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Author Topic: Suggested surface prep for Element...  (Read 1136 times)

J_Mac

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Suggested surface prep for Element...
« on: August 12, 2005, 10:18:55 AM »
This ball is very much a love hate ball for me.  I shouldn't have scuffed it up the last time I cleaned it.  It's a rolly drill as it is and even a grey pad, by hand, is a little much where I bowl.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAwNTU4ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

I'm looking for a surface appropriate for my layout, speed, and hand that would work on a slightly less than medium oil house shot.  Polish will likely be the trick here, but what underlying grit would work best or be a good middle ground.

Info in profile, thanks guys...
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American beer is like making love in a canoe. It's f*cking close to water. - Monty Python

If God had intended us to drink beer, He would have given us stomachs. - David Daye

 

charlest

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Re: Suggested surface prep for Element...
« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2005, 07:49:37 PM »
My thoughts, FWIW:

1. Underlying grit is only appropriate if you use a non-grit polish. Otherwise, with grit polishes, you get what your eyeball says you have (generally 1000 - 2000 range).

2. I'm assuming your words imply you'd rather not re-drill this ball. Sorry, but with your release/delivery specs, (my opinion is) that drill makes a very early rolling, very rolly ball (as you did say, and as my experience with mine corroborates.)  even earlier and even rollier, if that's possible.
Basically I wonder, with that low a pin position, if you'd get all the utility out of that ball that it is capable of giving.
(Almost as if you're trying to make a ball designed for medium to medium-heavy oil, into one for handling medium-heavy to heavy oil.)

2B. I believe you need a lot more tilt and 60+ degrees of axis rotation in a release to all that ball drilled that way get the length it needs to save up energy for good power at the pin deck.

2C. I'd (suggest) sand(ing) it to 800 grit and then applying either Brunswick's High Gloss polish or Ultimate's Black Magic (both have no grit). I prefer Brunswick's myself. Use a spinner and put a good high gloss polish on it with Brunswick's; put a light polish on it using Black Magic (then put a little more on it at a time, using Black Magic, if you cannot get Brunswick's.)

2C alternative: Using a grit polish like Storm's Xtra Shine ( I kind of like it a lot; it's very flexible.) put on a shine in the neighborhood of 1200- 1500 grit, if you can guesstimate that.

If at any time you feel like redrilling it, I'd suggest that you try putting the pin about 4" - 4.5" from PAP and 2.5" - 3" above the midline.
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Bowling: Just like hand grenades and horse shoes, you only have to get close.
Life: Deal with what is.


Edited on 8/12/2005 7:45 PM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

J_Mac

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Re: Suggested surface prep for Element...
« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2005, 07:20:02 PM »
Thank you...  I'm not really interested in redrilling it since it is a unique layout for me.  It has it's place, but I need to get it back to something that will store energy a little longer.  I'll certainly try your suggestions.  

I may have had it finished with a rubbing compound, what are your thoughts on that?
--------------------
American beer is like making love in a canoe. It's f*cking close to water. - Monty Python

If God had intended us to drink beer, He would have given us stomachs. - David Daye

charlest

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Re: Suggested surface prep for Element...
« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2005, 09:04:04 PM »
Not a bad experiment.

Generic rubbing compounds (which don't specify a grit finish) will provide a 600-800 grit finish with enough polish to clear heads easily. Believe it or not, that was actually the original finish on the Danger Zone. (Some rubbing compunds, notably 3M, have several different levels of grit. I use one that can finish a ball to 1500 grit and polish it. IF you use that one, try a light coating/application of polish first; you can always apply more with heavier pressure, if needed.))

I think it's a safe start. If you don't get enough length AND you've used the generic rubbing compund, then try an additional coating using generic automotive polishing compund. (If you've used the grit specific rubbing compund, like 3M's, I would not go any finer.)
--------------------
Bowling: Just like hand grenades and horse shoes, you only have to get close.
Life: Deal with what is.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

J_Mac

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Re: Suggested surface prep for Element...
« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2005, 09:14:52 PM »
Since it's late and the weekend I've opted to hand polish it with Ebonite's particle polish, leaving the slightly scuffed surface as an underlayment.  We'll see how that goes.

Thanks for the helpful information as usual.

On edit - This really seemed to do the trick.  The last time I polished this ball on a spinner with something other than rubbing compound it really killed the reaction.  Even with a chewed up summer shot I started playing about 20 to 10 and moved my feet left as need be.
--------------------
American beer is like making love in a canoe. It's f*cking close to water. - Monty Python

If God had intended us to drink beer, He would have given us stomachs. - David Daye


Edited on 8/14/2005 0:44 AM