Post by: admin on December 31, 1969, 06:00:00 PM
Reactions: Longer than The One, yet very strong backend ball motion
Coverstock: GB 10.7 sanded with 4000-grit Abralon
Core: SR Symmetric Mass Bias
Length: 27
Hook: 39
Break Point Angle : 10.25
Mass Bias Rating : 0.009
Post by: Jeff Ussery on June 20, 2006, 01:34:05 PM
Preferred Spin Axis to PAP Distance: 5"
Balance Hole: None
Surface Preparation: Scuffed with Gray Scotch Brite Pad
What I Was Looking For in this Ball and Layout:
After practicing with all of the previous balls that I had drilled, it was obvious that I had one enormous hole in my arsenal before traveling to Las Vegas. I was lacking a medium range, smooth breakpoint reaction that would allow me to read lane oil, pattern, length, and overall reaction. While some of my other balls are outstanding pieces of equipment, it's always best to find a nice smooth reaction to help you read lane patterns.
What I Ended Up With in this Ball and Layout:
The SR300 performs just like you would expect a lower differential ball to perform in the first 20 feet. No issues with getting the ball through the heads. The slightly higher rg and lower differential, combined with the GB 10.7 coverstock allow this ball to just glide through the front of the lane. This is definitely a trait that I'm looking for in a smooth reacting bowling ball. I don't want the ball checking early like my Infinite One or Big One would. The SR300 is a champ in this department.
Looking for that smoother reaction, I chose a little stronger pin than normal for me (4 3/4"). I typically use pins in the 5 1/4" to 5 3/4" range to cut down the track flare and delay reaction. But when you are looking for a smoother reaction, you want the ball to read the lane slightly earlier and lose some of that axis rotation. The SR300 flares approximately 3" for me in this pin position. By using a stronger pin position than normal, I am able to get the ball to "burn" off some of the length it builds through the first 20 feet of the lane.
I chose a 5" preferred spin axis to also create a smooth breakpoint. Notice that this is the same layout as the Infinite One that I've reviewed. The overall shape of the two balls is actually somewhat similar. But there are two major differences between the balls. First, the coverstocks are radically different in aggressiveness and preparation. While I left the Infinite One at the box condition 500 Grit Abralon, I used a gray scotch brite pad on the SR300. I was looking for a nice smooth breakpoint, and gray scotch brite gives me this kind of look down lane. Second, the core strength between the two balls is much different, as the SR300 has only a .038" differential. I knew that the ball was going to flare much less, creating less friction, which creates less hook potential.
Due to its lower flare potential, the SR300 is simply not built to be a larger hook potential ball. So why try to make it into that? The SR300 is a perfect benchmark type reaction that allows the bowler to read the lane condition. Powerhouse Training Clinics students have learned about lane play techniques and know the value of this type of bowling ball. This is the type of reaction that can put you into the right part of the lane condition to optimize your scoring.
Length from 1-10 (Early to Late)
5.0
Breakpoint Move from 1-10 (Smooth to Sharp)
6.0
Overall Hook from 1-10 (Low to High)
7.0
A picture of this ball and the layout can be viewed on our website if you are interested.
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Jeff Ussery
Powerhouse Training Clinics
www.proshoptraining.com
Post by: strikingresults-atl on June 25, 2006, 01:35:02 AM
mb 55deg or 5 1/4 from pap
weight hole was straight across center of grip 4 1/2 pitched at 1 1/4 away
Sr300 was very clean through the fronts picked up in the midlane and very angular on the backend.I left the surface at 4000 abralon.I have to say i was very surprised by the backend.I used a overtime as a comparison.Overtime is 5 1/2 inch pin with the cg kicked right with a weight hole.Overtime finish is Ebonite factory finish polish.Sr300 picked up earlier and more backend.
Great job by Ron and the boys at ebonite.
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Dannial Cohen
Ebonite Regional staffer/turbo
Post by: Floridarevmachine on June 28, 2006, 02:51:07 PM
Thanks Ebonite
Post by: MattCCTProShop on June 29, 2006, 02:42:55 PM
Pin at 4 3/4 and MB at 4 1/4
Style = Cranker
ball speed at pins about 17 mph
visual look = pin above bridge and MB just right of thumb
I drilled the SR300 as a ball change from my Track Machine with the same drilling. The box surface on the SR300 is 4000 abralon sanded (really smooth). There was too much surface for me. Ball roll great but hooked a little more than predicted. I polished it with Ebonite PowerHouse Factory Finish polish and there you have it. This ball now goes forever but recovers really well. Long and Strong Baby!!! If I didnt have my Machine I would use this at box finish as my go to ball.
