win a ball from Bowling.com

Author Topic: Pro shop techniques and tips  (Read 7057 times)

JohnP

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5819
Pro shop techniques and tips
« on: January 21, 2004, 07:57:50 PM »
I have been doing the pro shop work for the local bowling center for about a year now after retiring from a career in laboratory management.  I have also been a hobbyist woodworker for 20+ years.  I have developed several shop techniques (which others may or may not be using), and would like to share with other operators by opening this  thread for sharing tips.  I will kick it off with the following tip, and will share others if you are willing to share yours.

SMALL QUANTITIES OF PLUG MATERIAL:

Plug material comes as a two part epoxy with calibrated pumps.  The brand I use requires one pump of each, which the label on the bottle states to be 1 oz of resin to 1/3 oz of hardener.  That's great if you always need 1 1/3 oz of the final mixed plug material, but I find that often I need either a very small quantity to fix a gouge or crack (yes, I've tried the "quick-fix" materials, but have not had real good results) or need slightly more than 1 1/3 oz for a thumb hole or finger holes.  The important factor in mixing odd quantities is to use a ratio of 3 volumes of resin to 1 volume of hardener.  Go to WalMart and buy a set of metal measuring spoons for about $1 (or steal one from your wife's kitchen if you have the nerve).  There will be several spoons, ranging in size from 1/4 tsp to 1 tbs.  If you need a very small quantity, use three 1/4 tsp volumes of resin to one 1/4 tsp volume of hardener.  Mix carefully, because it is easy to get air entrainment with this small a quantity, and use as you would use any plug material.  For preparing quantities of mix between one pump of each and two pumps of each, use one pump of the resin, add three extra quantities (example, three 1 tsp quantities) of resin, then add your colors as usual.  When you add the hardener, use one pump plus one extra quantity (for our example, 1 tsp), then mix and use as always.  Wipe the measuring spoon clean with a paper towel before storing.

At the cost of the plug materials, this is a good money saver.  --  JohnP

 

AMP750

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 333
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2004, 03:43:39 PM »
Hello
I like to use small ice cube trays and use that material for the base of the plug as it will melt and mix very well. The color in the hole being plugged makes no difference.

Hammer
If you knock down 10 pins always smile,no matter how they fell. An X on the 1st ball is 1 step closer to 300.

JohnP

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5819
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2004, 10:19:33 PM »
No one else has something to contribute?  --  JohnP

REVOLUTIONS PS

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 397
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2004, 06:49:39 PM »
I had someone show me this trick once but I'm not using it for whatever reason.  When using a thumb slug, drill the pilot hole and then don't remove the ball from the cup.  Crank the table over (if needed to make room) and squirt some glue along the inside of the hole, crank the table back to where it was and then using the drill press, pull down to insert the slug into the ball. then put the bit into the machine and drill the hole.  I think the point of all this is to ensure that the hole is in the center of the slug.  I personally don't have any problem with that but...that's one anyway.

agroves

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4939
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2004, 12:10:26 AM »
I got a good tip.  DON'T buy tenth frame vinyl thumb solids.  They are a pain the butt to drill.  If you do, go slow and let the glue dry longer than normal.  I had one spin on me the other day.  I prefer the Vise vinyl thumb solids but I like the tenth frame finger inserts, go figure.

andrew
--------------------
FUFU
HIT 'EM WEAK AND WATCH 'EM FREAK

JohnP

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5819
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2004, 09:22:30 AM »
Regarding the "ice cube trick" -- I've never used it, but I've been told that you have to use a special tray, sold by bowling supply houses, that is made of a material that does not stick to the plug material.  When you use the "cubes" in the bottom of a plug job, they do not melt, but the new plug material fills in all the voids to make a solid mass.  --  JohnP

Strapper_Squared

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4231
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2004, 10:13:05 AM »
quote:

Regarding the "ice cube trick" -- I've never used it, but I've been told that you have to use a special tray, sold by bowling supply houses, that is made of a material that does not stick to the plug material. When you use the "cubes" in the bottom of a plug job, they do not melt, but the new plug material fills in all the voids to make a solid mass. -- JohnP



That sounds reasonable...  you would expect the material to stick (at least a little)...  probably any sort of coated material (teflon or otherwise) would prevent against this.  If its an egg carton, you just peel the styro-foam off best as possible.  All of the epoxy's or other materials where you use a couple parts (material and a hardener) are set once they dry.  These undergo a polymerization reaction (sort of like super glue where all of the individual molecules join together to become several larger ones) and aren't able to be reversed.  So, I doubt they melt.  But there would be no reason why the plug material wouldn't fill in around the solid material.

