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Author Topic: Plug & re-drill the balance hole?  (Read 2468 times)

duvallite

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Plug & re-drill the balance hole?
« on: September 12, 2011, 08:40:21 AM »
Need some help.  I have a Rotogrip Nomad Solid that I'm thinking of moving the balance hole to try and get an earlier and sharper angle reaction out of it, but need some advice as to if this will do the trick and where to re-locate the hole to.  I've tried various surfaces and polishes, but it really only works good the way it is on drier conditions.  It's drilled appx. 3 1/8" stacked, pin beside the ring finger, and a balance hole on my PAP (4 1/2 > 1/4 up).  Can I get what I want by moving the balance hole to a stronger position, and where should it go?  Thanks. 



 

EFFEN 10

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Re: Plug & re-drill the balance hole?
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2011, 04:58:58 PM »
Ask your question here in the Ball and Layout forum:http://forum.bowlingchat.net/index.php

You will definitely get an answer.


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The more I practice,the luckier I get.

Strider

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Re: Plug & re-drill the balance hole?
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2011, 07:09:40 PM »
A P3 or P4 weight hole will get you more flare and more down lane reaction, but I don't know what will get you earlier and sharper.


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JustRico

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Re: Plug & re-drill the balance hole?
« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2011, 07:57:01 PM »
Things to understand when dealing with reaction and balance holes.

 

If a ball is laid out with close to maximum flare potential, i.e. close to leverage or 3 3/8" pin to PAP....a balance hole can only increase the flare so much until it can become unstable or over flare. Reaction is predicated by how stable or tight the bow tie stays.

With this being said....weight holes are used as such. Larger balance holes in diameter tend to create an earlier reaction. The deeper the hole the overall larger the reaction. A weight hole smaller in diameter tends to give a later reaction and lesser.

Placement of the weight hole also can adjust reaction. On the PAP generally does very little as the hole is starting off in the starting PAP. Moving the balance hole to different distances from the pin as well as along the true axis path can create different looks...again depending on already amount of created flare.

If you place a weight hole, on an asymmetrical core ball, anywhere 6 3/4" from the pin along the hemisphere, creates the strongest amount of asymmetry which generally can increase overall reaction as well as continuation. IMHO the strongest weight hole is one 6 3/4" from the pin and 3 3/8" from the PAP.

With all this being said....you want an earlier and sharper reaction...that is a contradiction. You can use a weight to do one or the other but not both IMHO. I would use a weight hole to do one or the other and then adjust the surface to create the other component.

I generally go with the rule of thumb that surface dictates length and the weight hole can control down lane motion.

Hope this helps answer your question

 


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