The part that some of you don't realize is just a certain part of the ball touches the lane surface with each individual. Take a tire for instance, you ride on a set of tires and never rotate them as you are susposed too they wear out correct?? Same concept in bowling except you can't change the tire. The track wears and wears and wears and wears until the ball's track becomes plasticized and sometimes you can wear it so long that even resurfacing won't get it back to the reaction you want. Even if you don't wear out the track area you use, you think that there is enough oil on the lane surface to be absorbed into a ball to completely soak it?? Please, the ball only comes in contact with the lane oil for no more than 4-5 seconds most of the time and the players with faster ball speeds get it through the oil faster. Plus you are forgeting about the rest of the ball, do you think that just the track area absorbs oil?
What would happen to polished ball that doesn't absorb oil as quick as a sanded ball if you just sanded the area of the ball that doesn't come in contact with the lane??? Ball still skids, correct?? Now just sand the track area and not the rest of the ball. Ball hooks earlier and more, correct?? Now I DO AGREE that you have to keep a ball clean in order for it to perform at its peak potential, but heat and cold is one major cause of ball death and relates to many balls losing their "Hook". Do you think that all of liquid that comes out of the ball is oil??? You might want to do your homework as far as the reason they call it reactive "resin". Resin can be liquified and can come out of the pores of the ball, therefore when you extract oil you extract resin. Each time you do this the ball's "Reactive" nature is comprosimed as far as having the resin in the cover it needs to react. Do you actually know how bad it is for a ball to experience too many changes in temperature??? Core cracking is the most common thing I have seen and that's just from leaving it in your car in the summer or wintertime. There is prolly and 15-25 degree change in most days of the year from high temp to low temp and a car can magnify that to 25-40 degrees. Now that I have went over all this maybe now you see that there are too many environmental factors to consider in ball death to just blame it on oil. Maybe you should actually contact someone that manufactures and designs them for a living?? Someone like Ron Hickland of Ebonite. I had the pleasure of meeting Ron here in Nashville at one of our pro-shop 101 classes our company hosts and he showed and covered things that I didn't even consider to be true until I actually looked at what he was saying very closely. I have had a Danger Zone (The Original) for over 10 years and I would say that it has 300+ games if not more on it, but I have taken care of the surface and adjusted it many times and it STILL performs like it just came out of the box. That ball still absorbs oil when it sits on the ball return, so saying that a ball doesn't absorb anymore oil than that of 30-40 games or even 100 is just plain crazy. If it really has died and you want to see what's wrong with it if anything, send it back to the manufacturer and tell them of the problem before you say the ball has died. I can tell usually when a person dies cause there is visual evidence, but I can't tell if a bowling ball has died just by looking at it and just by my methods in my shop so I need to get someone else on the case, you know someone who knows how the ball is made and what the coverstock is supposed to do.
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Bowling and women are one in the same....you never know what you gonna get from night to night.....
