I'm looking for a layout suggestion for more forward roll on a heavy oil THS.

My stats are RH
15.8 MPH
350 RPM's
20* axis tilt

Layout will be a for a symmetrical ball with a strong cover and low rg core.

33/8 oin to pap. Higher Val 50-70 and cg positioned for a lower hole. Full flare

The 35 means nothing on a symetrical. Depends in where it positions the cg with your pap to position a weight hole . 4 inches to pap is full flare. 60 is continuous. I'm higher tilt I use that on some balls. Also depends on the ball you are thinking about.

I have a disturbed drilled 4 inch pin to pap, 60 Val with a p3 hole. Ball is rolly and continuous on heavy ths.

The 35 means nothing on a symetrical. Depends in where it positions the cg with your pap to position a weight hole . 4 inches to pap is full flare. 60 is continuous. I'm higher tilt I use that on some balls. Also depends on the ball you are thinking about.

I have a disturbed drilled 4 inch pin to pap, 60 Val with a p3 hole. Ball is rolly and continuous on heavy ths.

I've educated myself on the dual angle layouts and have the tools to layout my own balls, but can you enlighten me on the cg postion in reference to symmetrical balls. I thought that you just draw an imaginary line through the cg to substitute the PSA.

P.S. I don't drill my own equipment but I found it helpful to understand which layouts work best for me instead of just going in to the pro shop and just getting them drilled with no input.

What I was getting at is that in a symetrical ball the psa will be next to the thumb after drilling. So the drilling angle isn't a true drill angle like in an asymetrical ball. So really you are just positioning the cg to make statics correct. I always position mine if possible to allow for a low hole due to my tilt. I need the ball to flare and burn tilt
Looking at your post about the Moxie, looks like you are wanting a roller ball with a weaker cover than the moxie to keep it in play longer.

You are very correct in your assessment.  I have a another older ball with similar core specs to the Moxie that I am going to have drilled and polish the cover to still give me some length. This cover comes box finish at 1000 grit the Moxie is at 4000 grit but super strong. The ball is the AMF Mega Recovery still a strong ball in terms of overall hook. I have one drilled and polished at 65* x 3 1/2" x 35* and the back end is just incredible.......the deep angle makes it 10 pin city when it hits the dry. I guess my high tilt doesn't help it any. So I'm doing a little experiment with the same ball so I can get a real comparison. I had played around with the high val angle but didn't want it so high that it puts the pin below my fingers. So from my experimental layouts I can't go above 60* on the val unless I go below 35* on the DA. Sorry I know there is no real drill angle but that's the only way I can understand it not being a professional and all. Anyhow my driller always verifies my layout before he punches them up to make sure it will give me the look I want.

According to Blueprint; on a symmetrical; you just substitute the cg for the MB when determining dual angle layouts. 

http://blueprintbowling.com/Documents/Bowling%20Ball%20Track%20Flare%20Explained.pdf

Yes because the psa will swing to the thumb hole. The difference will be where the weight hole is(which will effect the psa).The cg position itself means nothing, it's the corresponding weight hole that makes the difference. The drill angle is positioning the cg. 

Thanks, I understand PSA on a symmetrical now. But explain to me the effect of pin to pap drillings with lengths greater than 4" on a symmetrical and what type of look you get from them.

Here is a drawing that tells all....Basically the further you are going from 4 inches the more you decrease flare and move the breakpoint down lane on a symetrical ball

Yeah I've studied that. But what I want to know is what type of look will that give you on the lane? I know flare gives you the snap and aggressive hook. But does the longer pin given less flare smooth out the hook thus giving you more roll? Thanks for all your help. Also do you think it's important for a bowler to know the information I have discussed in this thread? I spoke with another pro shop owner and he said no, actually he was pretty p.o.ed about it. But my driller is fine with it makes it easier for him to understand what look I want out of my equipment. For me it has helped me tremendously understanding the dynamics of my game and help me score better since my style is unconventional and I never learned bowling the traditional way. I tried for years to bowl for like what everyone else looked like and it just didn't work for me. It took all this research for me recognize my strengths and develop an arsenal to cater to my style. Finding my pap, speed, tilt and rev rate and a piece of tape helped me leaps and bounds more than anyone could ever know. Gone are the days of getting a ball drilled and hoping it will work. At least now I can pick the right ball for any lane condition according to my style.