The layout is not nearly as important as the ball, surface prep, and the bowler

Have good revs speed 14.5 mph pap. 5 over 3\4 up. Out of ideas to combat dry lanes.Tried Urethane inconsistent reaction. Anyone know what a label axis drill is?

Yes, we know what a label axis drrill is, but that is probably not what you need right now.

Yes, the previous two replies are accurate. What's your weakest resin ball before you tried urethane?

Anything greater or less than 3 3/8" from PAP (pin placement) should reduce flare.

Personally, I've used several balls drilled 2" pin to PAP for drier conditions with success.  The ball still moves, but is very controlled.  Just an idea if you haven't tried it yet.

Having said that, if you want to open up your angles very much (coast to coast, so to speak) you may need to put that ball away in favor of something drilled stronger and keep it polished. 

2" pin to pap hooks sooner and flattens out a little better for when the blackened are hooking.

If the problem is getting the ball down lane,  a weaker reactive ball with a 5.5" to 6" pin to pap and a flare reducing weight hole maybe another option.

If you have plastic try adding surface to it like 500/1000 or 500/2000 and see if that works.

this season in my second shift leagues, urethane is working out great. and the layout is important, but not so much compared to the cover.

I have a breeze, blue hammer, and a lane1 spare ball with a diamond core. I can use all three balls playing outside with the urethane giving me a lot more room for error. All the surface on these balls were adjusted to get the balls to read certain parts of the lane.
(I HATE THE 1500 GRIT ON THE BREEZE!!! I've owned 2 and both OOB covers were O/U!)

I pretty much use one pin to pap position, 4" pin to pan on most of my equipment. And for THS, I don't need no fancy/other layout's.