Check out this video...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mSFeiHarXY
in the 6 - 9 second mark there is a Photo of the drill sheetnot very clear, but it is there. Also there is a review of this ball on 123bowl from bill from buddies proshop, he ended up putting a modern drilling on the ball. I pasted his review here   

I found this ball at one of our warehouses and I wondered what this old asymmetrical ball would do with today's asymmetrical layouts. I laid the ball out with the CG as the pin, because these balls only had a locator pin. I used the determinator to find the mass bias on this ball. I put the cg 5 inches from my PAP and the Mass Bias 4 1/2 inches from my PAP (Positive Axis Point). I went over this ball with 400 grit then polished the ball with 3m Rubbing Compound.


I threw this ball on a house shot that is dry. The shot was extremely dry on the outside with heavier oil in the middle. I shot 660 for the night, but this was more of an experiment for me. I wanted to see what today's layout would do in an older ball. I am amazed at how good a ball this ball is with modern layouts. I have done this with a couple of other balls and all have rolled well. I think that past asymmetrical balls could be good with a modern reactive coverstock. I wish that more companies would bring back


hope this helps,

Brad

I have information on this ball, a bunch of them surfaced from basement NIB a few years ago. The inventor may have been from the Cleveland area.  It will take some looking but I'll see if I can find it.

Thank you very much!

Check out this video...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mSFeiHarXY
in the 6 - 9 second mark there is a Photo of the drill sheetnot very clear, but it is there. Also there is a review of this ball on 123bowl from bill from buddies proshop, he ended up putting a modern drilling on the ball. I pasted his review here 

I did see the Youtube video and took a screen shot of the drill sheet at the beginning of the video, but when you expand it, it's just blurry.

Thank you for posting the review, I bought the ball in search of something to use on a burned up house shot and because I like to experiment with surfaces and a range of equipment to see what works for me and what doesn't. At the moment, my go-to when I'm not having any luck moving left with modern-day stuff is a Fab Black Hammer that resurfaced and left at 4000. I use it as a spare ball, but it comes in handy to use as a strike ball under torched conditions. I've put up some decent games throwing up 5 under these circumstances.

I have the sheet, is it possible to post a picture? If not message me your email and ill send it

And I thought I was old school playing down the twig with my Faball Blue Pearl Hammer! I had an Axe once but gave it to a friend before I plugged and redrilled it. Thanks for taking us back into the vaults!

These were balls from John P Fabanich which was where the JPF initials came from. Fabanich was from the Cleveland, OH area so these balls became popular in the Central and Northern Ohio areas. Fabanich developed the original Hammer and is the Fab in Faball. I do not know what happened to him in the Hammer era in the early to late 80's or if he just sold his interest to the fellows in St. Louis which was Faball headquarters.

The weight block looked like it had a cone sticking out of the side that would be near the axis of the ball. The intent was to be able to drill a ball over the label to have an axis-weighted type of ball reaction. If a pro shop had the players positive axis point, it could be fine tuned even more to put the cone on the players true axis. Back then axis-weighting a ball gave it a smoother/controllable reaction. This type of layout rolled well during that era especially on lanes that were dressed with LDD or Short Oil as many referred to the lane conditions back then.

They also had a RH or LH on them. The RH ones had a locater pin on the right side of the ball inside the serial number while the left had the serial number/locater pin on the left side of the ball. The locator pin was where the center of the "cone" was located and it was supposed to go on your axis to simulate an axis weighted reaction with only a slight shift of the label so as to only need a weight hole to tweak or add reaction.

Back then weight holes only gave you slightly more reaction. The information like now with moving the PSA with a properly placed weight hole was not available until the Brunswick Phantoms came out and those drilling instructions confused many old timers when it came out around late 1990/early 1991.

Different way to lay out balls back then. Axis weight and leverage were "exotic" drillings and putting the locator pin (if it was marked, many were not) at 1:30 to 3:00 were most popular layout options in those days.