You are kind of contradicting yourself? You want control, but not an early rolling ball? Thats basically the idea of control is early rolling, even arcing. If you want balls to go longer, stop buying balls that are meant to roll early, like the classic.
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....BRUNSWICK!
¡Viva la nación de Brunswick!
Nothing more to be said.
....DEATH BY CHEETOS!!!!

why do you think that? Are you saying that weak drills wont carry as well or something? The only difference between a stroker w/ strong drills and you with weak ones will be hook potential and shape. And also, maybe you need to stop buying balls that are so strong? They may be rolling so early because they are just too much for the condition. Get weaker balls and drill them strong if thats what you want to do. Its using the ball more to its full potential. I cant see buying a strong ball and drilling it weak, unless you are trying to get a certain hard to find reaction, say a little, smooth arc for heavy oil, or something very specific like that.
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....BRUNSWICK!
¡Viva la nación de Brunswick!
Nothing more to be said.
....DEATH BY CHEETOS!!!!

Edited on 1/19/2005 4:06 PM

For light, the punisher would be good. So would a power groove, or a slay/r, or something like that. Something designed for light oil. For the mediums, both of those would work. The main difference is that the intense will go real long and snap hard, where as the classic will be more rolly, and have arc. I am just unsure what to tell you because you want something that goes long but is control. That is kind of hard to find unless you do drill a ball weak, for one of those hard to find reactions, that goes long and arcs softly on the back end. I read somewhere that the lustre king machines do well for this, throw the ball in there and it waxes (not polishes) it, so it goes long, but doesnt turn really hard.
--------------------
....BRUNSWICK!
¡Viva la nación de Brunswick!
Nothing more to be said.
....DEATH BY CHEETOS!!!!

Read mine. It tells everything a person would want to know.

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Why do you need my signature?....You know who I am.

jonah300

It would be very helpful if you listed your PAP, axis rotation, and axis tilt/track diameter to your profile.

Especially AR and AT/TD because these are a major factor when suggesting a ball.

You say you want a controlled reaction, well the best way to get a controlled reaction is to use the appropriate amount of axis rotation/speed for the condition your bowling on.

For example:
with my 5.75 X 4 (Pin x MB) X-Factor I can play either a 18 to 5 line with a skid/snap reaction rolling it with about 55-65° of axis rotation and 15 MPH or go straight up 10 with a smooth arc rolling it with about 20-30° axis rotation and 17 MPH. This is on the exact same condition.
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