Thanks, Matt at CCT Pro Shop
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EXXXpress Your Game
"Good Luck and Good Bowling"
My Arsenal:
Track Machine
Ebonite SR300
Hammer Doom
Tropical Storm
(spare ball? I dont need no stinkin spare ball!!!)
Post by: Kong 69 on July 11, 2006, 06:49:18 PM
I did throw a couple of practice games earlier in the day on a fresh shot and the first ball thrown up 2'nd arrow had a strong arc on the end and went brooklyn. So this ball will hook if you have some clean backends. This ball does exactly what I wanted. Easy to predict what it is going to do and doesn't overreact on the backend.
Post by: kdeuce300rev on July 15, 2006, 01:33:18 PM
--------------------
Keith Boyd
Ebonite Regional Staff Member
revsproshop@comcast.net
Post by: MStanton on September 01, 2006, 05:08:14 PM
Post by: rmm300 on September 14, 2006, 01:36:18 PM
Post by: dizzyfugu on October 08, 2006, 12:14:28 PM
Why this ball?
I chose the SR 300 to (hopefully) fill a gap in my 1st choice arsenal for the upcoming season 2006/7 that had been filled by several 2nd or 3rd drill balls before, e. g. a Hammer Vicious Attack, a Trauma and an Eraser Particle Pearl by Storm. The idea was to have a single ball to go between my MoRich Shock & Awe and Sahara, with control and good length when the Shock & Awe would start burning up in the mid lane but still with too much oil for the Sahara to work properly.
I was looking for more length through the ball's design, so I thought a solid reactive ball with a higher RG to retain more energy on late lanes would do the job. From current balls on the market, the SR 300 from Ebonite’s new Gold Performance Series with an RG of 2.58 (for 15 lbs.), a differential of only 0.038 and a low asym. RG diff. of just 0.009, plus the GB 10.7 coverstock from The One, looked like a promising base.
Brunswick’s BVP Nemesis/Wizard with a sheen surface was also a potential option, but since the BVP core never worked well for me in trials, I rejected this option. Additionally, I was (and am) impressed by the Scalien core with the added flip nuggets in the late Xcel balls. Since the SR 300 bears a derivate, I felt positive about this ball’s potential. My good experience so far with Ebonite balls and other users’ comments about its length and back end qualities ensured my decision (without having seen a SR 300 actually thrown, though).
About me:
Style = Stroker/mild Tweener, right-handed
Speed = 14-14,5 mph
PAP = 5" & 7/8"^
Axis tilt = 18,7°
Revs = 250-300 RPM at release
For more details, check out my profile, please.
The ball and its setup:
I got my SR 300 directly from the US through a private import opportunity and had it drilled by Michael Kraemer in Duisburg, Germany. Again, credits and many thanks for drilling support and expertise, as well as to Florian Streppel for his additional service.
My biggest surprise came when I opened the box: the SR 300 is a pearl ball, even though the material is not of the typical shiny, translucent pearl type. Its surface has a rather opaque, mother-of-pearl appearance – and only in the green and blue resin, the black material is (or appears) solid.
From the catalogue pictures as well as from the official ball description, one would never know or guess that this was a pearl ball? Here, Ebonite could IMHO improve information for the customers’ sake – I thought it was a pure solid, just like The One (since the ball is advertised as having "the same" coverstock).
But back to the setup: My SR 300 specimen is 15 lbs. 4 ounces, with 3 ounces top weight before drilling. Pin distance is 2¾”, the CG kicked out ½" towards PAP from the line between pin and MB marker.
With the slight extra length to expect through the pearl additives, higher RG and medium RG differential, the pin was set lower than on my low RG stuff. With the top weight and CG shift to the right, the least complicated position was to simply drill out the pin and place it “in” the ring finger hole, 4½” from my PAP. To take out some nervousness at the breakpoint, the mild MB was not positioned purely stacked, rather at about 80° from PAP, ending up at 2” in a 4 o'clock position from the thumb hole and 3” from PAP.
Due to the CG shift to the right, the CG ended up 1½“ towards PAP from grip center. A 3” deep and 1” wide x-hole was necessary to make the ball legal, placed in the PAP area.
===========
===o=*=====
===========
======#==x=
===========
====O======
=======+===
* = Pin (in ring finger hole position)
# = CG
+ = MB marker
x = X-Hole above PAP
Actual drilled ball picture
Silicone oval finger inserts and a urethane thumb slug completed the drilling job (all black, looks great). Surface remained OOB: 4.000 grit Abralon, which yields and almost glossy surface without polish and promotes length through the heads without being as nervous as a polished ball when it hits dry ground.
The testing program:
35' long, 6:1 ratio gutter-to-gutter crown pattern:
Knippis Bowling Palace in Oberhausen with a new, 2005 Brunswick AnvilLane surface, and the shot still fresh - even though I guess that the pattern was rather short, somewhere between 32-35' only. Oil was also light, only a total of 14 units.
I tried the SR 300 on the same occasion as my new Slate Blue Gargoyle, but as my first ball out of the bag. My initial attempt was a line across 13th board at the arrows and my right shoe tip on 26th board. But I immediately recognized that the SR 300 would move well once it hit dry ground. So I moved ever deeper, and ended up with a surprisingly deep line standing at 33rd board and playing a wide belly shot across 16th board at the arrows as my target, and still hitting well. Whoa!
The SR 300 was all back end! On the short but fresh lane it moved almost as much as my Shock & Awe, with a similar sharp breakpoint on the 7th board at about 40' down the lane. But it would rev up late(r) and dive into the pocket with emphasis. This was much more overall reaction than I expected, and my first result with it here was a nice 210 Clean Game.
On the fresh shot I recognized quickly that the GB 10.7 coverstock sucks oil very well - after only 3 games I had to switch to a milder ball because I felt that the original line would start to break away. Any oil on the ball surface disappeared quickly, too, so wiping the ball directly after it came out of the ball return was a must.
38' medium to medium-heavy shot, buffed to 40-42', 1994 Brunswick AnvilLane:
My club house and frequent venue for training with a 1994 Brunswick synth surface. Current main oil is 22 units, mostly flat between 12th and 27th board, with a 3 board wide, sharp oil edge when fresh and a buffed outside zone which does not yield much grip close in the gutter proximity. Also has a grippy, clean back end when fresh.
On a fresh shot I found the SR 300 to be most handy while playing in/through the buffed zone - aiming at 13th board at the arrows and standing at 26th board with my right shoe tip, the ball would go very long (45' I guess) and then snap back into the pocket with a short, dedicated and controllable hook. Carry was very good, lots of messengers crossing the deck and wiping out any leftover resistance
I also tried a deeper shot here (across 3rd arrow), but as long as the ball would go through the higher oil volume in the lane's middle area it would not recover well and its entry angle became too shallow for my game to be effective.
In late games the ball was not that convincing, too. The GB 10.7 coverstock, even as a pearl, has OOB a LOT of grip to offer. More than I expected or asked for! I tried it when the oil was ridden down after a total of 20+ games by mutliple players and lines in training and this was not the ball's home ground. Even though it got through the heads well due to its high RG, the strong coverstock gripped as soon as it hit dry ground and left the ball a bit powerless in the back end. It wanted to rev up, but it seemed to have some brakes on.
Fresh 36' medium crown pattern:
...on 2004 Qubica synth surface, at Treff Bowling in Duisburg. I am not sure about the exact pattern specs, I guess it had some kind of Xmas tree shape beyond the arrows while the heads were oiled from gutter to gutter. Again, I had most success playing across 13th board at the arrows - deeper shots would not recover well. Closer to the gutter I had the ball move in much too early, probably due to the shorter oil.
Despite several attempts I did not get the good and consistent ball reaction as in previous tests. I had a lot of 2-8-10 leaves (3 or 4 in 2 games). So far, this was the only occasion when I felt that the SR 300 would suffer from over/under reactions, scratching the good impression I had so far with this ball. Could have been carrydown, since I pulled out the SR 300 after having made 3 games with my Shock & Awe on a deeper line (Across 3rd arrow) and the SR 300 line crossed the S&A path in the midlane.
Some conclusions:
The SR 300 lived up to my mixed expectations very well. Overall, I rate it very high, and I really like the ball's performance, especially on fresh lanes. I give it a 8.5 out of 10 rating, because it is useable on a wide range of conditions and lines - even though it has a clear limit on the dry and oily side of the lane condition spectrum.
The SR 300 goes very long and is all back end. It goes even longer than my Sahara! With the high RG, it has a lot of energy left when it hits the dry.
But even though you get it far down the lane without problems, the strong coverstock sets limits. You definitively need some head oil for the SR 300. You can battle it down with force and speed, and in this "disciple" it works recognizably better than lower RG balls. But at least some medium oil and 35' of it are IMHO necessary to have fun with the SR 300 and to exploit its great back end potential. Maybe some polish can improve its usability on less/short oil? I'll have try.
The SR300 has a sharp breakpoint, but it is surprisingly easy to control as long as you have enough oil in the lane's front end. So far, it has not been jumpy for me on any condition I tried it, just a little erratic on what I think was carrydown, and long oil is also not a good company for the OOB surface and the high RG core.
I haven't tried a coarser finish yet, but I am in doubt if the ball is suitable for more than medium conditions at all? As long as the backend is clean, the SR 300 will turn the corner. Just bag it when you feel that carrydown occurs or the oil is too thin. A sheen/matte surface will surely tame down the break point - but this ball is not an oil roller.
Overall, the SR 300 is IMHO anything an ambitious league bowler who does not face extreme conditions might ask for. It is OOB best suited for medium conditions with a clean back end, and a great THS choice, even on lighter patterns as long as they are fresh.
Lane utility for tested ball (pattern length vs. oil volume):
|S M L
|h e o
|o d n
|r . g
|t
_______
|0 + +| Light volume
|X X X| Medium volume
|X + 0| Heavy volume
Legend:
X = Best suited with effective control & carry
+ = Fairly suited (works, somehow, but lacks control)
0 = Unsuited (ineffective, either slips or burns up)
The chart concept is borrowed from Storm's 2003 print catalogue. Surface prep and drillings may change the results, it is just personal experience with my style and the reviewed ball
Among the current balls from the major manufacturers the SR 300 appears to me to be a quite unique offer, combining a high end, state-of-the-art coverstock with a medium RG, a medium-low MB asymmetrical core and a medium-low differential. Overall a nice ball concept. Sad thing that came into my mind is that the SR 300 might be (like its "cousin" the No Limit) a bit overshadowed by the One series?
Crankers will love this ball, because you can put revs on it which will be stored well and delivered late. With some polish, the SR 300 should be a tremendous high rev ball on medium to medium-dry conditions. Strokers with lower speeds like me will also benefit from this ball because it saves energy so well and is very stable in the back end. It could also be a good ball choice for down-and-in players - I had most success so far with a straighter shot between 2nd and 3rd arrow instead of bellying it across the lane and back into the pocket.
The SR 300 in action:
8MB video of the SR 300
This is a newly edited version of a formerly posted video, including additional sequences shot from the gutter when the ball had white markers next to the holes. I hope one can tell what the ball is doing, despite my lofting tendency, low resolution and lighting...
Finally... the looks:
A gem. Yes! The SR 300 is a very pretty ball. For some players only performance might count, but the nice and even blend of slightly pearlized green and blue GB 10.7 material with the high contrast opaque black “blotches” are worth an extra notification. IMHO, Ebonite has a very good hand for designing flashy balls in recent times. If there is something to quibble about, it is IMHO the unimaginative name and logo… those could have been taken from a pharmaceutical product? “SR 300”, what is this supposed to mean? A dietary supplement?
Addendum 02/08/07:
With ongoing experience with this ball, I decided to give it a first surface change. The OOB finish was still lasting (very few nicks so far), but I found the 4.000 grit OOB surface to be too aggressive for the later games I wanted to use this ball for, it read the midlane area too early and burnt out.
Judging the coverstock's strength, it was OOB too close to my Shock & Awe which is supposed to be the next stronger pearl ball in my bag.
To find more length and move it "away" from the S&A I wet sanded the ball to 1.000 grit (grey 3M pad) in a 1st step, then hit it with a 2.000 grit Abralon pad from 4 sides and finally applied Brunswick High Gloss polish on 4 sides. By the way, I also re-painted the very narrow engravings (light blue for new looks
) in the course of the surface change because they easily catch and hold dirt.After some tests in January and February 2007 on light/short and medium patterns, I think I made the right decision. On a short 30' pattern with my former OOB line, the polished ball left stone 10 pins in a row - a sign that the entry angle had changed. As a consequence, I have to line up 1 or 2 boards closer to the gutter now, because the SR300 will now go about 4-5' longer before it breaks. It has become much more suitable for medium to light oil. On oil, the ball slips now almost helplessly, but that's not the condition I wanted this new setup for.
