Post by: JohnP on January 21, 2004, 07:57:50 PM
SMALL QUANTITIES OF PLUG MATERIAL:
Plug material comes as a two part epoxy with calibrated pumps. The brand I use requires one pump of each, which the label on the bottle states to be 1 oz of resin to 1/3 oz of hardener. That's great if you always need 1 1/3 oz of the final mixed plug material, but I find that often I need either a very small quantity to fix a gouge or crack (yes, I've tried the "quick-fix" materials, but have not had real good results) or need slightly more than 1 1/3 oz for a thumb hole or finger holes. The important factor in mixing odd quantities is to use a ratio of 3 volumes of resin to 1 volume of hardener. Go to WalMart and buy a set of metal measuring spoons for about $1 (or steal one from your wife's kitchen if you have the nerve). There will be several spoons, ranging in size from 1/4 tsp to 1 tbs. If you need a very small quantity, use three 1/4 tsp volumes of resin to one 1/4 tsp volume of hardener. Mix carefully, because it is easy to get air entrainment with this small a quantity, and use as you would use any plug material. For preparing quantities of mix between one pump of each and two pumps of each, use one pump of the resin, add three extra quantities (example, three 1 tsp quantities) of resin, then add your colors as usual. When you add the hardener, use one pump plus one extra quantity (for our example, 1 tsp), then mix and use as always. Wipe the measuring spoon clean with a paper towel before storing.
At the cost of the plug materials, this is a good money saver. -- JohnP
Post by: AMP750 on January 22, 2004, 03:43:39 PM
I like to use small ice cube trays and use that material for the base of the plug as it will melt and mix very well. The color in the hole being plugged makes no difference.
Hammer
Post by: JohnP on January 23, 2004, 10:19:33 PM
Post by: REVOLUTIONS PS on January 24, 2004, 06:49:39 PM
Post by: agroves on January 25, 2004, 12:10:26 AM
I prefer the Vise vinyl thumb solids but I like the tenth frame finger inserts, go figure.andrew
--------------------
FUFU
HIT 'EM WEAK AND WATCH 'EM FREAK
Post by: JohnP on January 25, 2004, 09:22:30 AM
Post by: Strapper_Squared on January 26, 2004, 10:13:05 AM
quote:
Regarding the "ice cube trick" -- I've never used it, but I've been told that you have to use a special tray, sold by bowling supply houses, that is made of a material that does not stick to the plug material. When you use the "cubes" in the bottom of a plug job, they do not melt, but the new plug material fills in all the voids to make a solid mass. -- JohnP
That sounds reasonable... you would expect the material to stick (at least a little)... probably any sort of coated material (teflon or otherwise) would prevent against this. If its an egg carton, you just peel the styro-foam off best as possible. All of the epoxy's or other materials where you use a couple parts (material and a hardener) are set once they dry. These undergo a polymerization reaction (sort of like super glue where all of the individual molecules join together to become several larger ones) and aren't able to be reversed. So, I doubt they melt. But there would be no reason why the plug material wouldn't fill in around the solid material.
S^2
--------------------
The Bengals season has come to an end. Achieved the .500 mark, so all was not lost. Now we look forward to April... Come on Chris Gamble
Post by: JohnP on January 26, 2004, 11:25:24 AM
Post by: JohnP on January 26, 2004, 03:23:17 PM
Post by: bowlerstyle on January 28, 2004, 09:04:37 AM
PS: Flip over the Columbia 300 ball cup holder and then pour into the bottom. you can repeat this over 20 times with the same one. and you can always break one that's hardened to use it for plug if you are a little short.
Post by: Doc Hollywood on January 28, 2004, 10:16:03 AM
--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com
Post by: JohnP on January 28, 2004, 10:20:00 AM
By the way, thanks to the poster that recommended these towels a few weeks ago.
Post by: JohnP on January 29, 2004, 10:37:16 AM
Post by: TheDude on January 29, 2004, 07:09:12 PM
Oh and the ketup cup idea i have used and it's the best idea for ball plugging.
--------------------
I am Canadian Dude! GOO BIG FIN!!! MIKA K ALL THE WAY!
Post by: JohnP on January 29, 2004, 09:14:10 PM
We've all had a ball come in with a chunk broken out at the top of a finger hole or a cracked bridge. Instead of drilling it out, plugging and redrilling it, try this. Use tape (I like the approx. 3/4 inch wide heavy packaging tape with the fibers in it) to form a dam by sticking a piece vertically to the side of the hole, extending a half inch or so above the top of the hole. Back it up with several other pieces, being sure to completely cover the damaged area. Then use modeling clay to complete a dam around the area, tieing it into the tape. Mix a small quantity of plug material, fill the damaged area, allow to cure and work out as usual. For a cracked bridge, use the tape in both finger holes and use two portions of clay to complete the dam. Use a safety or straight pin to help work the plug material into the crack. I've fixed several this way and have not had a failure yet. For gouges on the ball surface, use those small foam dams you always end up throwing away, with a small quantity of plug material. Makes a much better fix than the "quick repair" material. -- JohnP
Post by: JohnP on February 02, 2004, 09:17:21 PM
Post by: bowlerstyle on February 02, 2004, 09:44:49 PM
Post by: bowlerstyle on February 02, 2004, 09:55:54 PM
Post by: JohnP on February 05, 2004, 11:22:29 AM
HAND SHARPENING CARBIDE TIPPED DRILL BITS:
A regular sharpening stone will not sharpen carbide bits, so you have to use a diamond stone. You can buy a Gerber pocket diamond sharpener at WalMart (about 3/8 inch of sharpening surface, they are with the knife display in sporting goods, but you may have to ask for them) for about $15 to try this tip, but a better investment is a two sided (coarse and fine, 1 inch x 4 inch sharpening surface or larger) tool. Most woodworking web sites carry these, a link to the one I bought for about $30 delivered follows:
http://www.woodessence.com/abrasivesdefault.html
To sharpen: Examination of the tip of the bit reveals two cutting edges, one on each side of the center of the bit, that are formed by angled surfaces. These are the edges to be sharpened. DO NOT WHET THE SIDES OF THE BIT, THAT WILL CHANGE THE DIAMETER OF THE HOLE DRILLED. Use your sharpener to whet the angled surface of the bit, then deburr by rubbing the flat back of the bit surface with the sharpener. For a very dull bit, first use the coarse side, then follow with the fine side. If you run your finger over the drill bit edge before you sharpen and occasionally as you sharpen, you will feel it getting sharper. This procedure will not get a bit as sharp as sending it out to be ground, but it does get it plenty sharp to use and only takes about 10 minutes to sharpen a bit. Be sure to maintain the angle that was ground into the bit at manufacture and try to whet about the same amount on both edges of the bit. If you do this as soon as you notice your bit dulling, you can just use the fine side of the sharpener and it will only take about 5 minutes. If you have any doubts about how to go about the sharpening procedure, find a bowler that is also a woodworker, show him this procedure and ask him to demonstrate for you. Give him a discount on his next purchase for his trouble, or work out a deal for a permanent discount if he sharpens your bits for you. -- JohnP