Author Topic: What layout should I try next on my High Energy? (Read 2686 times)

legend4life95 · « **on:** June 29, 2005, 03:51:08 AM »

I don't like pin under. It starts a little too soon with it dull and if I polish it, it's scoots too far. I just have'nt liked the reaction I get from the three balls I've ever had drilled pin below. I thought it might work for me this time, but I just don't like it. I want a little more length and then strong move on back. Should I maybe try pin right of ring? Would that make much of a difference? I thought about just getting rid of it, but I may try another drill. Here is a pic and my info is in profile.
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/15266/hefront.jpg

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****Kids in the back seat cause accidents; accidents in the back seat cause kids.****

jimensminger · « **Reply #1 on:** June 29, 2005, 11:55:26 AM »

does it have a balance hole,..can't tell,....and give me the statics..jim

Goof1073 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 29, 2005, 02:00:04 PM »

almost looks like there is one down in the Thumb quadrant Jim...unless it's a reflection of something?

I have mine drilled at basically a 5 x 4 with the pin above my fingers and a weight hole on my PAP. Ball rolls great for me with a good amount of length and finish. I first thought about polishing the ball...but I'm glad that I didn't.
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-Chris: DJ's Pro Shop : Auburn, MA

legend4life95 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 29, 2005, 02:25:23 PM »

No weight hole. Here are the specs on the ball before drilling.

15lbs.4oz
Top weight 3.04 oz
Pin 2.5-3 inch

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****Kids in the back seat cause accidents; accidents in the back seat cause kids.****

jimensminger · « **Reply #4 on:** June 29, 2005, 05:14:49 PM »

Here's what I would do,..
looking at the drill, and the beginning top weight,3oz, I'd say that that ball weighs out with about 7/8 oz of thumb weight, and a little side, maybe 1/4 or so. Lifts and a thumb slug usually remove about 2 ounces,..so I'm guessing the ball still has about an ounce of top weight...
what I'd do is drill a hole (from cut to cut) 2" right of the thumb, about a 7/8 diameter, and remove at least 1 ounce,...I'm old school,..and thumb weight will start the ball reading early,..the hole will get the ball down the lane farther,..and increase flare,..hence more backend...I would also pitch the hole about 1/2 directly at the pin, and a little to the right, so not to chance hitting the bottom of your thumb hole,...I'd then take all the polish off using spinner and redish automobile rubbing compound, (Walmart), and clean with a wet towel. Then throw the ball,..adjust the surface to what you want a little at a time...

janderson · « **Reply #5 on:** June 29, 2005, 06:53:59 PM »

You could just take the entire layout, move everything up until the pin is over the fingers and move it out so that your pin is a little closer to your positivie axis point. The ball has a fairly strong backend right out of the box. With the drill pictured, it should still have a good backend reaction assuming you haven't sanded it down from box condition.

Are you able to make surface adjustments while keeping the lane conditions the same? In other words, do you have access to a pro shop in a bowling center where you can make surface adjustments and immediately test the ball?

I ask because too often I see bowlers complaining about a new ball having no back end when they're throwing it on a longer pattern with a bunch of carrydown or throwing it on a pattern with a burnt midlane. You'll likely need more flare (move the pin) if you want the ball to have backend in carrydown and you'll need to polish it if you want to get through burnt midlanes (the ball looks matte to me in the picture).

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J.J. "Waterola Kid" Anderson, the bLowling King : Kill the back row

legend4life95 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2005, 09:50:46 PM »

Thanks fellas! I may try Jims suggestion first instead of moving the whole drill down. So Jim, would that hole make ALOT of difference in backend?

As for the current coverstock prep...I had taken it down to 600 grit dull to see what it would do on heavy oil in sport league. Then I brought it back to 800 then used clean n sheen on it(1200 grit)to get the scratches off and then lightly hit it with a grey scotchbrite pad to take a little of the shine back off. So, I would call it 1000 grit matte I guess.

