I've always been a skid flip player but am trying to smooth out and straighten my game a bit. I was practicing tonight with a bunch of different releases and throwing 4 different balls from different areas of the lane.  Didn't do anything fantastic. Was around a 200 average.. Then for the last two games I went to my Slate Blue Gargoyle urethane.. piped up 10 out to sniff the edge of the dry around 7... ball was coming back and crushing the pins.. shot 278, 238....

How can I get that smooth predictable roll out of a reactive ball?.. Something with the same look just stronger.. I think my 900 Global is about the closest thing I have right now.. is there a layout to use or are there particular balls to look at ??
--------------------
18 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, 15 deg axis tilt, varied rotational axis deg.. usually 45+
HighGame 300 x 4, High Series 808
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience 185

I would just get a Seismic Desperado and be done! GREAT urethane ball with a asymmetric core. Anyways, to answer your question, you can use a small drill angle and a very large val angle and it will give you slower response off the friction. It still won''t be urethane. Like ranAAchan said, a rico drill will give that look as much as possible.
--------------------Also, pin on axis or near axis will give a similar look, but they don''t hit very hard.
the pooh

Edited on 2/17/2010 5:23 AM

Jw,

Very few balls act like a Slate Blue Gargoyle. Don''t forget it''s a pearl urethane, too. That makes it more unique. Actually I found my Blue/green Centaur to have a more urethane-like roll than my SBG. Its core is a lot weaker though.

There have been a few balls that such small, even tiny backends that you say they were "urethane-like". One is the Blue/Green Centaur. Another one from years gone by is the Lane#1 Bullet. I have several urethanes that have more backend that one had, including the Hype and the Desperado. Since Brunswick made it for Lane#1, you''ll never see one again,  unless someone has one hidden somehwere. And it hit too! Worth its weight in gold, but not asmuch as the BGC.

FYI one other ball currently available that some people say is very "urethane-like" is the Motiv SX-1. I won''t guarantee that because mine was not even remotely close to urethane. Heck, with its original drilling mine was flippy.

I think you can reduce the backend (maximizing their control, the essence of urethanes) to the max on many resin balls is to put the pin on your axis. That reduces the flare to zero and any skid is gotten from the ball''s surface, the oil and your delivery (tilt, rotation and ball speed).

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 2/17/2010 7:26 AM

particle balls tend to blend oil patterns too.  If you want a great urethane ball then the amf hype is amazing.  It has a rg or 2.48 and a diff. .5 and the cover can be adjusted to whatever you want.
--------------------
Kiall Hill
900Global
AMF 300
Good Stuff

Pin distance to pap

0" - minimum flare potential, core is in its most stable position, earliest roll with smoothest arc.
1 1/8" - 1/3 of flare potential, stable core position, earlier roll with smooth arc.
2 1/4" - 2/3 of flare potential, semi stable core position, early roll with strong arc.
3 3/8" - max flare potential, most unstable core position, medium length with the most hook potential.
4 1/2" - 2/3 of flare potential, semi stable core position, late roll with flip/arc reaction.
5 5/8" - 1/3 of flare potential, stable core position, later roll with a flip reaction.
6 3/4" - minimum flare potential, stable core position, latest roll with strongest flip.


I would probably go with one of the suggestions in bold. I would try a medium reactive solid ball and play with the surface around 800-1000 grit and maybe some light polish to tweak it if needed.
--------------------
" men lie, women lie, numbers don''''t "



Edited on 2/17/2010 8:28 AM