IT's kind of a run on, as I copied it from a word document of mine.
I think these are the last two, or at least #3
LuckyLefty Posted: 11/18/2002 6:33 AM Many of you probably know this. I have a problem dragging the back of my thumb in the back of my ball.
Mo Pinel in the recent one on one help session with Del Warren beveled in the following manner.While ring finger only in ball, while pulling thumb in and out he beveled the front of the hole. While middle finger only in ball he moved thumb up and down and beveled side of hole(left for me as lefty, right for you righties) until thumb stopped dragging in back.Interesting, most of my drag happened when my middle finger only was in the ball and resulted in more side bevel than I usually use! Or more than my ball driller usually introduces! Note I've done some of my best bowling with tapered thumb holes which I believe introduce in a way more side and front pitch than you have drilled in your ball. Something this amount of side and front bevel does in a staight insert.It was amazing to watch the drag just go away as he added bevel until there was no drag!REgards,Luckylefty PS Maybe this will help someone else out there.
LuckyLefty Posted: 11/20/2002 6:39 AM T-God, I always noted your comments on Bevel, that you were for it. However, if I had a ball that was hanging I would go in to my ProShop and say it is hanging, the next thing I knew I was dropping it!HOW much bevel?
?NOW I have the answer! I have already done several experiments.One I found my PERFECT FIT PITCHES for my hand via Bill Taylor. The problem is I get around the ball too much( but because pitches are so perfect, I don't need any bevel.)Next I selected pitches that I thought would encourage the more behind the ball delivery I wanted. (No way was this ball going to come off my hand).Now I applied the two part method above of adding front bevel while only having the ring finger in the ball and pulling the thumb out until it does not graze the back or hang at all. Then second step only having middle finger in I now add side bevel while pulling thumb out until it does not hang, constantly adding a little bevel.I notice that on many balls to get this free clearance on both surfaces that I will have a difference in the amount of bevel between the front and sides. I also notice that balls I have drilled with different thumb pitches require different amounts of bevel in the two different spots in order to release cleanly.Also I have added forward to a couple of balls and noted that with a moderate amount of bevel I could not get out. But by adding mostly front bevel(ring finger test) I could have a tremendous amount of holding power while releasing right when I wanted.My conclusion, Pitches do matter and Bevel must be coordinated with the pitches one selects and the anatomy of your hand.Bottom line the method to do this is easy, accurate and detailed above.REgards,LuckyleftyPS I truly believe I have now found the SECRET of the perfect thumb fit and this is it!!!PSS I believe my bowling results are going to skyrocket. I will post as I exit the funk zone!
LuckyLefty Posted: 11/20/2002 8:30 AM He shortened my span from the Bill Taylor recommended span. (To middle of stretched ring and then middle finger).But that was to accomodate some forward pitches in fingers where he wanted a certain effect on rotation.I have other balls with longer span that I was rubbing in back and I found I could stop the rubbing in back with the bevel adjustments detailed above.Note these longer spans are not stretched spans. However with this method no adjustment to the back of the thumbhole has been necessary NOW!Note I have a big knob from previous drillings and bevel combinations that is already going down with this new method of fitting(for me).REgards,LuckyleftyPS I think when my ball driller used to add bevel he would do it on both surfaces! Front and side. Often my front was already fine and I just needed a slight adjustment on the side. Voila bevel both when you only need on side results in DROPSEY! Now I know where to do it front or side or not at all! It can be done very gradually and then sand with 120 instead of 80 grit to control the smoothing process also.(It is slower).
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Eric T. Spivey, P.E.
Visionary Test Staff Member
http://www.visionarybowling.com