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****Kids in the back seat cause accidents; accidents in the back seat cause kids.****

Edited on 6/29/2005 9:45 PM

jimensminger · « **Reply #7 on:** June 30, 2005, 08:47:02 AM »

define "ALOT", I think you'll see more length and backend..I have a Vendetta Blk/Red that I liked a lot that had that drill,..except, it moved a little too early, which was what it was supposed to do with a lower pin,..I was wanting the ball to go a little longer, and store up longer,..Del Ballard suggested the low hole, and the surface adjustment,...the ball is still in my bag...

To change the ball completely, a plug and redrill would probably work,..what I was suggesting was a possible alternative. I don't plug and redrill balls,..I don't like, nor can I use them plugged and redrilled. Also that devalues the ball in case ya want to trade it,..and that maybe a perfect drill for the right condition,..or for another person.

legend4life95 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 30, 2005, 10:48:28 AM »

Thanks! I'll give this a try soon and let you know how it worked.

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****Kids in the back seat cause accidents; accidents in the back seat cause kids.****

charlest · « **Reply #9 on:** June 30, 2005, 07:18:53 PM »

quote:
define "ALOT", I think you'll see more length and backend..I have a Vendetta Blk/Red that I liked a lot that had that drill,..except, it moved a little too early, which was what it was supposed to do with a lower pin,..I was wanting the ball to go a little longer, and store up longer,..Del Ballard suggested the low hole, and the surface adjustment,...the ball is still in my bag...

To change the ball completely, a plug and redrill would probably work,..what I was suggesting was a possible alternative. I don't plug and redrill balls,..I don't like, nor can I use them plugged and redrilled. Also that devalues the ball in case ya want to trade it,..and that maybe a perfect drill for the right condition,..or for another person.

Jim,

I like your idea of the weight hole to remove top/thumb weight; if not too far off, it might also reduce flare, which will to increase length.

Don't forget that, according to his profile, his PAP is ONLY 4" over; so, that drilling is probably as strong as one can get. Pin over the ring finger or even over the center of the bridge will probably still be very strong for him.

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Bowling: Just like hand grenades and horse shoes, you only have to get close.
Life: Deal with what is.

jimensminger · « **Reply #10 on:** June 30, 2005, 09:11:05 PM »

I know I was just trying to give him a little more length without the whole plug and redrill thing,..and still get it to roll right,...

legend4life95 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 30, 2005, 10:15:59 PM »

Jim, you say the hole will add a little legth and add flare...which gives me more backend.

Charles, you're saying it will reduce flare and give more length. If it reduces the flare, it's gonna take even more away from backend.

Which one of these is correct??

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****Kids in the back seat cause accidents; accidents in the back seat cause kids.****

charlest · « **Reply #12 on:** July 01, 2005, 05:20:33 AM »

quote:
Jim, you say the hole will add a little legth and add flare...which gives me more backend.

Charles, you're saying it will reduce flare and give more length. If it reduces the flare, it's gonna take even more away from backend.

Which one of these is correct??

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****Kids in the back seat cause accidents; accidents in the back seat cause kids.****

Usually a hole within your PAP will reduce flare. SInce this hole is within your PAP (as a distance from grip center) yet is low & next to your thumb, I think it may be hard to predict precisely what it will do. It will reduce top weight and thumb weight. It is STILL an excellent starting point. Experiment with such weight holes and surface changes before re-drilling them ball.

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Bowling: Just like hand grenades and horse shoes, you only have to get close.
Life: Deal with what is.

Author Topic: What layout should I try next on my High Energy? (Read 2686 times)

legend4life95

What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

jimensminger

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

Goof1073

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

legend4life95

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

jimensminger

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

janderson

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

legend4life95

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

jimensminger

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

legend4life95

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

charlest

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

jimensminger

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

legend4life95

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?

charlest

Re: What layout should I try next on my High Energy?