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Author Topic: TNV Revival  (Read 3241 times)

floater163

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TNV Revival
« on: October 28, 2008, 05:37:00 AM »
OK I have read the threads on the hot water bath technique and maintaining your equipment etc. etc. and I was skeptical that anything would bring back my reaction for this ball.

I was pretty upset with what was happening. It did not flat out die but it slowly lost some of its hitting power and reaction over time where I was using it on very dry back ends or not at all.  I am not a great bowler by any means but I could tell that this was not the ball it once was and I tried it on several conditions.

Now I will state I do not wipe the ball after each toss nor do I do much maintenance like everybody here says to do.  I will end up buying a new ball every season and sometimes more frequently.  With that said I decided before I left it on the rack I was going to try the things I had heard here.  The first thing I did was I left it out in my driveway in some sunlight and it just poured oil out.  I figured hey this is what everybody stated lets keep going with this so I did this while turning the ball over for a weekend while I was working on my lawn.  I then brought it inside and hit it a bit with a green scotch brite pad (by hand) and put it in my kitchen sink 3 times with the hottest water I could get from my tap until the water was cold.  Lastly, I had some of Beans Polish when he was sending out samples and you just paid for shipping so I put that on by hand.

Well I tried it out and at first I did not think I got much back, however I think I just needed to track things in a bit.  So after several more games the ball is back to hitting very well and reacting well.  I would not say it is like when I got the ball but I actually like it better because it almost drove too hard for me originally.  I shot 660 last week with it which is not great for me but I had a 260 game in there with 11 strikes and a nice open.  I shot 780 last night and if not for an 8 pin and some mental mistakes it should have been an 8.

So for all the posts where I read the TNV is dead in so many games rather then just give up on it like I had done try some of the things on this board they might actually work.

 

OddBalls

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2008, 01:44:54 PM »
Been there done that, ball still died. Yours will too eventually..
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mmcfarland300

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2008, 01:55:09 PM »
quote:
Been there done that, ball still died. Yours will too eventually..
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I'm sure all will at some time in life.  But mines still going strong.

ambi1

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2008, 02:15:18 PM »
no problem with mine either.  The only balls i have that have died actually still hooks but just doesn't carry much anymore.  I could adjust the breakpoint in a little bit tho...

Pantera .. at least 4000 games
Tiger .... ditto.
apex intensity.. 1200 in heavy oil

ball death?? I sometimes think its a myth.

my two cents...
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Gazoo

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #4 on: October 29, 2008, 08:43:08 AM »
Biggest mistake people make is not taking these balls back to factory oob after the oil extraction. In your case, a 600 grit ball with polish, will not react exactly like a 4000 grit ball with polish(factory oob for TNV). It will be a little earlier with not as much backend as it was brand new which you seem to like. Due the hot water bath every 50 games or so and that ball will run for awhile. Just remember to take the coverstock back to where you had it.
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mastergunner

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2008, 09:19:32 AM »
Gazoo what do you mean by take it back to stock after roil extraction? Can you give a little more detail. Thanks.

srlunatic

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2008, 11:18:04 AM »
I must have been lucky as my TNV had over 1000 games on it and no ball death..

My friend is throwing it now and loving it....My Cell Pearl finally replaced my TNV in my arsenal
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dizzyfugu

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2008, 11:22:30 AM »
quote:
Gazoo what do you mean by take it back to stock after roil extraction? Can you give a little more detail. Thanks.


Just doing an oil extraction is only half the job. Best way to enhance performance is to refresh the surface, and to come as close to the reaction you were used to just check the ball's original finish and replicate it.
As Gazoo mentioned, a green pad base with polish will, by tendency, yield a more arcing reaction than a 4.000 Abralon base. While a surface grit change is nothing wrong and can be the ticket if you want to alter the ball's reaction a bit, stay with the OOB finish to check the ball's performance after a revival session.
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mastergunner

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2008, 12:42:29 PM »
What is OOB?



quote:
quote:
Gazoo what do you mean by take it back to stock after roil extraction? Can you give a little more detail. Thanks.


Just doing an oil extraction is only half the job. Best way to enhance performance is to refresh the surface, and to come as close to the reaction you were used to just check the ball's original finish and replicate it.
As Gazoo mentioned, a green pad base with polish will, by tendency, yield a more arcing reaction than a 4.000 Abralon base. While a surface grit change is nothing wrong and can be the ticket if you want to alter the ball's reaction a bit, stay with the OOB finish to check the ball's performance after a revival session.
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luvtobowl2

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2008, 01:05:08 PM »
Matergunner,

OOB is "out of box" coverstock condition.
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Gazoo

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2008, 03:33:18 PM »
quote:
Gazoo what do you mean by take it back to stock after roil extraction? Can you give a little more detail. Thanks.


mastergunner,

We will use the TNV here as a example. It came from the factory at 4000grit abralon with what is now called Powerhouse factory finish polish. After a period of use all coverstock end up at about 600grit which in and of of itself will make the ball react less than it did when new. Ebonite coverstocks have an higher oil absorbtion rate than others which increase this loss of reaction. So oil extraction needs to be done.(hot water bath is very simple method but there are many methods) After this is done, alot of bowlers bring the ball back to the lanes and still see a loss of reaction beacause 600grit ball is not going to react like a 4000grit polished ball. If you put polish on it as floater163 did after using a green pad(still 600grit) you will get more reaction but still not like it did at 4000grit with polish which is what it was when you first bought it unless you changed the surface. To clarify, after oil extraction, always take the ball back to the grit level and polish if using,  that you were using when you liked the reaction or the reaction is never going to be similar.
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Edited on 10/30/2008 3:38 PM

Edited on 10/30/2008 3:40 PM

floater163

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #11 on: October 31, 2008, 08:38:33 AM »
Gazoo - Is there a way for me to get to 4000 grit by hand?  I do like my current reaction of 600 grit as you say but would like to open up the possibility of trying other things.  Thanks for the input.

Gazoo

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #12 on: October 31, 2008, 08:52:35 AM »
quote:
Gazoo - Is there a way for me to get to 4000 grit by hand?  I do like my current reaction of 600 grit as you say but would like to open up the possibility of trying other things.  Thanks for the input.


Spinner is highly recommended here as this is more difficult to due by hand with the amount of hand pressure being used. You need abralon pads, 500grit,1000grit,2000grit,4000grit. Start at 500, due the entire ball then move to 1000, then 2000, then 4000, then apply polish. Might want to send a PM to member Charlest who is very knowledgeable with coverstock prep and might be able to get you there with scotchbrite pads which is better to due by hand. Good Luck!
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dizzyfugu

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Re: TNV Revival
« Reply #13 on: October 31, 2008, 08:56:55 AM »
Yup, spinner is highly recommended. While you CAN do sanding by hand (e. g. in your kitchen sink under flowing tap water), it is not easy to achieve an even finish, and you can IMHO not apply as much and as consistent pressure as with a spinner. The same goes for polish - you CAN do it by hand, but this is an even more tedious task... In this case, better invest $5 in some pro shop service aftee the oil extraction at home.
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