All this year I have been bowling on a explosive wet dry, but not really that wet in the middle and only 35 feet laydown in length.

I had a moderate amount of success using Columbia old techniques of aggressively throwing way in to the dry(well past the 10 board oil line) with weak solids like my stacked Sonic X solid.

I kept thinking with my straightest release near 40 degrees I would have good results with a 2 inch pin to pap.  I had both a Hammer Onyx Vibe 2 X 5 and a Ebonite Pearl Stinger 2 X 2 with a strong weighthole for this pearl.

In all reality both were mediocre failures on this shot.  Only the solid Onyx Vibe had a few good games and most of the time looked spent well before the pocket.

However, yesterday I went to a Sister house pulled out the Onyx Vibe and realized there was more oil in the middle and maybe even a sparkier side area.  But this ball went in to homing pigeon mode and annihilated the shot for 4 games.  I finished with the only two games I bowled with just that ball with 245 and 238 with a missed 7 pin I think in each game!

I tried in the early games one of my smoother solids but stacked and though I could find the pocket why fight city hall when it was so easy with the 2 X 5 Onyx Vibe.  Though it just walked in to the pocket it hit with a flourish.

Much more energy retention than on the shorter and lower volume shot at the original house.

Now I am laying out a pin on PAP reactive pearl that I tried out for the original house to give a try and see if I can create the same area and energy retention the solid has at the wetter sister house.

For those battling wet/dry don't be afraid to try these laying down weightblock drillings.  2 X 5.

From the gurus any other ideas for the original house besides what I proposed above?

REgards,

Luckylefty

They attempt to put out a bunch of oil but from 10 to 10 to 35 foot and then buff to 40.

It is in the so called buffed area35 foot to 40 feet in length 10 to 20 that the ball actually jerks sideways for a pearl in early games, and misses the head pin and for a solid gives a wave to the headpin as it maybe glancingly touches it.

I used the technique with my solids of throwing 10 to 3 at 30 feet with aggressive revs.  If instead one throws to 6 or 8 at 35 foot washouts often result!

As a result up to 30 feet it is a very typical wet dry to side to side and sparky.  As the double nozzled 10 to 10 to 35 feet quickly moves down the sides at 35 feet start to look like a reverse block  sloppy outside of 10 and sparky in the slowly getting wetter in the 35 to 40 foot buff area(10 to 10).  Rigtties push that oil right down in practice.

I've played most successfully as above (10 to 3 with a weak cored solid) but have also gone to the third arrow (starting in the 2nd game) and swung my stacked Tropical Heat solid 14 to 11 Speed must be FIRM or as the sparkiness lessens my AMF Shredit on the same line calms down to at least annihilate pocket.

Regards,

Luckylefty
In general our fast bowlers like it and our 30 degreers and less like it!  Stll considering a 2 by 5 pearl as the 2 x 2 pearl is such a DUD!

When deviating from leverage or 3 3/8" you diminish overall flare potential and shape, thus a pin farther from leverage towards the track creates length with a quicker response or hockey stick; a pin farther from leverage towards the PAP creates an earlier reaction and slower response to friction or a curve.
A variable I strongly believe in is in the use of weight holes in adjusting speed as well, i.e.slowing the ball down to control the reaction.
I am not a huge fan of either 1.5-2" pin to pap or 5-6" pin to pap without weight holes, they become less susceptible to over/under due to flare rings being too tight which can create hyper sensibility to oil down lane smoothing out the 35-45' range.

Just Rico,

I appreciate those comments.  I would like to understand them a little better.

Lower Flare drillings you like weight holes and I think I remember from some of your other posts larger and shallower rather than smaller and deeper to increase the space between flare rings...Is that right?  Also I believe often weightholes down is often a choice you recommend correct?

TwoHand,

I might as well tell you the Storm Natural I have hooks and then straightens out.
Usually on any pair I have more backend than anyone!  But not with this strike ball dud!  I use it as a spare ball drilled 4 1/2 X 3 1/2.  With a P2.5 weight hole Great spare ball for the 2 4 8 10! 

Regards,

Luckylefty

Twohand834,

 I just looked at the finishes and the Natural was listed as 2000.

The Blue Hammer was listed as 800/1000/2000/4000.

I'm thinking of adding a little duller under sand.  Your thoughts?

Regards,

Luckylefty