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General Category => Drilling & Layouts => Topic started by: alloutsmith3 on June 28, 2010, 05:49:59 AM

Title: Straight as an arrow
Post by: alloutsmith3 on June 28, 2010, 05:49:59 AM
If you were going to drill an entry level reactive ball for yourself to go as straight as possible how would you drill it. Would putting the pin on your axis or in your track be best or is there a better location. I'm talking about trying to make the ball go as straight as an arrow. I know this is generalized but I'm just looking for a generalized answer and opinions. Thanks
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Jason Smith
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: Good Times Good Times on June 28, 2010, 01:56:19 PM
I would just go with plastic.  ANY reactive is going to hook if the heads are fried.  Ihave a Vibe with (I think my driller said a 5 1/2" pin to Pap) and it has UFO polish on it.  It has a pop on the back and once they start to dry out it hooks.  

Again, plastic..... XXXL starburst may be what you want.
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"Few men have virtue to withstand the highest bidder" - George Washington

Edited on 6/28/2010 1:57 PM
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: charlest on June 28, 2010, 06:59:59 PM
quote:
If you were going to drill an entry level reactive ball for yourself to go as straight as possible how would you drill it. Would putting the pin on your axis or in your track be best or is there a better location. I'm talking about trying to make the ball go as straight as an arrow. I know this is generalized but I'm just looking for a generalized answer and opinions. Thanks
--------------------
Jason Smith


Pin on PAP, CG on grip center, zero weights, in general.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: MTD300 on June 28, 2010, 07:34:06 PM
Drill a urethane....
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: bighook69 on June 28, 2010, 07:41:12 PM
pip on pap is a great way to neutralize the core, but you are still going to deal with the cover... I have drilled a ton of balls with pin on pap and for me it was always an early, smooth rolling reaction... definitely not "straight as an arrow"

... get a polished up urethane or plastic.
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: alloutsmith3 on June 29, 2010, 09:02:05 PM
I use a plastic ball now but was hoping to kill 2 birds with one stone by combining a light oil and spare ball. Was thinking about trying the Motiv Recon thats going to be coming out.
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Jason Smith
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: kidlost2000 on June 29, 2010, 09:37:31 PM
Are there any vids out there with a ball drilled up with the pin on or near the MB within 2" ?

I'd like to see something in action before trying it myself.
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" men lie, women lie, numbers don't "
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: tywithay on June 29, 2010, 10:18:09 PM
Why waste a perfectly good reactive ball? Just drill it with a normal layout then come straight up the back of it. No revs, no hook...or drill a plastic like everyone else said. A reactive ball will do just that, react, once it hits the dry regardless of how you drill it.
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: dizzyfugu on June 30, 2010, 10:16:55 AM
quote:
Why waste a perfectly good reactive ball?


+1? If you want a ball that goes straight, get a polyester ball. Why work againts the reactive coverstock and its properties with a dead layout? the ball will still grip and hook unless you can deliver it with total forward roll. Pin on PAP would also be my suggestion here, though, but I do not see the point behind this project? I am confused...
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany

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Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: nmbr1sun99 on June 30, 2010, 10:30:01 AM
Get the Motiv Recon... You wont be disappointed. Dont buy a reactive ball and drill it to go straight, that is not the purpose of a reactive ball and more than not, you would be disappointed with the reaction from the ball.
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PBA Member
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In my bag:
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Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: notsohotshot on June 30, 2010, 10:58:45 AM
I drilled a Dry R label with side weight as close to zero as possible without placing a hole and it goes straight unless I crank on it or the lanes are extremely dry. This sounds like what the poster is looking for,to kill 2 birds with one ball. It works for me and I have been using the ball for close to 3 yrs now and have 1 in reserve.
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: Good Times Good Times on June 30, 2010, 11:00:55 AM
I think OP is wanting to turn apples into oranges.......
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"Few men have virtue to withstand the highest bidder" - George Washington
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: charlest on June 30, 2010, 11:14:56 AM
quote:
I use a plastic ball now but was hoping to kill 2 birds with one stone by combining a light oil and spare ball. Was thinking about trying the Motiv Recon thats going to be coming out.
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Jason Smith


You may not like what this does for a strike ball,
PLUS
as someone has already implied, every ball will react somewhat differently depending on the usual factors.
PLUS
for a dry lanes ball, most people want and need length, not the earliest roll.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: alloutsmith3 on June 30, 2010, 09:31:09 PM
quote:
I drilled a Dry R label with side weight as close to zero as possible without placing a hole and it goes straight unless I crank on it or the lanes are extremely dry. This sounds like what the poster is looking for,to kill 2 birds with one ball. It works for me and I have been using the ball for close to 3 yrs now and have 1 in reserve.


