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Author Topic: Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help  (Read 2443 times)

Juggernaut

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Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help
« on: September 05, 2005, 07:22:48 AM »
(This is also posted in the columbia section)

 I've had this ball in the shop a while now, but I think I'm the only one intriuged by it, so I'm gonna drill it up for me.

 I've read all the reviews on it, and it seems to be a very versatile piece that works well for quite a few. Very few negative remarks about this ball.

 Here's the deal. I have a slower ball speed and an aggressive hand release, so I have to watch out. Lots of balls tend to roll early on me.

  I was thinking about polishing this up at about 2000 and using a 2 X 2 pattern or something along those lines. What do you guys think?
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Traumatize

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Re: Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help
« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2005, 03:28:28 PM »
If you are worried about the ball rolling too early, I wouldn't drill it 2x2.  This is an early rolling smooth drilling.  I would recommend a layout with the pin from 4 1/2" to 5" from your axis, above the fingers.  Then kick the cg and put a weighthole on your axis to smooth out the reaction.  This ball takes surface adjustment very easy so do no be afraid to shine.
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Juggernaut

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Re: Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help
« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2005, 03:36:20 PM »
T,

 4 1/2 - 5 in pin placement usually gives me a very "flippy" look on the backends, that is why I was looking at a short distance.

 Had an old Nitro/R drilled about 2 X 2 and it was very mild.  I know the cover on the hyde is stronger, just wondered if it would have a similar effect on the hyde as it did on the nitro/r.

 Also, if I did go with a 5 in pin placement, could I get the weighthole to even out the reaction enough to take the "snap" out of it?

 What I am trying to achieve is a very smooth, even rolling ball that just rolls hard on the backs without jerking too hard at the breakpoint.
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Traumatize

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Re: Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help
« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2005, 03:38:36 PM »
The hyde is a naturally rolly ball so it will not snap witha pin at 5".  And yes, the weighthole will tame the reaction down on the backend as well.  I have seen a bunch of hydes, and the better reactions had pins further from the axis, with the cg kicked with a weighthole.
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Juggernaut

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Re: Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2005, 03:50:26 PM »
T,

  Thanks for the help! sounds like I should go with the longer pin, an arc cg placement, and possibly a flare reducing weighthole to bring it into specs.

 The ball has a 3 1/4 inch pin and 3 1/2 oz top, so it shouldn't be too hard to get what you are talking about.

 Thanks again,
   Darreyl


  All suggestion will be taken into account. It will be next week before I actually drill it. I'm going to think this one through and get it right!
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charlest

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Re: Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help
« Reply #5 on: September 06, 2005, 11:57:08 AM »
I kind of like the idea of a 5" pin. I've been doing that on a few balls lately; a few have the pin above the bridge, most have it below.

I don't think the Hyde flares a lot; so, I'm not sure a weight hole inside your PAP to reduce flare will do a lot of good. The 5" pin position will reduce flare in any case; that is mostly why they get decent length. To keep it less flippy (Hyde is not a flippy ball in general), you might edge the CG into the thumb positive quadrant slightly. a Weight hole there might add a little flare and help reduce the length.

On the other end of the spectrum, a 3"x5" drilling adds a sense of control and reduced backend, but might need some polish to get the required length (maybe not as much as 2000 grit you proposed above), depending on your release/delivery factors. I have an early rolling pearl, the Brunswick Red/Black Monster, drilled that way and it works great. A 2"x2" drilling might be too early and too mild a backend, again, a lot depends on your release/delivery and the oil pattern.

FYI recently I have tried placing the pin (on Columbia balls exactly between the finger holes & kicking the CG out 1/2" to 1.5". Worked great so far on several balls. You can do this with Columbia because the pin goes all the way through to the core. (At least it did on the 2 or 3 I've tried so far.) This gives me kind of a strong arc and no flip even with a Messenger Ti pearl. Thinking of trying it on a Messenger Traction and  CrunchTime next.
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Juggernaut

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Re: Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help
« Reply #6 on: September 06, 2005, 02:41:15 PM »
quote:

On the other end of the spectrum, a 3"x5" drilling adds a sense of control and reduced backend, but might need some polish to get the required length (maybe not as much as 2000 grit you proposed above), depending on your release/delivery factors. I have an early rolling pearl, the Brunswick Red/Black Monster, drilled that way and it works great. A 2"x2" drilling might be too early and too mild a backend, again, a lot depends on your release/delivery and the oil pattern.

