I do this pretty much on all my stuff. I like to keep the pins above my ring which puts it around 5 inches from my axis and then depending on the shot shape I want, I tweak the distance of where the cg/MB are in relation to my center line. If I want ALOT of angle on the back, I will put the pin above the bridge which puts it around 5.5 inches and the cg under the ring finger, no weight hole and adjust the surface. If I want something to help read the lane better and go for more of a hard arc, then I keep the pin above the ring finger and adjust how far out I shift the cg/MB, typically between 35 and 45 degrees with a weight hole down.
I do not do anything with a weight holes in P1 or P2. I always go P3 or P4; especially if the differential is low. However, I do for specific purposes have a ball with the pin at 2 inches, cg in the grip and no weight hole for when I encounter a short pattern and/or flying backends where I need control. For the most part, everything I have in pin above the ring, cg out at 35-45 degrees and a weight hole down. Then, last but not lease, adjust the surface to fine tune the overall ball roll. I like to keep it simple.