I had the original Taboo drilled pin above the bridge, cg kicked out a tad, and MB close to the right of the thumb. Loved it. Got the Jet Black, drilled that identical, loved it. Then the JB started to die a bit, put it in the revivour oven, resurfaced it and still doesn't hook as it did before, but its still manageable. I bought the blue/silver because of how i liked the other Taboos. I wanted to drill this different, so went with the pin to the right of the fingers, MB in the track (high track). Its Hammer's #4 drilling i believe. Hate this thing right now. So over under and leaves corner pins so much. I tried taking the surface to 2000, still not liking it. Any suggestions for this? 

I have a ball drilled similar and it is very susceptible to release changes.  If I am consistent, the ball is consistent.  If not, it sucks. 

My suggestion is to redrill to something you are comfortable with. 

The B/S is a strong ball and putting the MB in the track makes it weak.  If you wanted a weak ball, get a weak ball.  Only buy a strong ball if you want a strong ball.  Leave the wacky drillings to the pros.

I didn't want a weak ball...i just didn't want to drill all 3 taboos the same because i didn't see a big difference in the original and blue silver, besides a little bit more length. I wanted to try something different, and didn't think that was a wacky drilling if it was one that Hammer recommends

I'm not a fan of re-drilling newer balls like this. I haven't gave it much time yet, i'm going to full around with the surface before i totally give up on it. Its at 2000 now, might put some polish on it for my league tomorrow and see if its more controllable. I'm not worried about how much it hooks, ill play down and in if it works the best

If I might make a comment or two ...

1. I could not believe that Hammer actually recommended putting the MB in the track, so I checked their drillings, and you are right. They did.

2. Doing that  can make a big difference or a little difference depending on your release and delivery stats. In general, it increases length and reduces the backend. Basically you made the ball useful on much less oil than that for which it is/was designed. Small wonder it was over/under.  I'd try to use it on medium oil, not the heavy oil for which it was designed. The extra dry will help it get into a roll earlier and reduce the O/U ball reaction.

May I suggest learning the Dual angle method of drilling asymmetric cored balls? It really works and is well worth the effort to understand, especially if you like asymmetric cored balls. Take a short trip over to BowlingChat.Net and visit the Mo Pinel forum. I am not a huge fan of Mr. Pinel but when his ideas work, they really work well. . 

I hope I can help here. I agree with spmcgivern, learning the dual angle system can give you an idea of what the ball should do before you even punch it. I have done my best to teach all interested customers this system so that they can understand what layouts do and when to use them.

My question to you is do you have high ball speed or a low rev rate?

the first angle in a dual angle layout measures the angle between the mass bias and your PAP. The simplified way to explain what this angle does is as follows. A larger angle will allow the ball to rev up later, and a smaller angle will make the ball rev up sooner.

the second angle is the angle between your pin and VAL. this essentially determines the over all shape of the ball. IE, a small angle will allow the ball to go further down the lane and retain energy to have a stronger motion down lane. The opposite can be seen in a large second angle, like in a pin down ball. This will create an earlier rolling layout that will begin moving more in the mid lane and roll off of the spot sooner/ more of an arc shape.

pin to pap distance determines flare potential.

If you throw the ball on the faster side, the ball may be reading the lane too late due to the mb being in the track area. if the mb were to be moved to the right of the thumb, you would see the ball reading earlier, and this would allow the ball to build energy properly. I believe the key to creating a great rolling ball is by making sure the ball revs up how the customer wants in the mid lane. Later for more of a skid snap/earlier for a stronger motion-strong arc.

Again, this is just my opinion. I think that if you moved the MB to the right of the thumb and kept the pin in the same position it is now, then you will have the kind of roll you will like the best. If not, enjoy having a ball that will allow you to play further right than you normally can.

Hope this helps.