FYI recently I have tried placing the pin (on Columbia balls exactly between the finger holes & kicking the CG out 1/2" to 1.5". Worked great so far on several balls. You can do this with Columbia because the pin goes all the way through to the core. (At least it did on the 2 or 3 I've tried so far.) This gives me kind of a strong arc and no flip even with a Messenger Ti pearl. Thinking of trying it on a Messenger Traction and  CrunchTime next.


  Charlest,
   Saw your advice and you say a 2 x 2 drill would start too soon and be too mild in the backend. The polish I mentioned was to help it skid through the heads( nullifying some of the "start too soon" mode) and I want a mild backend, albeit this is a guess as to whether or not it will have enough backend to carry. That is one of my problems, almost everything I drill goes wild on the backends. I have a slower speed and too da*n many revs. I've tried to cut them back, but the release doesn't feel "clean".

  Also, had a blue/oyster wicked with the pin directly between the fingers, cg out 3/4 in. and HATED that ball. I never did get it to work. I hated it so bad that I am almost afraid of the delta 1. It looks almost identical to me as the blue/oyster wicked. I know it is a different cover, but those colors give me flashbacks!

 Something else I've thought about since I originated this post is, what about a 5 inch pin placement and a NEGATIVE shift of the cg, leaving the ball with a bit of negative sideweight? Saw an article on a similar drill like this and the article said it was a control drill for a cranker. Can't remember where I saw it now, but the ball was set up with a long, high pin position, a negative shift of the cg, and the weighthole was on the negative side of the ball above the bowtie to remove the excess negative weight
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charlest

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Re: Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help
« Reply #7 on: September 06, 2005, 03:27:53 PM »
quote:

  Charlest,
   Saw your advice and you say a 2 x 2 drill would start too soon and be too mild in the backend. The polish I mentioned was to help it skid through the heads( nullifying some of the "start too soon" mode) and I want a mild backend, albeit this is a guess as to whether or not it will have enough backend to carry. That is one of my problems, almost everything I drill goes wild on the backends. I have a slower speed and too da*n many revs. I've tried to cut them back, but the release doesn't feel "clean".


If you feel that strongly, AND you're sure about your PAP, then,by all means, try the 2x2; you can always re-drill. 2" pin-to-PAP will flare as much (technically speaking) as a 5" pin to-PAP, BUT will hook much sooner.
FYI I am also in that bad ratio of revs to ball speed, but have been working the past 2 years to cut down my rev rate; I am very close now. Don;t giv eup on that.

quote:

  Also, had a blue/oyster wicked with the pin directly between the fingers, cg out 3/4 in. and HATED that ball. I never did get it to work. I hated it so bad that I am almost afraid of the delta 1. It looks almost identical to me as the blue/oyster wicked. I know it is a different cover, but those colors give me flashbacks!


Funny. but I hear you. The Wicked was a bad ball for about 95% of the people who tried it. I didn't but always wanted to just because of the color.

Believe me that drilling has worked for me. If you find a test scrap Columbia/Track/AMF ball one day, try it.

quote:

 Something else I've thought about since I originated this post is, what about a 5 inch pin placement and a NEGATIVE shift of the cg, leaving the ball with a bit of negative sideweight? Saw an article on a similar drill like this and the article said it was a control drill for a cranker. Can't remember where I saw it now, but the ball was set up with a long, high pin position, a negative shift of the cg, and the weighthole was on the negative side of the ball above the bowtie to remove the excess negative weight
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Never tried that; don't forget the actual side weights do not make much difference. The difference is the weight hole, where it is, the size of it, and how it affects the shape of the core. This is for symmetric cores, like the Hyde's.
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thedjs

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Re: Drilling a HYDE- Need some practical help
« Reply #8 on: September 06, 2005, 03:49:48 PM »
I have a Hyde and use it a lot on medium heavy conditions.  (Really I have 2 of these but one is not drilled yet).  My style is slow speed and low to average revs.  I don't know a lot about drilling but the pin is located 3 3/8" from the pap and is below and to the right of the ring finger. I usually put on a coat of "Control It" after every 10 to 15 games.  That seems to work well for me.

The ball reads the mid lane very well and does not over-react.  It has a nice controllable arc type reaction.  Not a big hooker for me but a great ball for a down and in type shot, which I like to throw.  Does come back if you miss right.  

Hope this helps some.

 

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