Author Topic: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control? (Read 6123 times)

charlest · « **on:** May 04, 2003, 02:05:31 PM »

Philosophy Side Step:

I have tried some of these 5x5 type of drillings and, in general, I find them far too snappy and lacking in any sense of control; kind of like CYR indicated in his mini-comparison above.

I've never even dared tried to drill up a Silver Streak solid although I have one; going to give to a friend who's a fluffer for Knoxville. Anyways,
Recently I have tried an old friend drilling to reduce the backend and get a handle on some control, since the lanes I've been bowling on have been so darn dry lately.

3x5 or 3x5.5:
It seems that since most solids I use are shined anyway, this drilling seems to help them burn up enough in the midlane and the angle, around 110 degrees helps reduce the backend, where as stacked drilling, be they 4x4, 5x5 or 6x6, all make for incredibly hard to control snaps, some larger, some smaller. In fact, I'm going to try this on a few more balls. It seems to have worked on an Igniter
and a Tornado (which can be very flippy and strong). I'm having a Power Groove drilled up this week; it's supposed to be much stronger than its specs indicate and I think I'm going to try this type of drilling on it also.

charlest · « **Reply #1 on:** May 05, 2003, 09:48:50 AM »

Angstfilled,

WHile that set-up worked OK for him, one must be careful when placing the pin near the axis: you have to watch the surface, the RG Differential, the RG, the bowler's revs & speed and the oil pattern.

I don't just mean this type of drilling to handle wet/drys; it is known to be able to do that, I believe.
I also mean it to control too much dry, Of course, as long as it can clear the heads. I am thinking of this to control dry-ish midlanes and VERY dry backends.

This past weekend we had a little local county tournament and even on the first shift after oiling, most bowlers with any revs were quite frustrated. I went from a 3x5 polsihed solid to a 5x5 with pin over the bridge. Even tho' the 5x5 was a slightly milder ball, I think should have stayed with the 3x5 stronger ball. 20/20 hindsight ....

I need to experiment some more.

charlest · « **Reply #2 on:** May 05, 2003, 09:53:45 AM »

quote:

Can you Rev:
I don't have anything with a 1 or 2 inch pin to pap as I have always figured that such a layout would equal way too early of a reaction as I have problems with balls rolling out with much lengthier drillings. I need to invest in a ball that has a lot of length sometime I guess and see what it does with a 1" pin to pap...might be a good thing.

Indeed! you need a ball to clear the heads or sufficient oil. I often encounter sufficient head oil, but drier mids and backend.

You might want to try 2 - 2.5" pin before you go all the way to a 1". Some manufacturers strongly recommend palcing the pin no closer than 1.5" from the PAP!

quote:
I have however found that for the most part I can survive with the 6" + pin to pap distances unless the oil is really short and combined with flying backends (which is what the local houses tend to be).

I had 2 balls like that, one extreme at 7" and a current high flaring pearl that works decently with a 6x4 drilling. However, I feel this pin position, 6" or greater, makes me feel like I am taking the core out of play, especially with lower RG differential balls. The 2-3" pin uses the pin and the RG differential to mediate, to soften the ball's reaction; it kind of uses the core's features to the bowler's advantage.

Edited on 5/5/2003 10:36 AM

charlest · « **Reply #3 on:** May 05, 2003, 10:29:50 AM »

Fencer04,

But we're not talking about when you have plenty of oil. In general, that's not a problem. We're talking about people trying to use ball stronger than normal for drier conditions by using 5x5 or like drillings. My premise, my question is: is there some more controllable, more appropriate drilling that will enable people with stronger hands to use these stronger balls or just not have to use very weak balls.

charlest · « **Reply #4 on:** May 05, 2003, 11:52:45 AM »

quote:
My curiosity is why would you want to use a ball meant for a different condition? Are you stuck with a ball and need to make it work or is it just a hypothetical? It seems to me that there wouldn't really be any advantage to using a strong ball on dry conditions. To me it is like using a screw driver on a nail. With todays bowling balls I am not sure you could take a strong ball and make it with and have good results. So I guess I am saying that it could be done but why?
--------------------
J.Hansen

But you're doing it by using such a drilling. Placing the pin over the bridge is a weakened drilling on a strong ball.

I'm just saying we're inclined to go for a weaker drilling in only one direction - towards greater pin distance. One can also weaken a ball (IE less flare) by going towards smaller pin distances.

charlest · « **Reply #5 on:** May 05, 2003, 12:51:11 PM »

quote:
What I want to know was, what is the point of killing the reaction on a strong ball? Why not buy the weaker one aka the one that is made the job at hand?
--------------------
J.Hansen

Some people believe that stronger balls hit harder.

A real point is that stronger balls will be more even reacting on drier consitions and their stronger covers are less susceptible to carrydown, if and when it occurrs.

Those are some reasons.

omegabowler · « **Reply #6 on:** May 05, 2003, 02:59:36 PM »

I have had some problems on dryer - wet/dry with stacked drillings. I tried this layout on my Blue Sparkle Gryphon( a med to light ball) solid with mica flakes. I like it so much That it has sent 3 balls to the minors or released.

A good layout that matches the ball, your style, and lane conditions is a enlighten experience. Add some skills and you can cut your arsenal in half.

Iâ€™m going to get the new Gryphon and lay it out the same way but with the CG in the thumb quadrant. for a nice early move and strong continuation for med to heavy shots.

