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Author Topic: Some hand fit links  (Read 1997 times)

LuckyLefty

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Some hand fit links
« on: September 13, 2004, 05:58:15 AM »
I'm not sure if all are still good, but some nice people had asked me for them.

I swear PJR300 has all this in hardcopy and could repost.

Especially
"What Mo Pinel taught me about Bevel".

He and Bill Taylor are the Masters along with  Brian Omara on CLT drillings.

I am just someone who stayed up late at night and wrote down there ideas in ONE place.

Simply a vehicle for their big minds!

REgards,

Luckylefty

Oh, as to the question on hand fit I have these links where I've posted stuff (my interpertation of Bill Taylor's definitive book, "Fitting and Drilling".
http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=31018&ForumID=18&CategoryID=5
A very complete coverage called
"Musings on a Perfect fit"
http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=27477&ForumID=18&CategoryID=5
Beveling tips from Mo Pinel, very important
http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=16733&ForumID=18&CategoryID=5
Lateral thumb pitch and staying behind the ball
http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=21407&ForumID=18&CategoryID=5
That's all I got on grip!
I've gone back above and changed left the drawings for a LEFTHANDER.
Why? Because there is no border on right to make the drawing easy on right side of this format.
I've changed the notation on graphs to cg towards grip, stacked, and cg towards pap.
Hopefully that will improve things!


Hopefully some helpful info!
It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

 

stanski

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Re: Some hand fit links
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2004, 11:35:01 PM »
last two dont work for me also... says no replies within last 999 days

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stanski

LuckyLefty

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Re: Some hand fit links
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2004, 11:55:43 PM »
I thought not!

Awaiting another hard copy of these posts which I will post when received.

REgards,

Luckylefty
It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

livespive

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Re: Some hand fit links
« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2004, 10:01:10 AM »
IT's kind of a run on, as I copied it from a word document of mine.
I think these are the last two, or at least #3


LuckyLefty                Posted: 11/18/2002 6:33 AM      Many of you probably know this. I have a problem dragging the back of my thumb in the back of my ball.
Mo Pinel in the recent one on one help session with Del Warren beveled in the following manner.While ring finger only in ball, while pulling thumb in and out he beveled the front of the hole. While middle finger only in ball he moved thumb up and down and beveled side of hole(left for me as lefty, right for you righties) until thumb stopped dragging in back.Interesting, most of my drag happened when my middle finger only was in the ball and resulted in more side bevel than I usually use! Or more than my ball driller usually introduces! Note I've done some of my best bowling with tapered thumb holes which I believe introduce in a way more side and front pitch than you have drilled in your ball. Something this amount of side and front bevel does in a staight insert.It was amazing to watch the drag just go away as he added bevel until there was no drag!REgards,Luckylefty PS Maybe this will help someone else out there.

 

LuckyLefty                Posted: 11/20/2002 6:39 AM      T-God, I always noted your comments on Bevel, that you were for it. However, if I had a ball that was hanging I would go in to my ProShop and say it is hanging, the next thing I knew I was dropping it!HOW much bevel?????NOW I have the answer! I have already done several experiments.One I found my PERFECT FIT PITCHES for my hand via Bill Taylor. The problem is I get around the ball too much( but because pitches are so perfect, I don't need any bevel.)Next I selected pitches that I thought would encourage the more behind the ball delivery I wanted. (No way was this ball going to come off my hand).Now I applied the two part method above of adding front bevel while only having the ring finger in the ball and pulling the thumb out until it does not graze the back or hang at all. Then second step only having middle finger in I now add side bevel while pulling thumb out until it does not hang, constantly adding a little bevel.I notice that on many balls to get this free clearance on both surfaces that I will have a difference in the amount of bevel between the front and sides. I also notice that balls I have drilled with different thumb pitches require different amounts of bevel in the two different spots in order to release cleanly.Also I have added forward to a couple of balls and noted that with a moderate amount of bevel I could not get out. But by adding mostly front bevel(ring finger test) I could have a tremendous amount of holding power while releasing right when I wanted.My conclusion, Pitches do matter and Bevel must be coordinated with the pitches one selects and the anatomy of your hand.Bottom line the method to do this is easy, accurate and detailed above.REgards,LuckyleftyPS I truly believe I have now found the SECRET of the perfect thumb fit and this is it!!!PSS I believe my bowling results are going to skyrocket. I will post as I exit the funk zone!

 

LuckyLefty                Posted: 11/20/2002 8:30 AM      He shortened my span from the Bill Taylor recommended span. (To middle of stretched ring and then middle finger).But that was to accomodate some forward pitches in fingers where he wanted a certain effect on rotation.I have other balls with longer span that I was rubbing in back and I found I could stop the rubbing in back with the bevel adjustments detailed above.Note these longer spans are not stretched spans. However with this method no adjustment to the back of the thumbhole has been necessary NOW!Note I have a big knob from previous drillings and bevel combinations that is already going down with this new method of fitting(for me).REgards,LuckyleftyPS I think when my ball driller used to add bevel he would do it on both surfaces! Front and side. Often my front was already fine and I just needed a slight adjustment on the side. Voila bevel both when you only need on side results in DROPSEY! Now I know where to do it front or side or not at all! It can be done very gradually and then sand with 120 instead of 80 grit to control the smoothing process also.(It is slower).

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Eric T. Spivey, P.E.
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stanski

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Re: Some hand fit links
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2004, 05:29:59 PM »
ya i don't know how i get so many days, its kinda cool though since there are a million topics available in misciallaneous. Lucky lefty, when you are talking about more bevel, less bevel etc. I don't think i fully understand. Does this mean that it is at a greater angle to the hole, lesser angle, or that there is more surface on that angle? If that makes sense to you, can you please explain to me?
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stanski

LuckyLefty

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Re: Some hand fit links
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2004, 05:47:14 PM »
There are really three sets of bevelling motions undertaken.
1 in the whole or almost parallel to the hole surface.
2. At the top or more closely to parallel to the ball surface.
3. At a 45 degree angle to the ball.

A lot of it is feel and experience.

When doing the tests noted above one can feel if one is dragging in coming out to the whole because of not enough bevel on the 1 surface above.  Or the #3 surface.

Most of the beveling is done on surface 1 or 3.  

Then either hand sanding for the fanatic perfectionist finisher is done or hand sander machine.

The point of the word "More" in this case is the amount.  A surface that looks barely rounded compared to originally drilled is less and one that is all at a 45 and looks very rounded both in the ball and even on top surface of ball is "MORE".

Also one can bevel surface #1 only and for some rare people this is enough, but usually a sweep at the 45 degree or close to 45 degree is necessary too!

Again a lot of this depends on how much material one has between thumb and index finger(this regarding side bevel)(a lot of hanging skin and material means more exposed nerves, a little means nerves are more hidden and less bevel needed).  Also the amount of forward used in relation to tables will often require more bevel.

Ie you should have 1/8 reverse by the tables.  You don't use reverse in fingers and just move your thumb forward to 1/4 forward.  Very often one will have to dramatically increase front bevel to present front of thumb from getting bruised and causing nerve damage.  This for the same bowler that had little forward bevel at 1/8 reverse!!

Summary, an art blended with science!

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS actually a lot of fun!

Edited on 9/14/2004 5:41 PM
It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana