Author Topic: hammer bwp problem (Read 5352 times)

Nicholskid04 · « **on:** October 31, 2008, 07:16:57 PM »

I recently posted that i hate my BWP, well comes to find out it was full of oil, i've had it in the oven cleanin it ever 5min at under 200degrees, and its been leaking oil constantly for over an hour, with no cracks are nothing, do you guysy think that this is all was wrong with the ball not hooking

Nicholskid04 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 01, 2008, 09:55:45 PM »

are you saying thats good or bzd

charlest · « **Reply #17 on:** November 01, 2008, 09:57:00 PM »

quote:
I wouldn't ssuggest to bake that ball in the oven. I agree with Fatboy. Let the ball soak in a 5 gal. pail of hot water a few times. Baking a ball to get the oil out is asking for trouble in a home oven. These covers are sensitive to heat and cold. Balls will crack in your trunk or SUV in the summer and temps only gat as high as 140 degress. Hot water bathing and cleaning with a good ball cleaner is the best home cleaning regieme. Other than that take it to your pro shop and have them clean it .
--------------------
Nothing Hit's Like A Hammer
Hammer Team Member
Hammer Message Board Moderator
www.hammerbowling.com
www.hammerstuff.com

From what I have heard/learned,
it's not that the cover is sensitive. It's that the coverstock and the core are made of two very different materials. They expand and contract at different rates. This is very like the bi-metal bar that controls thermostats and temperature gauges. Visualize the picture of the core expanding faster than the coverstock - something's gotta give. Usually it's the coverstock.

That's why bowling balls should only be baked under the most controlled of circumstances like with a Revivor oven, made by Innovative (I think they are the manufacturer.) or the Rejuvenator oven. They are low temperature and they rotate the ball for eve coverage like a rotisserie.

Most household ovens, even at the very lowest settings, cannot control the temperature well enough and safely enough to keep it 140-150 degrees or less.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

charlest · « **Reply #18 on:** November 01, 2008, 09:58:25 PM »

quote:
are you saying thats good or bzd

Nicholskid04,

Please quote whoever you are referring to or use their name. That way the right person can respond and we all know what you're talking about.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 11/1/2008 9:58 PM

sunsetlefty · « **Reply #19 on:** November 01, 2008, 10:26:59 PM »

charlest,

I have the Revivor Oven in my shop and use it quite a lot. Yes, it is manufactured by Innovative Bowling.

You are correct in your description of how the Revivor Oven works. The Revivor Oven has a controlled temperature unit that allows up to 2 balls to be safely warmed up to 140 degrees. An internal motorized roller system for up to 2 balls rotates each ball and promotes a more even temperature during the 'baking cycle'.

I have never had a customers' ball crack during this process, nor have I ever had a customer tell me that the revival did not work. I ask every customer for their honest feedback, and all are very positive.

The only thing that does puzzle me is that once in a while, a ball will not exhibit any oil removal. For instance, I have removed oil from an Ebonite The One and had it bleed oil for 2 hours straight. I have also had another The One exhibit no oil removal, even though the ball obviously needed some TLC.

This may have to do with the 140 degree temperature. It may be that this is right at the threshold of oil removal. It may also be very near the threshold of plastizer removal.

I have no knowledge of the Rejuvenator Oven, sold by Jayhawk Bowling Supply. I would be interested in comments from anyone who has used this oven!

--------------------
Gary Palma
X-act Reaction pro shop at Ideal Lanes
PBA Member
2008 Hammer Staff Member

chitown · « **Reply #20 on:** November 01, 2008, 11:23:05 PM »

quote:
charlest,

I have the Revivor Oven in my shop and use it quite a lot. Yes, it is manufactured by Innovative Bowling.

You are correct in your description of how the Revivor Oven works. The Revivor Oven has a controlled temperature unit that allows up to 2 balls to be safely warmed up to 140 degrees. An internal motorized roller system for up to 2 balls rotates each ball and promotes a more even temperature during the 'baking cycle'.

I have never had a customers' ball crack during this process, nor have I ever had a customer tell me that the revival did not work. I ask every customer for their honest feedback, and all are very positive.

The only thing that does puzzle me is that once in a while, a ball will not exhibit any oil removal. For instance, I have removed oil from an Ebonite The One and had it bleed oil for 2 hours straight. I have also had another The One exhibit no oil removal, even though the ball obviously needed some TLC.

