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Author Topic: If you drill an old school pancake cored ball......  (Read 5795 times)

Juggernaut

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If you drill an old school pancake cored ball......
« on: December 05, 2009, 03:20:59 AM »
What is the best way to maximize the balls reaction?  Is it to put the CG 3 3/8 from the pap above the grip midline or is it something else?

 Yes, it is a pin in ball. Just for spares mostly, but want it as dynamic as possible for those nights we all have sometimes when we need something for "special" conditions.
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the pooh

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Re: If you drill an old school pancake cored ball......
« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2009, 12:33:04 PM »
I like to use "block weight". Put the cg 2" from pap on midline. Good starting top weight is 2 1/2 ounces or less. Put x-hole on pap and bring back to legal. This is very controllable but hits hard. I used this layout on white dots, yellow dots, etc to shoot many honor scores in the 70's and 80's
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Juggernaut

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Re: If you drill an old school pancake cored ball......
« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2009, 07:33:22 PM »
We used to have a guy here who used a lot of "block weighted" stuff, but his method was different.

  What he called "block weight" was putting the CG 3 3/8 from the grip center on the midline with an X-hole 3 3/8 past that, also on the midline.

  That particular drill never worked well for me (my pap is only 4 1/8 over), but had a friend who shot out of his mind with it.
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charlest

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Re: If you drill an old school pancake cored ball......
« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2009, 07:38:20 PM »
quote:
We used to have a guy here who used a lot of "block weighted" stuff, but his method was different.

  What he called "block weight" was putting the CG 3 3/8 from the grip center on the midline with an X-hole 3 3/8 past that, also on the midline.

  That particular drill never worked well for me (my pap is only 4 1/8 over), but had a friend who shot out of his mind with it.
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Did he really express it that way: 3 3/8" from grip center?
Even back in the day of pancake cores, that makes no sense. The idea is to put the CG/pin (on pancakes cores they are co-located) 3 3/8" from your PAP and then put the wt hole 2-3" past your PAP. That maximizes the flare. Actually since they flare so little, you have some leeway with them. 3" is probably fine.

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Juggernaut

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Re: If you drill an old school pancake cored ball......
« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2009, 10:09:03 PM »
quote:
Did he really express it that way: 3 3/8" from grip center?
Even back in the day of pancake cores, that makes no sense. The idea is to put the CG/pin (on pancakes cores they are co-located) 3 3/8" from your PAP and then put the wt hole 2-3" past your PAP. That maximizes the flare. Actually since they flare so little, you have some leeway with them. 3" is probably fine.


  Yep, sure did.  3 3/8 from MY grip center only leaves it about 1in. from my pap, and that didn't work for me.

  I was thinking of doing exactly what you mentioned here with the cg 3 3/8 from pap with a flare increasing hole. Shouldn't make this ball overly strong, just better on a true dry shot.
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tburky

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Re: If you drill an old school pancake cored ball......
« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2009, 10:30:09 PM »
There were 2 layouts that I always liked for pancake blocks. Lay out 1 a 2" shift with the cg 1/2" above the midline. This gave the ball 1/2 ounce of finger weight and then I put the extra hole 7" from the center of grip on the midline. Lay out 2 a leverage layout with a 3-1/2" shift with the cg on the midline with a 9" hole which rolled earlier.
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