With the polish, the breakpoint shape has become even more dramatic: "SNAP" is the right word, a short, hard and dry move. Carry is also (still) phenomenal, you can really see and hear how well the higher RG core saves energy for the back end. Besides, what's really surprising me is the consistency the SR300 still has, despite the glossy finish. I was expecting some spasmic reactions, but, no, not at all. Sure, it needs some dry boards to cling to. But once it gets hold, it moves very predictably. I guess it is the strong coverstock that grabs well, and the polish reduces the simple need for oil in the heads to an appropriate minimum for late games.
Sweet ball! So - if your SR300 appears to burn up: use some high grit base surface and add polish. It is worth a try!
Addendum July 07:
Finally, I sold my SR300. Not because it was a bad ball, but it had been simply too strong for what I originally wanted it for. The GB10.7 was/is very grippy (no sign of ball death), and I am happy to hear that the piece is now successfully wrecking pins in the southern parts of Germany, adn that my above impressions have been confirmed by the new owner who really likes it for its length and pop at the breakpoint.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
Team "X" website & more about me: http://web.mac.com/timlinked/iWeb/X/Thomas.html
"The Future's So Bright I Gotta Wear Shades" - Pat MacDonald
Edited on 26.09.2011 at 7:32 AM
Post by: alaney3 on October 13, 2006, 04:41:22 AM
Pin Placement: 4 inches from PAP in a 10:00 direction from CG
Or about 1 inch and slightly above and to the left of ring finger,
CG Placement: 4 inches from PAP
Same layout as my CROSSFIRE
I had this ball recommended to me by many here on the board as I was wanting a ball for MED to MED light OIL and could not decide between the SR 300 and the BIG TIME PEARL. I also wondered if it would be worth the extra money.
I did change the coverstock to 1500-grit Abralon
an works perfect for me
It is very controllable and the backend the pins just explode!
You will not be disappointed at all in buying this ball.
I been bowling my highest scores this year.
This ball is well worth the money!
Another excellent ball from ebonite!
--------------------
Get your next book here (http://"http://shops.half.ebay.com/ksfrnd77_W0QQ")
My Web site is here (http://"http://members.cox.net/cgoodwin14/")
Post by: Heelsfan74 on October 17, 2006, 11:32:17 AM
Post by: Angelfire on January 01, 2007, 02:43:17 PM
My SR300 has a 3-3 1/2" pin located above the ring finger, CG below it by the gripline, and MB just right of the thumbhole. OOB condition, I polished it up so that I can get some good length and backend from it.
First six games was on synthetic lanes with med to med/heavy conditions. Not much to say except the SR300 was coming up short of the pocket alot because of the amount of oil on the lanes. The only few decent shots I had were playing out and in at the 7 board but had to slow down ball speed to get it going.
Next eight games were on wooden lanes on med/light oil after a league and played a deep inside line to get the ball out. Played around the 18-20 board and making the 13-15 board at breakpoint, I really had to get the ball down there, otherwise it hooked too strong and leaves alot of big splits. Even went as far as the 23 board and it became a little better for me but not for the type of line I normally play it on.
Then on the next six games I played it on, I found the money shot with it. Synthetic lanes medium oil, a little dry in the middle and some oil on the outside with drier backends. Not sure if they oiled it that morning but my SR300 got excellent length and a sharp turn into the pocket. Played my normal line 11-13 board and and 8-10 at breakpoint. Very smooth and didn't overreact as long as I kept my hand positioned behind the ball. It was kind of like bowling in a reverse block or third game finisher in league. Either way, I had much better control that way and it was pretty predictable.