This is exactly what I'm trying to do. Just looking for ideas on the best way to take the core out of play as much as possible.

It won't be a waste of a ball because I bowl on many different conditions and will be able to use it.
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Jason Smith
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: charlest on June 30, 2010, 09:51:48 PM
quote:
quote:
I drilled a Dry R label with side weight as close to zero as possible without placing a hole and it goes straight unless I crank on it or the lanes are extremely dry. This sounds like what the poster is looking for,to kill 2 birds with one ball. It works for me and I have been using the ball for close to 3 yrs now and have 1 in reserve.


This is exactly what I'm trying to do. Just looking for ideas on the best way to take the core out of play as much as possible.

It won't be a waste of a ball because I bowl on many different conditions and will be able to use it.
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Jason Smith


But Jason, do you know what the Dry/R ball was? The Power Groove Dry/R.
It had one of the weakest coverstocks ever put on a ball. For 99% of the people, it would go dead straight if you drilled it full leverage!!!
Not every ball will do that. Heck, not many balls will do that. DOuble heck, hardly any ball will do that!

Why test an old used ball and check it out first, before wasting money on a new ball???
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: laufaye on June 30, 2010, 10:02:33 PM
To try to eliminate the influence of the core I would put the Pin 6 3/4 away from the PAP.

To eliminate the hook or change of direction totally, throw the ball with zero axis rotation.

The cover is the part touching the lane, the only friction point, least friction is plastic, zero axis rotation even with friction still not going to change direction.

So to answer your question, I'll suggest Pin on track.....but I don't think just that will do what you want.
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Brunswick Pro Shop Staff
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Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: notsohotshot on July 01, 2010, 12:19:13 AM
I found the Dry R to be a great ball to use for my spare ball and the ball will hook if the backends are dry enough or the whole lanes are torched. And right now since they have been discontinued rhey are as cheap as plastic with more hit at the pins. I have a few 15# ers left for sale I think if the poster is interested. Yhe ball has worked great for me for yrs now.
Title: Re: Straight as an arrow
Post by: alloutsmith3 on July 01, 2010, 07:35:48 PM
quote:
quote:
quote:
I drilled a Dry R label with side weight as close to zero as possible without placing a hole and it goes straight unless I crank on it or the lanes are extremely dry. This sounds like what the poster is looking for,to kill 2 birds with one ball. It works for me and I have been using the ball for close to 3 yrs now and have 1 in reserve.


This is exactly what I'm trying to do. Just looking for ideas on the best way to take the core out of play as much as possible.

It won't be a waste of a ball because I bowl on many different conditions and will be able to use it.
--------------------
Jason Smith


But Jason, do you know what the Dry/R ball was? The Power Groove Dry/R.
It had one of the weakest coverstocks ever put on a ball. For 99% of the people, it would go dead straight if you drilled it full leverage!!!
Not every ball will do that. Heck, not many balls will do that. DOuble heck, hardly any ball will do that!

Why test an old used ball and check it out first, before wasting money on a new ball???
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."


Yeah, I had a Dry/R for awhile drilled with a 4.5"-5" PTP and it made a great spare ball as well as a dry lane ball. Except for the major hook monsters I don't have too much of a problem getting a ball to go pretty straight. As well as I can hook just about anything. I've never drilled anything with such a weak drill and was curious how much hook potential could be taken out. Also thought about taking the surface to 2000 or 4000 plus polish. I appreciate the input and I think you had a good idea in getting a ball off the used forsale rack to play around with.
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Jason Smith