S^2
--------------------
The Bengals season has come to an end.  Achieved the .500 mark, so all was not lost.  Now we look forward to April...  Come on Chris Gamble
+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+

JohnP

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5819
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2004, 11:25:24 AM »
Strapper_Squared -- As bullred mentioned, the curing reaction is exothermic and generates a substantial amount of heat.  I would be afraid that the egg carton material might melt, but haven't tried it.  I have heard of people melting styrofoam cups they used to mix the plug materials in.  I don't think the proper trays for this are very expensive - if I were going to do this I would purchase one.  -- JohnP

JohnP

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5819
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2004, 03:23:17 PM »
Here's one I mentioned several months ago, but maybe there are some who didn't read it.  For your spare butterfly sander, cut a square of either Scotchbrite pad or wet/dry sandpaper about 2 inches per side.  Punch a hole in the middle of it and fasten it in the sander with a small washer on each side.  Use it for final smoothing of holes, bevels, etc.  It produces holes that are much smoother than the normal 100 grit butterflies do.  --  JohnP

bowlerstyle

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 291
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #9 on: January 28, 2004, 09:04:37 AM »
I bet none of you guys have heard of this before so here it goes:  you can take an old ball cup holder (for instince I usually use the Columbia 300 ones cause they work the best) and you can mix different colors into it and wait for it to harden and then you have yourself a ball cup hold of your own different mix of colors for whatever purpose.  These ball cup holders are usefull in tourneys or league when you have too many balls on the rack but you don't want to put the ball away cause you might use it later on and it looks cool too.


PS: Flip over the Columbia 300 ball cup holder and then pour into the bottom. you can repeat this over 20 times with the same one.  and you can always break one that's hardened to use it for plug if you are a little short.

Doc Hollywood

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1177
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #10 on: January 28, 2004, 10:16:03 AM »
I use plastilene clay to make my dams for plugging balls.  You can use it over and over again and the cost is inexpensive.


--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

JohnP

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5819
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #11 on: January 28, 2004, 10:20:00 AM »
Here's a marketing tip.  Go to WalMart and buy the microfiber towels they carry in the automotive dept. (mixture of blue and white towels, 5 to a pkg, for about $1 per towel).  Repackage them in ziplock plastic bags and label them and reprice as you see fit.  I recommend purchase of one on every resin or particle ball I sell, because they do a great job of getting the oil and dirt off the ball.  Probably 3/4 of the people buy them.  I keep them reasonable, but still make a good profit, and the purchasers are happy.  --  JohnP

By the way, thanks to the poster that recommended these towels a few weeks ago.

JohnP

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5819
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #12 on: January 29, 2004, 10:37:16 AM »
Don't stop now, keep the tips coming --  JohnP

TheDude

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3170
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #13 on: January 29, 2004, 07:09:12 PM »
Most proshops have to carry multiple bevel knives. I've actually found that a Carpet hook/Knife does a very good job at beveling the top of thumb and finger holes as well. They cost about 5$ at most and it's alot less than having to buy more and more bevel knives.

Oh and the ketup cup idea i have used and it's the best idea for ball plugging.




--------------------
I am Canadian Dude! GOO BIG FIN!!! MIKA K ALL THE WAY!
Timothy @Juniors Pro-Shops
LaSalle, Quebec-Located inside Pont Mercier Lanes.
Keep them honest!

Ebay store updated very often: http://stores.ebay.com/gumby3170?refid+store

JohnP

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5819
Re: Pro shop techniques and tips
« Reply #14 on: January 29, 2004, 09:14:10 PM »
REPAIRING DAMAGED FINGER HOLES:

We've all had a ball come in with a chunk broken out at the top of a finger hole or a cracked bridge.  Instead of drilling it out, plugging and redrilling it, try this.  Use tape (I like the approx. 3/4 inch wide heavy packaging tape with the fibers in it) to form a dam by sticking a piece vertically to the side of the hole, extending a half inch or so above the top of the hole.  Back it up with several other pieces, being sure to completely cover the damaged area.  Then use modeling clay to complete a dam around the area, tieing it into the tape.  Mix a small quantity of plug material, fill the damaged area, allow to cure and work out as usual.  For a cracked bridge, use the tape in both finger holes and use two portions of clay to complete the dam.  Use a safety or straight pin to help work the plug material into the crack.  I've fixed several this way and have not had a failure yet.  For gouges on the ball surface, use those small foam dams you always end up throwing away, with a small quantity of plug material.  Makes a much better fix than the "quick repair" material.  --  JohnP