Author Topic: Drilling for ZR40 (Read 1078 times)

elew · « **on:** March 15, 2006, 01:52:27 PM »

I've read some great reviews on the ZR40 and I'm thinking about buying one. My question is how to drill the ball. I don't understand the differ between the pin above the finger or belong the finger. And whatlane condition would the pin above or below be suited for.

Pin_Daddy · « **Reply #1 on:** March 15, 2006, 10:30:07 PM »

Pin positioning above or below the fingers generally dictates the length the ball will go before breaking. Lower pins tend to break earlier whereas higher pins retain energy to break later.

Generally speaking you want a ball to retain energy longer (IE higher pin) if you are planning to use it on a dryer oil condition. Lower pins that get the ball to break and roll sooner are generally suited better for more oily conitions.

IMO the lower pin will afford you the most versatility with a ZR40. Less chance of the ball skidding to far. The very nature of the ball/coverstock provides enough length for most conditions and doesn't need to be added on to.
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Yeah. You know, I had a guy in Jackson county. He had a little drum circle in his backyard. It turned into a drum circle four miles in diameter. You get a few hippies playing drums and next thing you know, you got yourself a colony.

charlest · « **Reply #2 on:** March 16, 2006, 05:21:06 AM »

quote:
I've read some great reviews on the ZR40 and I'm thinking about buying one. My question is how to drill the ball. I don't understand the differ between the pin above the finger or belong the finger. And what lane condition would the pin above or below be suited for.

The difference between pin above and under the bridge is ONLY with respect to the same ball. (High Trackers, those with PAPs above 5 3/4", have their own sets of worries when it comes to pin placement.) You have to know the ball to begin with. The ZR40 already gets longer length than your average resin pearl. So placing the pin above the bridge area can be dangerous.

Pin above the bridge will TEND to get slightly more length than pins below the bridge area, but JUST AS IMPORTANTLY, they also go through the hook cycle more quickly, making the transition more abruptly. So, the hook shape is more like a hockey stick than an arc, thus making it harder to control and more speed sensitive.

The higher your track, the less axis tilt you have, the more ball speed yo uhave, the less rotation you have at your releae point, the less you have to be concerned about these factors. If you have more axis tilt than average, less ball speed, more rotation and/or a lower track, the greater an effect these factors will have.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
(That includes me too, at times!

)

tekneek · « **Reply #3 on:** March 16, 2006, 10:09:08 AM »

Pin position is realitive to length, as Charles has stated. From what I have seen in my game is less than 2" pin position there is very little difference in length with a pearl ball. I have two Thing Returns both have same drilling, the difference is one pin under ring the other pin over I can not detect much difference in length gained or lost between the two layouts, what I do see is the quicker transistion from hook to roll in the pin up ball. For that reason I never drill a pearl with the pin up, nothing higher than ring finger. Due to core in the Zr40 and the length the cover gives you I see no need for pin up in my game with this ball. It was designed for natural length ( all ready in the ball )with a more than average controlled recovery or backend movement, the key word being controlled. Not snappy as in other pearls, with controlled violence at the pin deck. IMO the best ball D/T has produced to date.
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Steve
Stars N Strikes Pro Shop
www.dynothane.com

Capt Ramius "Vacilli, give me one ping, and one ping only"

Author Topic: Drilling for ZR40 (Read 1078 times)

elew

Drilling for ZR40

Pin_Daddy

Re: Drilling for ZR40

charlest

Re: Drilling for ZR40

tekneek

Re: Drilling for ZR40