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Author Topic: Dry Lane drillings  (Read 2972 times)

TheProphet

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Dry Lane drillings
« on: May 04, 2008, 03:06:04 AM »
You guys know any good dry lane drillings? When I go further away from my PAP, the ball usually goes retarded on the backend. What are some drillings I can use to get the ball down the lane, but have a tamer backend.

 

FastTracker33

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Re: Dry Lane drillings
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2008, 11:11:41 AM »
I'll give you some advice, but i'm unsure of good dry lane drillings..

The further the pin is from your PAP WILL give it the most length, but you say the ball goes "retarded on the backend".. That is because although the ball is getting the most length with the pin further from your PAP, the ball is also storing up the most energy for the backend. That is why it goes "retarded" lol.

Also, another tip.. If you're bowling on serious dry lanes, there's no reactive ball that will work perfect. From what i've experienced, just buy a plastic ball. The Lane #1 XXXL would work great. I've bowled on a true dry lane, and all of my reactive equipment just over hooked. Plastic did work.

I hope this helped. I just don't know a good layout suggestion. Sorry!
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themagician

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Re: Dry Lane drillings
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2008, 11:24:13 AM »
The one thing I have found with reactives that can work is going very low with the pin. Say 5.5" from axis point but on the midline.
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charlest

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Re: Dry Lane drillings
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2008, 12:31:00 PM »
Just get a good dry lane ball,to begin with, and you can put the pin around 5", 5.5" from the PAP and not worry about it.

If the stock surface  is too strong, sand it to 4000 grit and polish. Use the backend-reducing polishes, if regular polish is not weak enough.

Forget about a special drilling. That's useful with strong cores or flexible cores, in general. If your ball has a strong core, it's not a dry lane ball.

Some good dry lanes balls: Neptune, Power Groove Dry/R, Blue/Green Centaur, STraight FLush (pancake core), Tornado warning (pancake core), Slate Blue Gargoyle (pearl urethane), Purple Rhino Pro. There's always some older ball on Ebay also.
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abrown

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Re: Dry Lane drillings
« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2008, 12:55:45 PM »
i have a negative drilling for dry lanes take something like a groove or something and put the pin above your fingers and the cg close to your flare i was sceptical at first but it lets me play a shot that i never could before with the lanes dry

T-GOD

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Re: Dry Lane drillings
« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2008, 01:21:39 PM »
You can try placing the pin near your track, i.e. 6 1/2" from your PAP. You'll also want to place the CG and/or MB roughly the same distance from your PAP as abrown has stated.

You can also try a pin axis with the ending CG on the pin/PAP. This will get the ball long with a smooth yet strong movement on the back. This is good for playing down the boards. If the oil is short and blended, you can play deeper and wheel it, just stay away from carrydown. =:^D

TheProphet

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Re: Dry Lane drillings
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2008, 04:21:58 PM »
Ric I'll try that.. I've tried Tornados and things like that and all I get is backend. I've had times where I had to loft the gutter with a Tornado.

micbowl

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Re: Dry Lane drillings
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2008, 11:22:28 PM »
Try drilling the pin 6 inch from the pap and the mb at zero degrees and the val a 40 degrees. This drilling will give you length and very smooth reaction in the back. It is recommended for low rg balls but I used this drilling on my Raid (high rg) and I get alot of length and a very tame backend. Here's the web site:http://bowlingknowledge.com/tips.html