Both replies are absolutely correct. These are simple balls with a smmetrical core, and AFAIK they have a low differential. Label setups were standard at the urethane Hammers' time, and it complements the arcing nature of these balls well. Additionally, you will certainly have a small pin distance of 0-2", so a strong label layout is a good choice for this ball. I have one drilled up this way, and most of its recation comes from the surface prep. The core just gets it into a roll, but overall I hardly doubt that you can actually tune an old Hammer ball with a sophisticated layout.

 

IMHO: drill it label, and adjust the surface as needed, and do not hesitate to open up the cover. Length is not an issue with the hard, non-porous cover, so mechanical traction in the mid lane area is key.

DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
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I use my hammer primarily for training as well.  Mainly, it's to help me train to be more constant on speed and release. I used the blue hammer subbed the other night and I left the ring 7 or blower 10's most of the first two games.  It was tough to compete with the guys with the reactive balls because of the energy their balls retained.  I do have to admit I forgot to make the subtle moves necessary when using urethane or plastic.  Finally, I went back to resin because the hammer needed the bowler to precise and I was just off a hair and that was enough.  I ended up using a troad pearl I set up for the nationals at 2k matte.  I was standing thirty and getting it to about 10 at the break and I was still creeping high but I could carry.   If I could have play straight with the blue hammer I would have had a chance.  I am not complaining though.  I love the blue hammer.  I just wanted to use it against the guys using the resins balls.  If there was just a pinch more oil I could have made it tough on them. 

 

The new blue hammer with the vibe core could solve the carry problem.