Further reading if interested in my experiences with a 10:30 drilling on a solid reactive ball

15lb - 3 " pin about 3oz top

I put the pin under ring and kicked the cg out towards the pap along the grip centerline. added a weight hole to make it legal.

reactions:

Dry:
STAND 35/40 PLAY 4TH/5TH ARROW TO ABOUT THE 5. nice big arcing reaction with a midlane breakpoint. smooth and controllable.

Light:
stand about 25 play, 3rd arrow out to the 8-5 board. a nice late move that I consider to be a med Arc with a late breakpoint. very sweet for me.

Med.

stand about 15-20 play 1st or second with a 5 board swing. A late break and a little more angular because of the skid/snap of reactive and more oil. Usually switch to a pearl particle to open up the lane and get a better entry angle.

charlest · « **Reply #7 on:** May 06, 2003, 09:06:08 AM »

Omega,

A high tracker, <= 3/4" from holes, will get a more even reaction from a stacked drilling than a 3/4 tracker, say >= 1.5" from the holes. Speed and revs also enter into the equations. High speed = more even reaction, less revs per speed = more even reaction, more revs + less speed = more drastic reaction, etc.

omegabowler · « **Reply #8 on:** May 06, 2003, 10:54:41 AM »

I'm a high tracker who has an inverted track. not to inverted anymore but enough that the track is still closer to the fingers than the thumb. I guess the revs really matter because on fresh oil and a weak reactive( pearls also) drilled stacked 5x5, give me way to much skid snap.

a lot depends on the ball. my Purple ice( low flare ball, pearl particle) was drilled stacked over the ring finger. 5 x 5 basically. It was to sensitive. I redrilled it to stacked leverage 4x4 and it is perfect for me. about 3" of flare in the oil. with a nice smooth arc and tons of energy at the pins.

My main 3 balls are all drilled to arc but when I carry 6 I will always have one drilled 5x5 to take advantage of inside lines when my arcing Equipment doesnâ€™t finish or carry. just a different look.

charlest · « **Reply #9 on:** May 06, 2003, 07:35:16 PM »

quote:
I'm a high tracker who has an inverted track. not to inverted anymore but enough that the track is still closer to the fingers than the thumb. I guess the revs really matter because on fresh oil and a weak reactive( pearls also) drilled stacked 5x5, give me way to much skid snap.

a lot depends on the ball. my Purple ice( low flare ball, pearl particle) was drilled stacked over the ring finger. 5 x 5 basically. It was to sensitive. I redrilled it to stacked leverage 4x4 and it is perfect for me. about 3" of flare in the oil. with a nice smooth arc and tons of energy at the pins.

There you go!
I am also inverted at times (some people say, all the time ...) but my track is slightly further away from the fingers. I find pins below the bridge much more stable and even; my only ggod ball drilled with pin over the ring finger is a very mild solid.

Don't forget that solids and duller balls also make reactions more even!

quote:

My main 3 balls are all drilled to arc but when I carry 6 I will always have one drilled 5x5 to take advantage of inside lines when my arcing Equipment doesnâ€™t finish or carry. just a different look.

Pins drilled over the bridge make for balls with greater length before they hook
BUT,
in general make for much snappier backends, because the ball's break happens over a much shorer area or time period.
You do not need pins over the bridge to be able to make them hook from a deep inside angle. That makes them hook less, in general.

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #10 on:** May 10, 2003, 08:16:16 AM »

I've drilled some balls 2 X 4 (Pro Zone Azure), and some others 2 1/4 X 2 1/4(Titanium Boss), and a Pin axis ball(green messenger).

The 2 X 4 Pro Zone Azure was great on heavy head oil with dry backends.
Awesome, someone stole it.

The 2 X 2 Boss was early and covered boards in the backend but smoothly.
Also did this on a Command Zone and put a strong weighthole and if enough head oil quite good. I prefer 4 X 2 to create a similar reaction.

The pin axis green messenger required an off pap weighthole to get any backend reaction.

I have recently started playing with sanding a little more and I remember that when I sand only across the track, it can turn a 4 X 4 into acting a little more like a 2 X 4.

I've posted a thing on coverstock on sanding, since I started fooling with it again I think I could have dramatically improved my poor performances this year.

REGards,

Luckylefty

charlest · « **Reply #11 on:** May 11, 2003, 07:09:57 AM »

quote:
alrighty, Going to the proshop next week. I think I'm going to go for a ball that clears the heads well, and try a 1-2" pin to pap distance with MB in track. Maybe, just maybe I'll have luck with such a layout. Might give the layout a shot on an x-factor or something along those lines....core power HRG might be a good ball for such a layout.

What ball do you look for in such circumstances Charlest? Other peoples?

muchas gracias
--------------------
BUMPER BOWLING IS FOR THE KIDDIES

1. Start with about 2" pin, not 1" pin.
2. For drier lanes, a polished pearl, or fairly highly polished solid (say 2000 grit), with about .035 - .045 with low-med. to medium RG (2.50 to 2.58) ((very general)). For oilier lanes (to conquer wet/drys), try a ball with more surface; use your best judgement.
3. Place CG in a position relative to the pin that's good for your release.
2x4 or 2x5 are decent starting positions.

Edited on 5/11/2003 7:09 AM

Author Topic: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control? (Read 6123 times)

charlest

weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

charlest

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

charlest

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

charlest

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

charlest

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

charlest

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omegabowler

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

charlest

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

omegabowler

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

charlest

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

LuckyLefty

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?

charlest

Re: weak drillings of strong balls vs. unflippy drillings for control?