This may have to do with the 140 degree temperature. It may be that this is right at the threshold of oil removal. It may also be very near the threshold of plastizer removal.

I have no knowledge of the Rejuvenator Oven, sold by Jayhawk Bowling Supply. I would be interested in comments from anyone who has used this oven!

--------------------
Gary Palma
X-act Reaction pro shop at Ideal Lanes
PBA Member
2008 Hammer Staff Member

The only thing I can possibly think of that would cause a ball to not leak oil during the rejuvenator process, is the coverstock has possibly been plugged up with polish or a wax, from lets say a luster king machine or something along those lines? I've heard that when someone uses wax in replace of polish that the pores in the coverstock become plugged.

Who knows, that's a tough one to answer.

How much does a rejuvenator cost?

I've only used the hot water bath method and it's giving me excellent results. I don't just put hot water in a bucket and let the ball soak. I place the ball into a bucket and set it under my bath tub faucet. I run the hot water until my hot water tank turns cold. Then just wipe the ball off and it's good to go. Placing the ball into a bucket and letting the hot water run continuously, allows the oil to float to the surface and run out, over the top of the bucket and into the drain. This way fresh hot water is continuously going into the bucket. I do this every 50 games or so with great results.

I've had better results using the above method rather than just placing a ball into a bucket of hot water and letting it soak.

Nicholskid04 · « **Reply #21 on:** November 02, 2008, 01:06:48 AM »

that dont really help me, i wanna know what they do to a ball when i bake it basicallly thanks though!

Nicholskid04 · « **Reply #22 on:** November 02, 2008, 01:08:43 AM »

my message was for charlest, as in is it good or bad about the plastizers

Nicholskid04 · « **Reply #23 on:** November 02, 2008, 01:16:41 AM »

that dont really help me, i wanna know what they do to a ball when i bake it basicallly thanks though!

leftyinsnellville · « **Reply #24 on:** November 02, 2008, 04:20:23 AM »

Don't bake your balls! It's too risky. Some balls can handle highish temps, some can't. There are too many easy ways to extract oil that won't get your ball temp up so high. (My oven's minimum setting is 170 degrees.) I personally found the dishwasher to be the best home oil extraction method available. Heats the balls up and has a constant spray of water washing the oil away. My balls always come out squeaky clean.

I used to be concerned about water spraying into the thumb and fingerholes, so now after I drill a ball I put ball filler in the bottom of the thumbhole (I use thumbslugs) and to coat the inside of the fingerholes.
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220...221...whatever it takes.

Nicholskid04 · « **Reply #25 on:** November 02, 2008, 11:46:06 AM »

ah i c, i understand the hot water, and the dishwasher method, but as i stated before my water has cracked 2 of my balls, apparantly it gets to hot

JD74 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 02, 2008, 02:38:28 PM »

quote:
ah i c, i understand the hot water, and the dishwasher method, but as i stated before my water has cracked 2 of my balls, apparantly it gets to hot

Make sure you have a guard on your water heater and its set so that the water only goes up to around 120 I think was the suggested amount. I do mine that was all the time (hot water bath).
--------------------
Lefty
480 rpms
300
800(1)
Average 220+

http://ebonite.com/
BOWL TO WIN!

Nicholskid04 · « **Reply #27 on:** November 02, 2008, 02:55:43 PM »

ah good point lol, i remember turnin it up so that the dishes would clean better adn the clothes, i forgot til you just said something thank you

Kid Jete · « **Reply #28 on:** November 02, 2008, 02:59:52 PM »

Nothing is stopping you from turning on the cold side just a bit lol.

Nicholskid04 · « **Reply #29 on:** November 03, 2008, 09:47:37 AM »

I still hate the ball, ended up using my el nino 2002 with over 200 games on it never resurfaced and ended up nice, so im a gettin rid of this ball, and no offense to hammer lovers but I will stick to my lane1 and storm

Author Topic: hammer bwp problem (Read 5352 times)

Nicholskid04

hammer bwp problem

Nicholskid04

Re: hammer bwp problem

charlest

Re: hammer bwp problem

charlest

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sunsetlefty

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chitown

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Nicholskid04

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Nicholskid04

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Nicholskid04

Re: hammer bwp problem

leftyinsnellville

Re: hammer bwp problem

Nicholskid04

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JD74

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Nicholskid04

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Kid Jete

Re: hammer bwp problem

Nicholskid04

Re: hammer bwp problem