shot but it has a problem with mid-series carrydown...

Sorry about the 27" thing, that was diameter (still stuck in the 70's I guess),  diameter would be about 8.5", PAP 6 1/4 x 1/2" north.

Thanks again all for the input, I'll keep ya'll posted on how they work out.
--------------------
Dang, another stone 5....

If you can get one...an Ebonite OPTYX Illusion will KILL this shot. I have mine with the pin kicked at about an 11:00 drilling (remember I gotta drill my stuff lefty) and it is phenomenal on this type of condition. The other ball I use for stuff like this is an old Storm El Nino 2000 with AT LEAST 1000 games on it, and it is currently polished like a mirror! If you'd like a suggestion for current stuff though, I'd have to go with a Slate Blue Gargoyle...it's pearl urethane. Hope this helps...

Big Willy Style
--------------------
Just my $0.02; so take it for what the Foreign Exchange values it at!
"I was raised by a cup of coffee..."
***This message brought to you by the A.O.B.U.B.O.A. (Assembly Of Back-Up Bowlers Of America) which is now taking applications***  
Honorary Member of the F.O.S. (and also the best back-up bowler the Saws have ever had)!

Anybody use urethane or plastic on this shot? On my shot the oil is medium heavy inside 10 with carrydown, dry outside of that. Unplayable in the middle unless you have a good amount of revs.

Thanks diehardstroker. I pulled an old black hammer out of the garage. I plan on trying it Saturday. I also saw a guy selling the purple sumo on ebay, I might try one. My proshop guy has a power groove urethane he'll let go for cheap. I'll keep you posted. Let me know how it goes.

Again all, thanks for the help on this topic...  An update...

I got a MoRich Sahara, Drilled it 4x4 - one problem I had with this is the top weight, had to drill a fairly substantial balance hole and deep-drill the fingers to get the side/finger weight legal.  Might have take more out, see later comments.

First off, this ball does almost exactly what I want.  On a tracked out house shot (Sunday night, after 2 leagues) I could play anywhere outside the oil, even 2 board (a first for reactive).  Once I got the speed down (this ball is VERY speed sensitive) I hit the pocket over 30 times in a row....  strikes, 10's and 7's.  

The ball handles soft speed much better than oil or to much speed.  Tug the ball into the oil, you'll be looking at a bucket at best, tug with to much speed you'll have a washout.  Soft speed within +/- 2 boards of target resulted in high flush at worst, and it handled the tug a lot better than the pitch, which convinces me this ball will not over-react on the drys....  It also works great for spares, won't need to use plastic for 10 pins any more.

There's still almost an ounce of side left in it, I may drill that back a half or more to get it into a roll earlier so I can use more speed.  This ball should devastate the early games of the shift with fresh back ends.

Thanks again to all!  I post again after tomorrow night's league...

A note to ecco, tried the XXX sanded to 1000 with finesse, still over-reacts outside, going to sand it back down and stick it in the garage...  


--------------------
Dang, another stone 5....