For medium oil THS or tournaments I think this ball would do well one way or another. And with me also getting the RXS300, they should be a really great combo to have.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHyNq97Gc-o
--------------------
Get You Some!
http://www.youtube.com/user/retribution76
Post by: fins4ever88 on January 05, 2007, 10:39:10 PM
Left-handed
16-17 mph
Average Revs (300 RPM guesstimate)
PAP - 4 5/8 over, 3/8 up
Layout: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v399/fins4ever88/SR300/SR300Span.jpg
P = pin, * = CG, B = MB
Characteristics:
Head oil is a must with this ball. This baby is all backend, especially when polished. I have never seen more backend than the SR300. The SR300 is a medium oil ball, though it can handle a little bit more, and a little bit less. When polished, the SR300 will race off the dry. This reaction was a bit uncontrollable for me (but provides for a LOT of fun watching. I got a lot of people saying "WOW, How did that get back!?). I hit the ball with Track's Clean 'N Sheen on a 1000 scotchbrite, and this ball has smoothed out quite a bit, but is still strong in the backend. Reaction reminds me of my old Storm X-Factor Vertigo.
Light Oil - 0/10
No go. This ball will not get down the lane, no way no how.
Never threw it on a light oil pattern yet, but I know I'll only throw it once and it will hook all 40 boards. This thing needs head oil, and without it, it will FLY.
Medium-Light Oil - 7/10
Workable, but you'll have to move to where the oil is.
Threw this ball on my Monday/Friday league where the oil is somewhat scarce. I usually use my Tropical Storm on this shot, but it's having a Grip-Loc system installed, so it was unavailable to me today. Moved to a line a bit deeper than the one I play with the T-Storm, stand on 30 and throw over 10. This is far from my preferred line (10-5). Miss left, the ball would still come in strong (unless I hung it off the gutter). Miss right, the ball would go past brooklyn (didn't do this more than once, thankfully). Carry was ok, left some solid 7s and 8's. Not the right condition, but it's workable at least.
Medium Oil - 9.5/10
Great! Play through the oil, and when it hits the dry it will shoot into the pocket!
This ball is GREAT on medium oil shots. I love the smooth, but VERY strong backend reaction. I use this as my first ball out of the bag at my normal house, and never put it back in the bag throughout league, unless I'm bowling with another lefty on my pair
. The ball reads the mids well, then makes a nice hard reaction.Medium-Heavy Oil - 8/10
Play a more direct line, find the dry and it should be ok!
Ball works fine on a medium-heavy oil shot, just have to move and play my favorite line (10-5). At the OOB condition, I don't think this ball would have fared as well, but at the 1000 scotchbrite, it works pretty nicely.
Heavy Oil - 3/10
Have fun playing a rope.
Find the dry. If you can, hit it at all times, otherwise the ball will just skid. Not ideal at all on this condition.
Overall - 8.5/10
Great ball overall. Great medium oiler, but definitely has it's limits. I simply love it, but I can't wait for my Visionary Immortal Pearl to come in so I can give a comparision.
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---Ryan
Post by: brunswick93 on March 08, 2008, 10:38:15 PM
--------0
------OO
-------cg--0
------O--mb
I got this ball last year and so far it does what it needs to do when I use it. I don't know if this ball is made for oil or dry conditions, but it has worked for me on every one there has been so far. On a medium-heavy shot, i play an inside line and it does a skid/snap reaction. On drier conditions, it hooks a lot. When this ball hits the pocket, it hits hard. Nothing stops it on a good ball. This is a pretty good ball and I would recommend it to anyone who can still find it and for a mid price ball.
HERE ARE SOME PICS OF THIS BALL AND MY OTHERS.
http://www.putfile.com/album/182130
Post by: luckylefty90 on June 25, 2008, 02:49:55 PM
P
0 0
CG
MB O
I'm obviously a lefty, I'm a tweener and like to play just about anywhere, but being a lefty, my favorite is up the boards.
This ball skids quite nice and is very strong but smooth in the backend. I've thrown it on a THS only once so far, but it can open up the lane or just go straight up 7 and hits very well. My friend didn't like the reaction he got and thought the ball died on him, but for me it has been resurfaced once and still rolls awesome.
Next I threw this on the (supposed) nationals shot and tried a couple different lines. I played outside and up the back and I had a little bit of area because of the way this ball recovers, It's great at that. then i tried deep and it was too much friction to be that close to the pocket, but if i let it out it was gone. (expected) the I played the track area and this is where it shined. I went a little faster with my speed and up the back and it would roll smooth in the midlane and the snap right into the pocket and kick the 7 so nice. If you can get your hands on this one, you wont regret it.
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Wrong side is the strong side!