This one: http://www.123bowl.com/ball.cfm?ballid=282?

You can try emailing Jason Wonders at Visionary to see if he has the stats.  I've done this with him and the old Faballs in the past, and while he's always quick to respond, he usually tells me all he could find were things like "low" and "high". 

My guess is the ball will give you a smooth roll and be good on the light to mediums.  I have an old Norm Duke Signature Hammer -- a polished solid with a weak cover wrapped around a lightbulb core -- and it's a great ball for playing down the twig.

A little more info from former Director of Player Services for the PBA, Larry Lichstein...

http://www.ballreviews.com/faball/lichsteins-1995-ball-guide-t257156.0.html

The ball is actually just the Red Hammer...the urethane one...I knew it might be but I was kinda hoping that the ebay listing just didn't take A pic of the big r on the cover...But I would have bought the ball anyways because it was a "blem" with a 7-8- inch pin. I figured if it was the reactive one I could drill it for extreme length which will help on the drier shot I experienced the first night of league night--and if the urethane one, then I could drill it with the pin waaay outside of my ring finger to create a little bit of reaction down the lane , and then just adjust the cover to get the ideal length and overall movement for me.

I knew that hammer came late to the reactive party, but I didn't realize that by 1994 which is the date this ball was made, that hammer was still putting out the urethanes also.  I know back then every companies balls were low grit on the covers compared to the balls of today, but does anyone have a close approximation to what grit the red hammer cover is at just so I know where I am starting at before I put in on the spinner(once I recover  better from my gallbladder surgery of course)?

Brad