Bought an Emerald VIBE from a friend of mine.  The drilling has the pin above the bridge and the CG is swung out right ( I am a right hander ) with no x-hole. I don't know any of the box specs on the ball, but it is about a 3inch pin-out. By my other stuff, close to a 5 X 3 for me.

 Ball is surprisingly strong.  Goes really long and recovers "on-a-dime".

  I'm going to have to plug either the fingers or thumb for a span change. Didn't want to have to plug the whole ball if I didn't have to.  I think before I did that, I would just get a NIB and drill it differently.

  Any help, advice, suggestions would be appreciated.
--------------------
Norm Duke was right

Good transactions list in my profile

My Bowl.com member page

I'm a little confused on how to reply... What is the question you are asking?
--------------------
My Arsenal:
Bounty(4.5 x 4.75 Fresh 1000 Abralon)
Twisted Fury(5 x 4 500 Abralon + Reacta Shine)
Raw Hammer Pain(Leverage 1000 Abralon)
Blue Vibe(5 x 5 4000 Abralon + Reacta Shine)

Sorry for the confusion guys.  What I am going to have to do is plug SOMETHING, either the thumb or the fingers, to adjust the span for proper fit.

  What I was asking is this. Since I am going to be plugging PART of the ball anyway, would it be possible to leave the drilling as it is ( 5 X 3 ) and tame it with an X-hole and surface, or, would I have to completely plug the ball and redrill it in a completely different configuration to tame it down much?

  This video from buddiesproshop show a ball drilled like mine ( except this one has an X-hole in it ).  Mine seems to be longer and sharper by quite a bit, but played on the same targeting as this one was. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfcFY5AfzUo

  What the ball does now isn't horrible, just very lengthy and very sharp flip, that gets violent after the lanes start breaking down.


  The reason I asked this way is, before I would do a complete plug and reconfigure ( if that is what it would take to calm it down much ), I would just adjust the span on this one ( leaving it at 5 X 3 ) and get another NIB to drill with the tamer configuration.

  Hope this helps clear up my question.  I like the ball, just didn't think it would be THIS long or THIS sharp.
--------------------
Norm Duke was right

Good transactions list in my profile

My Bowl.com member page





Edited on 1/18/2009 11:55 AM

If the cg is swung way right and has no weight hole, how does that ball stay legal?  It must mean that the top weight is pretty low.  What you need to do is:

1. Plug the thumb hole to correct the span
2. FIRST adjust the cover 2 take shine off and see if that works for you.
3.  If not, then put a weight hole which should smoothen out the reaction.

If none of those things works for you, plug and redrill and drill a layout designed for a smoother backend.
--------------------
Steven Vance
Pro Shop Operator
Striking Results Pro Shop
Red Carpet Lanes
Duluth (NE Atlanta), Georgia

If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!

The Emerald is a ball that can be tweaked to really dial in the reaction.

I took a 2000 abralon pad to mine, and it really smoothed out the ball greatly.
--------------------
Nothing Hit's Like A Hammer

Edited on 1/18/2009 8:19 PM

Thanks for the replies guys.

quote:

---

I have nothing special to add except an order changes.
1. Try 4000 matte finish first.
2. If #1 doesn't work, then add a weight hole to increase flare. It'll make the ball hook earlier in the midlane smoothing out the snap to some degree.
3. If #2 doesn't work, then try 2000 Abralon matte finish, if the other steps are not enough. P2000 grit will make it earlier and require more oil or moving left/deeper. It might change the characteistics for which you bought the ball.
3B. You can also try P2000 grit or P1500 grit plus light, non-abrasive polish. This is still rougher under the polish than the stock P4000 grit and will grab the midlane earlier, but not as early as P2000 matte finish.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

---

  Was thinking the same direction as 1 and 2 above, especially 2. Thought if I started the flare earlier in the oil, it might smooth out the backend reaction some.

  Also, forgive me a "DUH" type question, but what exactly is P2000?  I have access to abralon, but I get the impression you are meaning something else because you refer to abralon specifically when talking about it.
--------------------
Norm Duke was right

Good transactions list in my profile

My Bowl.com member page